• Contact
  • Elaborations
    • A Policeman’s View
    • Driving School Diary
    • Great Danes
    • IVA charged on Tassa Rifiuti
    • Nana
    • Old trains and Old weekends
    • The peasant, the virgin, the spring and the ikon
    • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland??
  • Recipes
    • ‘Mbriulata
    • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
    • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
    • *Cherry Tart*
    • *Crimson Pie*
    • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
    • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana* – Eggplant Parmesan
    • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
    • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
    • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
    • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
    • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast* on the rotisserie
    • *Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup*
    • *Spezzatino di Vitello*
    • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
    • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
    • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
    • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
    • *Tzatziki*
    • 10th Tee Apricot Bars
    • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
    • Artichoke Parmigiano Dip
    • Best Brownies in the World
    • Clafoutis
    • Cod the Way Sniven Likes It
    • Cold Cucumber Soup
    • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
    • Easy spring or summer pasta
    • Fagioli all’ucelleto
    • Fish in the Ligurian Style
    • Hilary’s Spicy Rain Forest Chop
    • Insalata Caprese
    • Kumquat and Cherry Upside Down Cake
    • Lasagna Al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
    • Lemon Meringue Pie
    • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
    • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
    • Louis’s Apricot Chutney
    • Mom’s Sicilian Bruschetta
    • No-Knead Bread (almost)
    • Nonna Salamone’s Famous Christmas Cookies
    • Pan-fried Noodles, with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
    • Pesto
    • Pesto
    • Pickle Relish
    • Poached Pears
    • Polenta Cuncia
    • Pumpkin Sformato with Fonduta and Frisee
    • Rustic Hearth Bread
    • Sicilian Salad
    • Soused Hog’s Face
    • Spotted Dick
    • Swedish Tea Wreaths
    • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
    • Tomato Aspic
    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
    • Winter Squash or Pumpkin Gratin
    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Monthly Archives: November 2008

Mail Shock

29 Saturday Nov 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian habits and customs, Italy, Uncategorized

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Italian mail service, junk mail, posta, posta italiana

In July a friend sent us, in Italy, a CD of photographs he had taken during his visit the month before.  In August he received notification that he had not filled out the customs form in a manner satisfactory to the Italian authorities (evidently ‘CD Photos’ was not specific enough).  In early October the CD arrived back at his home in Maryland, having enjoyed two Atlantic crossings.  In November we received it here in Arizona, thanks to the always-reliable US Postal Service and a helpful friend.

stamp_italian_medThe Italian mail service is a puzzle to us.  As previously noted, the Post Office serves as an immigration office, bill-paying office and bank as well as a mover of mail pieces, so that complicates everything.  And, in fact, mail service in Italy has improved dramatically in just the few years we’ve lived there.  Depending on the time of year and the type of mail sent, something sent from Italy can actually arrive in the US in five days, and vice versa.  “Depending” is the operative word, however.  Our absentee ballots for the presidential election were sent twice from Arizona.  The first mailing arrived four weeks after being sent, the second arrived on Nov. 5th.  Perhaps the larger size of the envelopes held things up.  A simple letter or post card will move quickly, if it’s not August or December. Anything outside that norm will take much longer and will likely have been opened and mulled over by mysterious postal functionaries before being sent on.

The historical unreliability of the postal service has kept its usage to a minimum.  Mail order of anything is in its infancy in Italy.  Amazon, for instance, has no Italian presence though it is big in Great Britain, Japan, Austria, Spain, Germany, China, etc.  China, for heaven’s sake, but not Italy.

The shock, though, was to come back to the States this year and begin picking up our daily mail.  What a roosevelt1stampsea of nonsense and waste!  Newspapers and flyers we don’t want, ads for things we’ve never heard of, pleas for money from unknown agencies, offers for health insurance, medical care, legal counsel and catalogs – who dreams up all those catalogs? – it all surges into our little post box in waves.  And as quickly as it arrives it is sent to the recycle bin whence it will, presumably, become what it was from the get-go: toilet paper.

Perhaps somewhere there is a happy medium, something between the tsunami of junk that washes up on our Arizona shores daily, in which a friend’s actual hand-addressed envelope was almost lost,  and the barren desert of Italian mail which arrives once or twice a week and contains only the alarming statements of mortgage rate increases the bank sends monthly, startling bills from the water company or irritating offers from the despicable Sky television (how many soccer stations does one household need??).  I would like to live in that unknown place, or at least take a look at their commemorative stamps.

The Best Thing We Ate This Week – Pizzoccheri della Valtellina

25 Tuesday Nov 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Food, Italian recipes, Uncategorized

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

Pizzoccheri della Valtellina

img_70661

The night before we left Italy our friends Elena and Michela gave us dinner.  Pictured above is the Pizzoccheri della Valtellina (pronounced peets-och’-air-eee della Vahl’-tell-ee’-nah) that Elena prepared.  I had never heard of this dish, but judging from the number of recipes on the internet it must be rather well-known.  It is one of the best cold-weather dishes I’ve ever eaten.  The first thing you will have noticed is that the pasta is not white; it is a buckwheat pasta (the pizzoccheri of the dish’s name), which is readily available in Italy.  It may not be so easy to find where you are, but it is easy to make, as you will see from the recipe over on the right.  This is a dish open to infinite variety depending on your taste, what you’ve got on hand or what’s in season.  Elena made hers with spinach, but you may use many different greens.  I have chosen the recipe that best seems to match what Elena gave us, but you may want a different one – there are a bunch of choices. But if you want to try Elena’s, click here or over on the right under Recipes.

Culture Shock X 2

22 Saturday Nov 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Customs, Italian habits and customs, Italy, Law and order, Photographs, Travel

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

culture shock, German habits and customs, Lufthansa, Mainz Germany

You know the old joke: In heaven the French are the cooks, the Italians are the lovers, the Germans are the engineers, and the English are the diplomats; in hell the Germans are the lovers, the English are the cooks, the Italians are the engineers and the French are the diplomats.  Flying from Italy to spend a couple of nights in historic Mainz, Germany on the banks of the Rhine made us think of that.

Our first indication that we were in the Land of Precision was the airplane trip itself.  We had a 20-minute connection in Munich to catch a flight to Frankfurt.  Lufthansa had a van waiting for us when our first flight ended which whisked us to the other side of the airfield and our second flight.  Amazing.  Meanwhile, in Rome a friend was enduring a 5-hour delay for his Alitalia flight and, needless to say, he missed all his ensuing connections.  We can only say that if you have the choice between Lufthansa and other carriers, you won’t regret choosing the former.

Some things were remarkably similar, for instance, the market, where only the mittens and heavy jackets told us we were no longer on the Riviera:

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Mittens, jackets, and, oh jawohl! the background:

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That is the Dom, the great central cathedral of old Mainz.

The good burghers live on the other side of the platz:

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When we left Rapallo the Christmas lights were just being strung across the streets and wound around the palm trees.  In Mainz, too, Christmas was definitely in the air:

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Big trees like the one behind this fountain were being placed in all the main squares.  And what says “Christmas” in Germany more than this?

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Good as the Italians are at most things culinary, they have not yet mastered the gingerbread house, or, for that matter, the angry Santa.  What is wrong with him?? Must be those pesky elves misbehaving again.

Speaking of gingerbread, you don’t see many houses like this in Italy:

img_7105

But above all, the culture shock of being in Germany was the cleanliness and order that was all around. Italians are more casual about such things.  What exemplified it best for us was the difference in airport trash receptacles.  In the Genova airport they are here and there, and on the floor around them is evidence of well-intentioned but careless effort.  In the Frankfurt airport on the other hand, the trash receptacles look like this:

img_7153

They are almost frightening.

Part Two of culture shock was arriving at the Dallas/Fort Worth Airport in Texas. We flew on American Airlines which was comfortable, on time, and staffed with very pleasant flight attendants.  America!  We were honest citizens and, on the customs form, said Yes to the question, ‘are you bringing food with you.’  Our punishment was to be sent to the Agriculture Inspection Area where a long line awaited processing.  Fortunately a kindly inspector took pity on us, quizzed us on our cheese and olive oil, and let us through.  A few years ago I brought a cat into Italy with nary a glance from the customs officers to whom I tried to introduce him at the Milano airport.  So, Officials and Inspections and Security, all on a level a bit above that we’ve grown accustomed to.  (On the other hand, no one holds a candle to Italians when it comes to plain old bureaucracy.)

Then there’s size.  Everything seems huge in America when one is accustomed to Italian scale.  Beginning with the large people, and moving right along to the large automobiles, roads and houses which accommodate them.  It’s a change of scale that takes one’s breath away.

We’re in Arizona now, and will be for a few months, having traded a sea of water for one of sand.  Oddly, though we’ve always been Americans, we feel a bit like expatriots in our own country now; perhaps we’ve been living away too long.  Or perhaps this is just a first reaction, and after a week or two we’ll slip back into a more comfortable place. Just now being here feels like wearing shoes that don’t fit exactly right: some places are too loose, and others pinch too much. Rather like the shoes we wear in Italy.

Local Locutions

17 Monday Nov 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian habits and customs, Uncategorized

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Tags

Italian language, language

Listening to language is a dangerous hobby – you listen for accents, odd turns of phrase or expression, and all of a sudden realize you have forgotten to listen to what the other person is actually saying. We haven’t lived in many places, but it seems pretty obvious that every locale has its own small dictionary of special sounds, from the Canadian ‘eh’ to the the Texan ‘y’all’.

Here in Liguria we’ve identified several bits of sound language. The first, and probably most famous, is ‘boh,’ uttered on a short exhalation of breath with a slightly up intonation. It means, basically, “I don’t know, go figure!” and is said when you’ve run out of other things to say on a particular topic.

Another is not a discrete sound, but a charming way of saying yes. Instead of the hard, ‘si, si’, Genovese will say, ‘she, she.’ It’s a gentle agreement.

A sidebar to ‘si’ or ‘she’ as agreement is the ‘anh si, anh’ expression, said with an upnote on the final ‘anh’, as a question. It means, ‘yes, yes, I agree with you,’ perhaps slightly less emphatic than, ‘no kidding!’ and it leaves the door open for further comment (when is it ever closed in Italy??).

The Captain has encountered two very amusing language oddities on the golf course. The first is that though almost all golf terms are English, the shout of ‘Fore!’ for an errant ball is not used. Instead the ball striker shouts, “Whooooooaaaap!” The second is the Italian’s way to curse without cursing. ‘Belin’ is a very naughty, frequently used Italian version of ‘Damn it all.’ Literally it means, ‘Oh penis,’ which is pretty funny in and of itself. But the Gentlemen who play golf don’t want to cut a brutta figura by swearing, so instead they say, ‘Oh, belandi.’

My favorite, though, is almost impossible to express in writing. It also requires a fair amount of gymnastics to be used properly. It is said, more or less, like this: ‘heh ehh ehhh’ with each ‘eh’ getting slightly louder. The key, though, is that while you say it you have to both shrug and bend your elbows, raising your hands up and down a bit. This phrase is often used as an answer to a frustrated question which seemingly has no answer. It means, basically, ‘yeah, that’s a really good question, I haven’t the foggiest idea what the answer is and furthermore neither does anyone else, and anyway, there’s nothing any of us can do about any of it.’

Here are some sample conversations that might use the above sounds:

1. “That Berlusconi sure put his foot in his mouth, didn’t he?” “Boh!”

2. “She’s a beautiful young woman, don’t you think?” “Oh, she, she.”

3. “Rapallo was jammed with people today.” “anh si, anh?” “Yeah, the Lungomare was grid-locked.”

3. “I was three hours late for my meeting because of traffic jams. How can the Autostradas go on strike and cause all those problems??!” “heh, ehh, ehhh.”

Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha Ha redux

15 Saturday Nov 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Driving in Italy, Italy, Uncategorized

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

driving exam, driving practica

driving-exam-005Driving School is now 3 hours in the past and slipping farther away every minute and I’m standing on the shore waving.  Will I miss it?  Not one bit.  Did I make a far bigger deal of it than necessary?  No doubt!  But the idea of failure was daunting; once something becomes so large in the imagination it can take over one’s existence.  Just ask the Captain, who has put up with weeks of careful ‘practice driving,’  endless observations on others’ driving habits and the ‘codice stradale,’ and non-stop worry-chatter.  If ever you need a cheer-leader you will find none better.

Poor man – the last straw was at the end of afternoon errands; he announced firmly, “I’m driving.”  Fair enough, thought I, I don’t care if I ever drive again.  As we wound our way up the curvy hill to San Maurizio we came to a long line of cars trailing behind… a driving school car.  What were they doing there?  They never, but never, come up our hill because there’s no place legally to change one’s direction.  We limped along with the rest until the poor student driver found a wide place in the road where he could pull over and let us all pass.  That was the moment when I realized that it was truly over.

You can find more of the details over on the right at Driving School Diary, or by clicking here.

Permesso, Part the Third

13 Thursday Nov 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian habits and customs, Italy, Law and order, Uncategorized

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education in Italy, permesso di sogiorno, student demonstrations

In May and August I wrote about our efforts to renew our permessi di sogiorno, this time with 6-year permits (you can read about it here and here).  In addition to the phone call we received in August instructing the Captain to report to the Questura in Genova, we each got a letter telling us when to appear.  Unfortunately my date was yesterday, his today.  Sigh.

So yesterday we jumped in the Mini and tore off for Genova in the rain. We arrived a little early and were doing some window-shopping when suddenly we heard a great babble of voices, accompanied by police sirens.  We ran across a highway to catch sight of this:

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obama-table-003

obama-table-005

The students were on strike again yesterday!

There have been nationwide strikes since Prime Minister Berlusconi proposed and the Parliament passed a budget which contains massive cuts for education  (E 9 billion).  The elementary schools have been hardest hit with the new legislation as 130,000 jobs have been cut, but all schools will suffer, from primary through university.  You can read a bit more about it here.  Maria Stella, the name in the top photo (“Maria Stella, where are you?”), is the minister of education.

And what of the Permesso process?  We went to the United Nations waiting room again but there were only about 40 people this time.  My appointment was for 11:47 (yes, they’ve got it down to the minute!) and promptly at 12:15 my name was called with several others.  We reported to sportello #6 as instructed, and then had to wait another half hour or so, but this time with few chairs (why is it that in Italy if there are 3 chairs and 40 people who might want to sit down, mothers immediately put their small children in the chairs?  Is it the same in the States these days?  Back when I was a girl…. grumble, grumble, grumble…)

Part of the wait was due to the computers going down.  To his credit the police officer on the other side of the sportello’s glass was embarrassed – “It’s a shame,” he said in excellent English, “The Italian system is a shame.”  I don’t actually agree with that assessment, but it was nice he was so sympathetic to those who only stood and waited.

Finally at 12:35 I was called to the window and given two pieces of paper.  On one I had to print my full name; on the other I had to print my full name, phone number and e-mail address. Then I had to wait again.  The computers came back to life and I was summoned in my turn to show my passport and my present permesso, which expired some months ago. Then the big moment: Fingerprints!  They take them electronically now, and I was so looking forward to it.  Everyone before me got to leave all ten prints.  In my case, though, I gave only right thumb and index finger and then was told, “Basta!”  I don’t know if the machine broke again or if I simply look innocent (darn), but that was the end of the whole thing.  All that time and energy expended for two printed names and two fingerprints.  It is all a great puzzle.

The nice officer told me to visit the Questura web-site in 2-3 months and there I would find some information about my permesso.  I hope I remember to do it.  I hope I live that long!!

The Best Thing We Ate This Week – Risotto Bolognese

11 Tuesday Nov 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Food, Italian recipes, Rice, Uncategorized

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Bolognese sauce, Risotto

Actually it was last week, and, alas, there’s no photo of this delicious dish.  You will simply have to imagine a steaming bowl of slightly golden risotto, with a big dollop of meaty bolognese sauce nestled in the center, the whole topped with a light dusting of freshly grated parmigiano cheese.  Neither component is especially original, but the combination is something a bit more unusual. As I write the rain is beating against the windows and it is chilly outside.  Many parts of the US and of Italy are preparing for the cold dark months ahead; there’s no better winter comfort food than a perfectly cooked risotto. With the Bolognese sauce, a salad on the side and a good bottle of wine this dish will restore your good will and sense of well-being.

The Captain has always used Marcella Hazan’s recipe for bolognese, but a couple of times ago when he made it he discovered we had none of the called-for celery, so he simply made it without. We discovered we preferred it that way.  The celery announces itself with just a bit too much emphasis in a bolognese we think.

As for the risotto, try to find carnaroli rice; it is the best variety.  If you can not find it, use the best arborio you can find.

As mentioned in an earlier post, Arborio is the most ordinary-looking little farm town you can image.  I had always imagined a sweet little fancy village filled with restaurants.  No.  Here is Arborio:

autostrada-sostegno-autogrill-permesso-papers-076

As always, the recipes are over on the right (not above). Buon appetito!

A Pressing engagement – Olives, part 2

05 Wednesday Nov 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Food, Italian habits and customs, Italy, Liguria, Photographs, Uncategorized

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

frantoio, olive oil, pressing olive oil

Saturday, the day we took our olives to the press, was a gorgeous day. It turned out we had 99 Kilograms of fruit, not the 111 our funky scale told us (we weigh using the unreliable technique of standing on the scale with the olives, then without, then subtracting the difference; it’s kind of comical, especially the shocking ‘without olives’ part).  Mixing ours with T and J’s 75 K gave us a total of 174 K from which we got a total of 26 K of oil.  My trusty calculator tells me that almost 15% of each olive is oil.

We came home with 16.3 liters of oil, and T & J came home with 12.3, giving a remarkable liter of oil for every 6 K of olives picked, a very good result.  We were all happy except for T & J who had picked only half their trees.  Fortunately they were able to pick the rest the next day during a brief respite from the rain, and got them pressed with a batch of another friend at a different frantoio.

frantoio-and-church

The frantoio is in the teeny little building above, squished between San Pietro church and a building housing a delightful restaurant where we ate an enormous lunch (don’t even ask).  The olives are weighed, dumped in a chute, washed, and then disappear into a vast array of machinery with pipes, hoses, gears and belts.  Eventually one is told to put a container under a nozzle and, as they like to say here, Wah-Lah!  Olive oil, golden green and slightly bitter, arrives.

The bits that don’t come back to you as oil are pumped off into a big truck just outside the building.  All this muck is taken off to another kind of mill where it is heated and somehow even more oil is extracted.  What we received is the Virgin (or, I suppose, Extra Virgin) oil.  What is made from the leftover is ‘olive oil.’

Now the oil will sit in its demijohn for about 4 months.  Impurities will sink to the bottom, and somehow the bitterness will disappear and we’ll be left with the mellow, rich oil for which Liguria is justly famous.  It’s hard to wait!

There is a series of photographs of the process available here. Some of the photos look very hazy.  That is because the interior of a frantoio IS hazy – it must be from tiny particles of olive oil floating in the air.  They get into the back of your throat when you walk in and you wonder if you’ll be able to continue breathing.  It must be very good for the complexion.

So the Olive Adventure of ’08 is over.  Our trees will be pruned rather severely this winter, so it may be a year or two until we pick again – unless we can help our friends pick, which is always fun.  It was a Banner Year.

The Day After

05 Wednesday Nov 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Uncategorized

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

election joy

Having assiduously avoided using this blog as a forum for my political leanings, I must now say that, for the first time in a very long time, it feels great to be an American.  Yes, we can!!

Olives!

02 Sunday Nov 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Customs, Food, gardening, Italian habits and customs, Italy, Liguria, Uncategorized

≈ Leave a comment

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olive harvest, olives

‘Tis the season to be harvesting olives.  All around us the hills are festooned with colorful nets, principally orange and yellow.  They are wrapped around the trees and are attached one to the next making the steep terraces look like a brightly colored slopes.  The olives drop into pockets in the low parts of the nets, whence they are easily collected.

Our friends T and J have 51 trees which have been beautifully pruned and cared for.  They do not use nets, but instead hand-pick the olives, which is easy to do with their trees, none of which is much taller than we are.  The pruned and umbrella-shaped trees are much more productive than trees which are ‘let go.’

Our trees are in the latter category, very much in need of a pruning, which they will receive this winter.  They had been untended for at least 20 years when we bought our place.  Just after we moved in a friend sent a friend over who pruned some of the trees, but none of them very dramatically, and we’ve done nothing about it since.  This means the trees are huge.

We use a system that falls somewhere between the Old-Timers’ and T and J’s.  We have one net, which we carry from tree to tree (we have only about 15 trees).  Then we spend a very long time positioning poles to hold the net in place and form a bowl under the tree we’re working on.  There’s usually a fair amount of good-natured discussion about the placement of the poles, but eventually the net is positioned in a more or less stable way.  Then the Captain takes a long, thick bamboo stick and whacks the trees to make the fruit fall.  This is a time-honored way of removing fruit, but it’s fallen out of favor with modern olive-culturists.  The preferred method for removing fruit these days is the olive rake, a plastic rake with tines spaced just less than the average olive.  You attach the rake to the weapon of your choice (bamboo stick for us, this year as in photo) and comb out the branches.  The tines pull the olives off and send them spraying all over the place.  With luck a large percentage of them end up in the net.  The Captain alternates whacking with a stout stick and whacking with the rake on a long pole.  Meanwhile I use a rake on a small pole and wander around looking for low branches to strip.  I’m also crazy about finding olives on the ground and putting them in my basket – treasures!

This year the weather has not co-operated with many Ligurian harvesters.  We’ve had heavy rains and very strong winds, the heaviest since the great storm of 2000. A lot of olives have come down, and the weather for several days was just too nasty for gathering those that are still on trees.  Those who got their nets up in a timely fashion are doing very well (it’s a stand-out olive year).  Those who waited will have lost a lot of the crop unless, like me, they like to creep around on their hands and knees under the trees – not an efficient way to gather.

Once the olives are collected it’s good to get them to the mill, the ‘frantoio’, within three days.  Our favorite frantoio over the mountain in Val Fontanabuona went out of business while we weren’t looking last year (there was no olive harvest for anyone in Liguria last year – no olives). So instead yesterday we went to a different mill here in Rapallo.  Stay tuned for the report.  In past years we’ve gotten a liter of oil for each 7 or 8 kg of olives.  We had 111 kg this year (we also didn’t get all of our fruit picked before the weather turned on us).

If you’re really interested in olives, Mort Rosenblum has written a delightful book called ‘Olives’ and subtitled “The Life and Lore of a Noble Fruit,” which is stuffed with history, culture and even some recipes.  If you enjoy Life-in-Italy tales, Extra Virgin by the Englishwoman Annie Hawes is an engaging account of her purchase of a rustico and grove of olive trees above Imperia some twenty years ago; she writes appealingly and amusingly of her neighbors and of the land itself.

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A. Useful Links

  • bab.la language dictionary
  • Bus schedules for Tigullio
  • Conversions
  • English-Italian, Italian-English Dictionary
  • Expats Moving and Relocation Guide
  • Ferry Schedule Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino, San Frutuoso
  • Italian Verbs Conjugated
  • Piazza Cavour
  • Rapallo's Home Page – With Link to the Month's Events
  • Slow Travel
  • The Informer – The Online Guide to Living in Italy
  • Transportation Planner for Liguria
  • Trenitalia – trains! Still the most fun way to travel.

C. Elaborations

  • A Policeman’s View
  • Driving School Diary
  • IVA refunds due for past Rifiuti tax payements
  • Nana
  • Old trains and old weekends
  • The peasant, the Virgin, the spring and the ikon
  • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland?

D. Good Recipes - Best of the Week winners are starred

  • 'Mbriulata
  • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
  • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
  • *Crimson Pie*
  • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
  • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana*
  • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
  • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
  • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
  • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
  • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast*
  • *Spezzatini di Vitello*
  • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
  • *Stuffed Peaches (Pesche Ripiene)*
  • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
  • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
  • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
  • *Three P's Pasta*
  • *Tzatziki*
  • 10th Tee Oatmeal Apricot Bars
  • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
  • Aspic
  • Bagna-calda
  • Best Brownies in the World
  • Clafoutis
  • Cold cucumber soup
  • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
  • Easy spring or summer pasta
  • Fish in the Ligurian Style
  • Hilary's Spicy Rain Forest Chop
  • Insalata Caprese
  • Lasagna al forno
  • Lasagna al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
  • Lemon Meringue Pie
  • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
  • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
  • Louis’s apricot chutney
  • Mom's Sicilian Bruschetta
  • No-Knead (almost) Bread
  • Nonna Salamone's Christmas Cookies
  • Pan Fried Noodles with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
  • Pesto, the classic and original method
  • Pesto, the modern, less authentic method
  • Pickle Relish
  • Poached pears
  • Poached Pears
  • Polenta Cuncia
  • Recipes from Paradise by Fred Plotkin
  • Rustic Hearth Bread
  • Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup
  • Sicilian salad
  • Slow Food Liguria
  • Slow Food Piemonte and Val d'Aosta
  • Spinach with Garlic, Pine Nuts and Raisins
  • Stuffed Eggs, Piemontese Style
  • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
  • Tomato Aspic
  • Zucchini Raita

E. Blogroll

  • 2 Baci in a Pinon Tree
  • Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino
  • An American in Rome
  • Bella Baita View
  • Debra & Liz's Bagni di Lucca Blog
  • Expat Blog
  • Food Lovers Odyssey
  • Italian Food Forever
  • L’Orto Orgolioso
  • La Avventura – La Mia Vita Sarda
  • La Cucina
  • La Tavola Marche
  • Rubber Slippers in Italy
  • Southern Fried French
  • Status Viatoris
  • Tour del Gelato
  • Weeds and Wisdom

Photographs

  • A Day on the Phoenix Light Rail Metro
  • Apache Trail in the Snow
  • Aquileia and Croatia
  • Birds on the Golf Course
  • Bridge Art
  • Canadair Fire Fighters
  • Cats of Italy
  • Cloudy day walk from Nozarego to Portofino
  • Fiera del Bestiame e Agricultura
  • Football Finds a Home in San Maurizio
  • Hiking Dogs
  • Mercatino dei Sapori – Food Fair!
  • Moto Models
  • Olive pressing
  • Rapallo Gardens
  • Rapallo's Festa Patronale
  • Ricaldone and the Rinaldi Winery
  • Rice Fields
  • Sardegna ~ Arbatax and Tortoli
  • Sardegna ~ San Pietro above Baunei
  • Sardegna ~ The Festa in Baunei
  • Scotland, including Isle of Skye
  • Slow Food 2008 Salone del Gusto
  • The Cat Show and the Light Rail Fair
  • The desert in bloom
  • Trip to Bavaria

Pages

  • Fagioli all’ucelleto

Archives

Recent Posts

  • A Superior Visit
  • Fun at the Ranch Market
  • The MAC
  • Welcome Tai Chi
  • Bingo Fun for Ferals
November 2008
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