• Contact
  • Elaborations
    • A Policeman’s View
    • Driving School Diary
    • Great Danes
    • IVA charged on Tassa Rifiuti
    • Nana
    • Old trains and Old weekends
    • The peasant, the virgin, the spring and the ikon
    • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland??
  • Recipes
    • ‘Mbriulata
    • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
    • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
    • *Cherry Tart*
    • *Crimson Pie*
    • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
    • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana* – Eggplant Parmesan
    • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
    • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
    • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
    • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
    • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast* on the rotisserie
    • *Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup*
    • *Spezzatino di Vitello*
    • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
    • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
    • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
    • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
    • *Tzatziki*
    • 10th Tee Apricot Bars
    • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
    • Artichoke Parmigiano Dip
    • Best Brownies in the World
    • Clafoutis
    • Cod the Way Sniven Likes It
    • Cold Cucumber Soup
    • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
    • Easy spring or summer pasta
    • Fagioli all’ucelleto
    • Fish in the Ligurian Style
    • Hilary’s Spicy Rain Forest Chop
    • Insalata Caprese
    • Kumquat and Cherry Upside Down Cake
    • Lasagna Al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
    • Lemon Meringue Pie
    • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
    • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
    • Louis’s Apricot Chutney
    • Mom’s Sicilian Bruschetta
    • No-Knead Bread (almost)
    • Nonna Salamone’s Famous Christmas Cookies
    • Pan-fried Noodles, with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
    • Pesto
    • Pesto
    • Pickle Relish
    • Poached Pears
    • Polenta Cuncia
    • Pumpkin Sformato with Fonduta and Frisee
    • Rustic Hearth Bread
    • Sicilian Salad
    • Soused Hog’s Face
    • Spotted Dick
    • Swedish Tea Wreaths
    • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
    • Tomato Aspic
    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
    • Winter Squash or Pumpkin Gratin
    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Monthly Archives: January 2009

Desert Island Food

29 Thursday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Food, Uncategorized

≈ 11 Comments

Tags

desert island food, favorite food, silly game

Every now and then the Captain and I play the Desert Island Food game, and I’d like to invite you to play…

You’ve played before, right?  Imagine that you have been marooned on a dessert island (now that’s being an expatriate).  You might be there for a day, a week, or… forever.  You are allowed to take only FOUR foods with you.  What are they?


No fair saying something like ‘vegetables’ – that’s too broad; narrow it down to which vegetable. Your choices can be raw ingredients or some prepared dish (tuna casserole?) (maybe not). You’ll have unlimited water and a fire for cooking. A beverage counts as ‘food.’ Since you’re on an island it’s not inconceivable that you will be able to catch something from time to time, either in the water or on the ground (I’m hoping for a fish or a clam now and then), but you can’t assume that certain foods will always be available. It’s important to consider your health, physical, mental and emotional – you’re likely to be on that island for a long time.

Submit your desert island foods via comments, and in a month I’ll tally them all up and tell you what the most preferred foods are.

Here are mine (for today, anyway) – I bet some of you will be a lot more imaginative and creative, but here goes:

Brie cheese
oranges
spinach
wheat thins

Freeway Shock and Highway Art

27 Tuesday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Arizona, Driving in the U.S., Uncategorized

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

highway art, Loop 202, Phoenix highways

img_7293

At the risk of stating the obvious, there is much, much, MUCH more open space here in Arizona than there is in our beloved Liguria, or in Italy as a whole, for that matter.  One of the luxuries all this space provides is the continued ability of the State to build huge new highways.  We are as great fans of the Italian Autostrada system as anyone else (and especially fans of the highway rest stops, the Autogrills particularly – yum!).  But if you find an autostrada with more than four lanes in one direction you have found a rarity.  Two lanes in each direction, sometimes with no emergency lane, are common in Italy (as they were on the dreadful old Pennsylvania Turnpike near Philly).

The Loop 202 was recently completed around Phoenix, making it a much shorter trip to get from our part of the Valley to Phoenix or to Sky Harbor Airport on the east side of the city.  For whatever reason extra care was taken to make the bridge abutments and the gravel banks on the sides of the highway beautiful.  The themes are, unsurprisingly, southwestern, and are all different.  It makes the drive much more interesting and fun, as do the lovely shrubs and trees that have been planted on some of the banks.

img_7290

But for all the space given to the new road, it is still choked with rush-hour traffic before 9 a.m. and between 3 and 7 p.m.  It’s hard to imagine where all the traffic went before this road was opened.  Driving around Phoenix at rush hour is about like trying to drive around Venice at any time.

And no matter what you may have heard about driving and drivers in Italy, both are a whole lot worse here.  The captain opines that the most dangerous instrument in the world is a woman in an SUV talking on her cell phone.  While I don’t necessarily agree with him (harumph!), I do think that drivers here exhibit an aggressiveness and a carelessness that is, well, not Italian.

Good or bad, the drivers here have a beautiful new highway. If you’d like to see some more photographs of the Loop’s bridge art, click on ‘bridge art’ under photographs over on the right, or click right here.  As usual, a slide show is recommended.

The Best Thing I Ate Last Week

22 Thursday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in American recipes, Food, Uncategorized

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

eating lobster, how to kill a lobster, lobster

lobster-aftermath

Not much comment required here… the best place in the world to eat the best lobsters in the world is New England, preferably within 100 miles of the coast.  We bought these beauties live, from a tank; each one weighed about 1.5 pounds.

Now the awkward part – how to kill the little dears?  While plunging them headfirst into a large pot of boiling water is the time-honored way, some say that there is a more humane way to do it with a knife, which you can see here, complete with gruesome photos of lobster-cide.  A friend skilled in biology once told me that lobsters have such a basic nervous system there is some doubt about whether they actually feel pain, as we think of it.  Who knows?  Ask a lobster!

The advantage of the quick knife through the brain is, supposedly, instant and relatively painless death.  The benefit of the boiling water method accrues completely to the murderess – one can look the other way and scream while thrusting the beast into the pot.  That way you won’t hear it if it screams.  Surely death by boiling water is also quick?  I have never heard a lobster scream, but then, being a practitioner of the second method, I have a pretty well-developed scream of my own.

However you choose to do in your lobster, serve it with drawn butter and lemon, and put out a big bowl for shells and extra liquid, as well as plenty of napkins. If you’ve never eaten lobster and don’t know how to tackle it, you can find some excellent instruction here.

A note on what you might find within:  if you find some orange stuff you’ve got a female and those are her eggs – considered delicious by many.  The green stuff is the lobster’s liver; while it is yummy, it might not be such a good idea to eat it; the liver is where all the poisons and contaminants of the lobster’s body gather.  The lobster is a bottom-dwelling garbage eater, so what his body considers poison is probably pretty gross.

Is it worth traveling to New England to eat lobster.  Oh yes!  The ‘shedders’ (lobsters who have outgrown their old, hard carapace and are wearing a new one that is still soft) have less meat in relation to the shell size, but the shell is much softer, and some consider the meat sweeter.  Typically a lobster sheds in the summer, so if you want a crusty old fella bursting with meat, eat lobster  in the winter or spring.  Having said that, my two companions had hard-shell lobsters and mine was soft-shelled; you really just never know.

Buon Appetito!

Expatriate in a Cold Climate

20 Tuesday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Driving in the U.S., Travel, Uncategorized, Weather

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

cold weather, driving on icy roads, New England winter, New Hampshire, Vermont

cold-winter-sun

No, this is not a black and white photo… see that brush of brown on the shed, bottom right?  a hint of red in the barn?  This is New England winter, just as I remember it:  life lived many days in black, white and shades of gray.  That little faint ball in the sky?  Yeah, that’s the sun.  Sort of.

We lived in New England for decades and loved it, but having been away for several years it is a shock to place oneself in Vermont in January.  -20 F (-29 C) is very, very cold.  So cold that when you go out to feed the shivering birds your hands become numb almost immediately.  The good thing about -20 F is that it is accompanied by cloudless blue skies – the sort of frigid blue that makes the phrase ‘blue is a cool color’ seem completely inadequate.

Here are some of the superficial differences between winter life in New England and winter life in Rapallo or Arizona:  1) It takes 5-10 minutes to bundle up to go outside, even for a few minutes work or fun; another 5-10 to unbundle when back indoors.  2)  One’s appetite increases geometrically as the temperature plunges – the colder it is, the hungrier we are and the more we eat.  3) Exercise – you can take a crunchy walk in the snow on the verge of the road, but you won’t stay out long.  Or you can ski, skate, or winter hike, each of which may well involve a drive somewhere.  4) And if you decide to take that drive… well, I’ll let the photos below from our trip back to the airport tell the tale:

3-off-road2

and-another-accident

another-accident

In all we saw a total of 10 cars off the road on a 30-mile stretch of  Interstate 89 in New Hampshire.  Fortunately we did not suffer this fate and I reached my plane, thanks to daring driving by M.,  with 15 minutes to spare.

Stepping into the 70 F night air at Sky Harbor Airport was a  shock of another sort, as was smelling the perfume of the blooming  tree off the deck and standing outside, uncoated, to admire the wash of stars in the dark, moonless sky.

Would I go back to New England in the winter?  In a heartbeat.

Wanderers

12 Monday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in American habits and customs, Customs, Travel, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

restless gene, restlessness, Travel, urge to travel, wanderlust

Courtesy of touregypt.net

Courtesy of touregypt.net

A December “Briefly Noted” in the New Yorker about Edmund White’s new biography of Rimbaud struck a synchronous note with an essay by Bruce Chatwin entitled “It’s a nomad nomad world,”  which I happened to read a few days later.  Why?  Rimbaud and Chatwin were both inveterate wanderers (and I hope the similarities end there because Rimbaud sounds horrid and I like the restless Chatwin).

Why do we wander? Why would someone with a lovely place to live in Italy want to spend time elsewhere?  Why does anyone want to pick up stakes and move?  It’s not all economics or thinking that ‘the grass is greener over there’.  Chatwin, in his essay, posits that our genetic heritage makes us move: “All our activities are linked to the idea of journeys.  And I like to think that our brains have an information system giving us our orders for the road, and that here lie the mainsprings of our restlessness.”

Man has existed in more or less his present state for perhaps 200,000 years; civilization dates from at least 4,000 BC., or earlier.  Before that people wandered of necessity to find food and/or shelter.  Now, maybe, we wander because of the restless gene that pricks our curiosity and makes us want to see the geography of other parts of the world, hear strange languages and meet people with different frames of reference (and maybe eat some new and interesting food as well).  Maybe, as well, that urge for movement makes 1-hour commutes acceptable to vast numbers of people who are otherwise sane.

There are those who cheerfully wander in their imaginations, and sometimes I think they have the best trips of all.  At the very least they’re home in time for supper.  But others are afflicted with such wanderlust that a month at ‘home’ is painful.   Most of us, I suppose, fall somewhere in between, being happy by our own hearths most of the time, while enjoying an occasional safe journey.

But isn’t it nice when planning the madness of, say, airplane travel or a long stay in a strange place, to know that we really can’t help it?  It’s a biological imperative!

Yesterday I put my visiting sister and her friend on a plane for home and I’m going to leave sunny, warm Arizona to go to grey, wintery Vermont for about a week.  It’s something I just have to do…

Where are you going?  Do you travel frequently or are you a homebody?

Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans

07 Wednesday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in American recipes, Food, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Arizonican food, crispy tortillas, fried tortillas, tortillas

img_77191

While he was working on these tasty goodies I asked the Captain if he would call this Tex-Mex food.  He thought for a while and opined that no, these are Arizonican – so here you have it: the first entry in a whole new food category.

Its best to fry up the tortillas yourself, though you can buy them already crisped. After the frying you will put the toppings on and broil.  Garnish with salsa cruda and, if you like it, sour cream.  I’m of the school that believes there is little in the world that is not improved with the addition of sour cream, but there are those who don’t agree, strange as it may seem. The recipe for what you see above can be found here, or by clicking under recipes over on the right. The recipe for the salsa is here, and also on the right.

There are two great things about this dish: 1) It’s really fun to make and 2) It’s infinitely adaptable to what you have around and what you like to eat. It is only coincidental that these look like pizzas, it does not mean that we are pining for our adopted country.  Well, maybe a little…

You can’t get there from here…

03 Saturday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in American habits and customs, Travel

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

public transportation, train travel in the U.S., trains

Last year when we returned home to Italy after a stay in the U.S. we asked a friend to drive us to the Phoenix Airport (Sky Harbor, what a great name for an airport).  Our trip involved a couple of plane changes before we finally arrived in Pisa (Aeroporto Galileo Galilei – another evocative name).

After claiming our luggage we walked to the shuttle train which, after the briefest of waits, carried us to the main Pisa train station.  Another short wait ensued, and then we hopped on a train that carried us right to Rapallo.

photo by Maurizio Boi

photo by Maurizio Boi

Dragging our bags behind us we crossed the street to the bus station.  We did have to wait close to an hour, but then a bus carried us up the hill to San Maurizio and dropped us off within 20 meters of our house.

Photo from Max Chern Collection

Photo from Max Chern Collection

The Italian part of the journey combined all the bests parts of travel: thrifty independence, timeliness, the joy of riding on a train, and the entertainment of time spent at a bus station.  What more could you ask?

Why can’t we do that in the United States?  Once upon a time American cities were connected by an intricate web of rails and it was quite possible to get from one town to another by train.  Not only was it possible; it was often the most efficient way to travel.

The magic of watching a train chuff into a small-town station is long gone.  American kids don’t have a lot of opportunities to see passenger trains unless they live near large metropolitan areas. What a pity!

And how inconvenient.  All the post-World War II road building in the U.S. was a boon to those with the means to buy, store and feed an automobile; for everyone else it has been a huge disservice, as public transportation has dwindled and train tracks have been pulled up.  It’s an ugly circle: fewer passengers leads to less service which leads to even fewer passengers which leads to….

Some say it is a matter of size.  The U.S. is vast.  Well, so is Europe, and we can get to just about anywhere in Europe from our front door using only public transportation.  Is it as convenient as driving?  Of course not!  But it is less costly, much less tiring and likely to be pretty entertaining. And it’s probably better for Old Mother Earth.  From our front door in Arizona we can take a very nice walk… and end up back at our front door.

(In Elaborations over on the right there are fascinating accounts of ‘house-party girls’ arriving by train for a college weekend in Massachusetts, and of the last passenger train to run through the Hoosac Tunnel.)

2009 Doggerel

01 Thursday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Put a lentil in your pot,

Make a wish for quite a lot,

Kick the old year out the door.

Let the New Year bring you more

of all you wish for and all you cravery

health and wisdom, joy and bravery.

To all who visit this blog o’ mine ~ I wish you the best possible in 2009. No doubt it will be quite a ride.

I am grateful that you read and comment.  Come back often.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

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A. Useful Links

  • bab.la language dictionary
  • Bus schedules for Tigullio
  • Conversions
  • English-Italian, Italian-English Dictionary
  • Expats Moving and Relocation Guide
  • Ferry Schedule Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino, San Frutuoso
  • Italian Verbs Conjugated
  • Piazza Cavour
  • Rapallo's Home Page – With Link to the Month's Events
  • Slow Travel
  • The Informer – The Online Guide to Living in Italy
  • Transportation Planner for Liguria
  • Trenitalia – trains! Still the most fun way to travel.

C. Elaborations

  • A Policeman’s View
  • Driving School Diary
  • IVA refunds due for past Rifiuti tax payements
  • Nana
  • Old trains and old weekends
  • The peasant, the Virgin, the spring and the ikon
  • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland?

D. Good Recipes - Best of the Week winners are starred

  • 'Mbriulata
  • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
  • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
  • *Crimson Pie*
  • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
  • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana*
  • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
  • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
  • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
  • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
  • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast*
  • *Spezzatini di Vitello*
  • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
  • *Stuffed Peaches (Pesche Ripiene)*
  • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
  • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
  • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
  • *Three P's Pasta*
  • *Tzatziki*
  • 10th Tee Oatmeal Apricot Bars
  • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
  • Aspic
  • Bagna-calda
  • Best Brownies in the World
  • Clafoutis
  • Cold cucumber soup
  • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
  • Easy spring or summer pasta
  • Fish in the Ligurian Style
  • Hilary's Spicy Rain Forest Chop
  • Insalata Caprese
  • Lasagna al forno
  • Lasagna al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
  • Lemon Meringue Pie
  • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
  • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
  • Louis’s apricot chutney
  • Mom's Sicilian Bruschetta
  • No-Knead (almost) Bread
  • Nonna Salamone's Christmas Cookies
  • Pan Fried Noodles with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
  • Pesto, the classic and original method
  • Pesto, the modern, less authentic method
  • Pickle Relish
  • Poached pears
  • Poached Pears
  • Polenta Cuncia
  • Recipes from Paradise by Fred Plotkin
  • Rustic Hearth Bread
  • Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup
  • Sicilian salad
  • Slow Food Liguria
  • Slow Food Piemonte and Val d'Aosta
  • Spinach with Garlic, Pine Nuts and Raisins
  • Stuffed Eggs, Piemontese Style
  • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
  • Tomato Aspic
  • Zucchini Raita

E. Blogroll

  • 2 Baci in a Pinon Tree
  • Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino
  • An American in Rome
  • Bella Baita View
  • Debra & Liz's Bagni di Lucca Blog
  • Expat Blog
  • Food Lovers Odyssey
  • Italian Food Forever
  • L’Orto Orgolioso
  • La Avventura – La Mia Vita Sarda
  • La Cucina
  • La Tavola Marche
  • Rubber Slippers in Italy
  • Southern Fried French
  • Status Viatoris
  • Tour del Gelato
  • Weeds and Wisdom

Photographs

  • A Day on the Phoenix Light Rail Metro
  • Apache Trail in the Snow
  • Aquileia and Croatia
  • Birds on the Golf Course
  • Bridge Art
  • Canadair Fire Fighters
  • Cats of Italy
  • Cloudy day walk from Nozarego to Portofino
  • Fiera del Bestiame e Agricultura
  • Football Finds a Home in San Maurizio
  • Hiking Dogs
  • Mercatino dei Sapori – Food Fair!
  • Moto Models
  • Olive pressing
  • Rapallo Gardens
  • Rapallo's Festa Patronale
  • Ricaldone and the Rinaldi Winery
  • Rice Fields
  • Sardegna ~ Arbatax and Tortoli
  • Sardegna ~ San Pietro above Baunei
  • Sardegna ~ The Festa in Baunei
  • Scotland, including Isle of Skye
  • Slow Food 2008 Salone del Gusto
  • The Cat Show and the Light Rail Fair
  • The desert in bloom
  • Trip to Bavaria

Pages

  • Fagioli all’ucelleto

Archives

Recent Posts

  • A Superior Visit
  • Fun at the Ranch Market
  • The MAC
  • Welcome Tai Chi
  • Bingo Fun for Ferals
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