• Contact
  • Elaborations
    • A Policeman’s View
    • Driving School Diary
    • Great Danes
    • IVA charged on Tassa Rifiuti
    • Nana
    • Old trains and Old weekends
    • The peasant, the virgin, the spring and the ikon
    • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland??
  • Recipes
    • ‘Mbriulata
    • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
    • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
    • *Cherry Tart*
    • *Crimson Pie*
    • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
    • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana* – Eggplant Parmesan
    • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
    • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
    • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
    • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
    • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast* on the rotisserie
    • *Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup*
    • *Spezzatino di Vitello*
    • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
    • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
    • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
    • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
    • *Tzatziki*
    • 10th Tee Apricot Bars
    • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
    • Artichoke Parmigiano Dip
    • Best Brownies in the World
    • Clafoutis
    • Cod the Way Sniven Likes It
    • Cold Cucumber Soup
    • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
    • Easy spring or summer pasta
    • Fagioli all’ucelleto
    • Fish in the Ligurian Style
    • Hilary’s Spicy Rain Forest Chop
    • Insalata Caprese
    • Kumquat and Cherry Upside Down Cake
    • Lasagna Al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
    • Lemon Meringue Pie
    • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
    • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
    • Louis’s Apricot Chutney
    • Mom’s Sicilian Bruschetta
    • No-Knead Bread (almost)
    • Nonna Salamone’s Famous Christmas Cookies
    • Pan-fried Noodles, with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
    • Pesto
    • Pesto
    • Pickle Relish
    • Poached Pears
    • Polenta Cuncia
    • Pumpkin Sformato with Fonduta and Frisee
    • Rustic Hearth Bread
    • Sicilian Salad
    • Soused Hog’s Face
    • Spotted Dick
    • Swedish Tea Wreaths
    • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
    • Tomato Aspic
    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
    • Winter Squash or Pumpkin Gratin
    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Monthly Archives: April 2009

Weeds

28 Tuesday Apr 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Flowers, gardening, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

allium, weeds

The Captain almost finished the mowing Saturday, a big job this time as it hasn’t been done since last November.  The grass is full of a kind of allium that grows all over the hillsides here and is blooming now.  The smell it makes when it is cut is, depending on your taste, heavenly or horrendous.  I happen to love onions and garlic, so I love the smell of the fresh-cut allium, but I imagine it might make my sister, who is allergic to all things allium, quake.
onion-weed
There is so much of this stuff growing, it’s a pity that it can’t be eaten. Our neighbor Rosa, the proprietress of the trattoria across the street, has warned us that eating this particular plant will make us sick. In spite of its yummy aroma we have heeded her advice. Wikipedia says there are 1250 varieties of allium – I haven’t been able to figure out exactly which this one is.  Here’s a close-up of its very sweet flower.

wild-onion-flower

After a winter of neglect the orto (veggie and flower garden) was in serious need of attention, which is my department. I tackled the ‘weeds’ around one of the rose bushes that act as sentries on the north side of the garden. One man’s weed is another man’s flower, I’ve heard it said, and I agree. It is hard to weed when the intruders are so pretty:
weed

But the rose will be happier if it has some air around its feet, so the allium, buttercups and clover are now all in the compost. We knew it rained a lot over the winter, and proof was evident under the weeds:
little-mushrooms
Each of these mushrooms was about the size of the head of a pin – teeny. Their frilly cousins over on the stone wall are somewhat larger:

mushrooms-in-rocks

Digging around in the dirt, which is soft now from all the rain, one frequently turns up surprises such as worms, grubs, ants,or  beetles.  I found a few of this animal tightly curled up just under the surface of the ground. Uncurled they look ickily like worms and tend to thrash around in an unbecoming way, but curled up they are quite attractive.
curled-up-bug

stinging-nettleWorking in the garden isn’t all sweet perfume and curious fauna. There is treachery hiding amongst the allium: the wretched stinging nettle. It looks innocuous enough, but touch it with your bare skin and you will get a prickly rash and a nasty stinging feeling that will last for ten or twenty minutes: not the end of the world, but something to watch out for.

There’s always a serpent in the garden, I guess, no matter where you live.

Permesso ad nauseam

25 Saturday Apr 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian bureaucracy, Italy, Law and order, Uncategorized

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

Carta di Sogiorno, permesso di sogiorno

This is a two-part post.  The first was written before April 21st, the second part afterwards…

Some stories just grind on, and on, and on…  the end just may be in sight, though, for the Tale of the Elusive Permessi.

Our former Permessi di Soggiorno, the very important documents that give us permission to be in the country, expired last July.  With the invaluable help of the Patronato office in Rapallo we each applied (in May!) for a Carta di Soggiorno, which will give us a permission of longer duration.  (The accounts of this adventure up to now can be found here.)  Unfortunately the process was not completed before we left the country in November.

The Captain was able to navigate the Questura’s website when we got back, and found, to our delight, that our Permessi are now ready for us. Yippee!!  But of course one cannot simply show up at the Questura and ask for them; one must make an appointment.  And there’s only one way to do that.  One must go to the Questura.  In Genova.  On a Tuesday or Thursday between 3:30 and 5:30 p.m.  Well, okay… seems a little Baroque, but we’re game.

So we hopped on the local train (I love any train ride, so I was thrilled), rode 40 minutes to Genova, trotted tpermesso-appointmento the gate at the Questura, thrust our passports under the glass and were issued with two little slips of paper with the day (April 21), the time (10:00 a.m.) and the numbers of our appointments.  Then we jogged back to the train station and just caught a train which, 40 minutes later, dropped us in Rapallo.

Next Tuesday, April 21, we will repeat the exercise, although we know full well that we will sit in the waiting room for an indeterminate amount of time until our names are called.  At least this time we have been given appointments on the same day.  We had to go on successive days last time.  With luck we will be given shiny new Carte di Soggiorno that will last us five years.  By which time we will have forgotten what a long process this has been.

I’m not really complaining about Italian bureaucracy (yes I am); it’s their country, and they are very nice to allow us to be here at all, and we are happy (well, willing anyway – what choice do we have?) to comply with any and all requirements to stay here.  But doesn’t it seem odd that one cannot make an appointment by phone, fax or e-mail?  They’ve seen the passports before and taken fingerprints and, and, and…  In fact, why not just mail us the Permessi?  Oh gosh, there I go again, being all American and efficient.  Where’s the fun in that?

———– TIME PASSES————-

Okay… it’s disclaimer time…

We went to the Questura at the appointed time, and after only a little confusion were sent down to the Immigration waiting room.  Here is the rest of the 10 o’clock gang:

questura-waiting-roomIt’s a stuffy room at the best of times, so we prefer to wait outside where we can also keep an eye on the room to which we will eventually be summoned.  That’s it on the right behind all the glass:

questura

Now here’s the amazing thing.  Our appointments were for 10 a.m., and we were actually called in at 10:30.  We have never, ever, had such a short wait at the Questura.  Not only that, once one is called in there is frequently another long wait inside.  Not this time.  There were two people in front of us, each of whom took less than five minutes.  The Captain walked up to the glass partition when his number was called, pushed his passport and old permesso through, and back came a paper for a signature, followed rapidly by an envelope containing his permesso card and a bunch of secret codes for things we don’t understand (yet).  Then it was my turn, and everything was just as expeditious.

We walked out of the Questura at 10:45, both proud holders of Permessi di Soggiorno that are good until 2013 – that’s four years!  It makes us feel almost indolent to have that much time before we must repeat the process.  Now the trick will be to remember to apply for the new permessi in late 2012…

A Pretty Good Thing We Ate This Week – Lemon Meringue Pie

22 Wednesday Apr 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in American recipes, Desserts, Food, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Betty Crocker, Lemon meringue pie, pies

img_9909

In all honesty the Best Thing We Ate This Week was Louis’s osso buco, served with risotto; I hope to put that recipe up soon.  Meanwhile, we served a lemon meringue pie for dessert to Italian guests, and they seemed to like it (asked for the recipe in fact).  So, though it’s not the Best of the week, it’s one-of-the-better of the week.  If it has any downside it is that it’s very sweet.  But then, that’s what dessert is for, no?

Betty Crocker taught me how to make this pie and I still follow her recipe almost to the letter.  You can find the recipe here.  I like to make my own crusts, but there’s no reason not to buy one if you’re short of time.  It won’t be as good, but it certainly won’t be bad.  Likewise, freshly squeezed lemon juice and freshly grated lemon peel are best, though you can buy bottled juice and dried zest.

By the way, if you haven’t yet made aquaintance with the new breed of microplaners, do so.  They are fantastic tools for grating cheese, zest – whatever you need grated.  We use ours almost daily.  They come in several sizes for different jobs.

Back in the Saddle Again

17 Friday Apr 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Driving in Italy, Flowers, Italy, Liguria, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

louis-gil-rose

The saddle of my scooter, that is…  and what a great way to travel it is.  It’s economical and efficient – scooters here routinely pass a standing (or slower moving) line of cars, and move to the head of the class at any red light. (That’s my scooter… but that’s not me!)

One of the unsung pleasures of scootering is that you get an ever-changing panoply of scents.  It’s true, they’re not always pleasant, but at this time of year they tend to be floral and heavenly.  The wisteria (glicine, pronounced glee-chee-nay) is in bloom and is draped over numerous walls along the highways and byways.

wisteria

It puts out a delicious aroma.  The jasmine (gelsomino, prounounced jell-zo-mee-n0) is just beginning to flower.  It’s a thug (that’s a technical horticultural term for anything that spreads rapidly and is hardy), but is so pretty and has such a sweet smell that we forgive it its pushy habits.

jasmine-4-14-2009-12-31-14-pm

About the time this finishes blooming the ‘false jasmine,’ the pitosfero, will appear, and it’s perfume is a match for the true jasmine.

Riding in a car one tends to miss most smells except the most overstated (I’m thinking about a skunk, aren’t you?).  But riding on a scooter in the Riviera can be like inhaling a dictionary of different odors, and this time of year they’re more likely than not to be extremely pleasant.  Just riding up Via Betti at about 9:30 a.m. one enjoys first  the garbage plant (not so nice), some glicine over a wall (gorgeous), and fianlly the smell of freshly baked bread from our local bakery (scrumptuous)… and it’s only been half a kilometer.

We were glad to see more scooters in the US than in previous visits.  No, it’s not the safest mode of transport – for that I suppose you’d want a Hummer.  But for ease, economy and pure gioia di viaggiare, nothing beats a scooter.  We were both really glad to climb back aboard ours.

Familiarity

14 Tuesday Apr 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in American habits and customs, Travel, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

familiarity, tedium, why travel

Familiarity can breed contempt, as the old saying has it, but more frequently it breeds something worse, a sort of lazy eye.  One stops looking at what one sees daily.  It (or, sadly, sometimes he or she) is simply there.  It also breeds a taking-for-granted of the condition life as it is, laziness of a related sort.

When we are in Italy, where we now live, almost everything seems new and strange to me, even after 8 years.  There is so much to learn about a new country and culture – one can barely scratch the surface.  There will always be subtleties that we simply don’t understand, both in language and practice.

When we returned to the States for an extended stay this year, everything here seemed strange and huge – big roads, big stores, big cars, big people.  After about two weeks, though, it became the norm because, as Americans, it is the life that is most familiar to us.  How quickly we took for granted that stores were open in the middle of the day, though they might close earlier than we’d like (or weirdly, they might be open all night!).  How quickly and happily we adapted to gas for the car that costs less than the equivalent of $5/gallon; and (*yawn*) the fact that we can get any book, cd, dvd, or magazine we want for free at the public library.  We joined an inexpensive service that sent us the movies we requested through the mail, and we received them only two days after the request… amazing!  To be honest, we very quickly did get used to all the readily available services and goods here.

Back in January I was musing about why we (people in general) move around as much as we do.  One reason I overlooked back then was simply the joy in giving our mental eyes a good bath, seeing things from a different perspective, jolting ourselves out of the rut of our familiar lives.  They say people always return from a vacation refreshed and that they work much more efficiently.  It makes sense.  When we come back with new eyes we actually see our work, rather than seeing the one-dimensional ‘work’ that we’ve grown so accustomed to.

We’re traveling again next week, returning to Italy.  We’ve grown used to life back here in the good old U.S., and yes! we like it here.  But we’re excited to be going home.  Everything will be, for a time, unfamiliar.  What fun!

Desert Reptiles and Other Critters

11 Saturday Apr 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Animals in the U.S., Arizona, Desert, Hiking in Arizona, Photographs, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Gila monster, rabbit in desert

They say there are rattlesnakes in Arizona.  HB can tell you I’ve gone out of my way to find one, but have been unsuccessful so far.  It’s one thing to see a snake in a nature center or zoo, but I think it would be quite thrilling to see one in its natural habitat; my friends here think I’m nuts.  HB and I did see a gorgeous gila monster on one of our hikes.  He was about  15 inches long and, HB tells me, very healthy, his chubby tail being the measure of his well-being. Gila monsters are venomous, and while they are sluggish, if you were to step on one by myself he would probably bite you.  And he wouldn’t let go.  You would have to get yourself to the hospital quickly, with the animal still attached.  That story would not have a very good end for either of you, especially the gila monster.

gila

There are several varieties of small lizard resident in this desert.  This one was sent over by central casting – he posed fearlessly as I stalked him with my camera.

img_9597

One of the best things I’ve come upon in the desert was this egg.  It’s about 2 inches long, and I have no idea whose it is.  I was stalking another, larger lizard when I found it.  Maybe it’s full of hundreds of wee snakes; or maybe a lizard will pop out one day soon.

egg1

We have seen javelinas (Arizona’s answer to cinghiale, though of a different family) and deer, but only on golf courses, which somehow doesn’t seem to count.  We’ve also seen countless rabbits on the fairways; golfing bunnies are very bold, much more so than their cousins who are still living in the desert, like this fellow:

find-the-bunny-1 It’s hard even to find him, isn’t it?

I’ve mentioned the birds and bees in an earlier post, but now that there are so many flowers in bloom there are also a great many butterflies.  Have you ever tried to take a picture of one?  They are fast!  No sooner do you get your camera turned on than they zip off to a distant flower.

butterfly

A beautiful swallow-tail visited our citrus tree at home the other day, alit briefly on a glossy green leaf and then raced off.  It’s hard to know how something that looks so frail and delicate (and in fact is frail and delicate) can move so fast (between 5 and 30mph, according to The Children’s Butterfly Site.

The desert sometimes seems dry and lifeless, but there’s a lot happening out there, and it’s really fun to go hiking and look for the action.  Just be careful not to step on a snake or a big lizard!

Sad

08 Wednesday Apr 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Uncategorized

≈ Leave a comment

Our thoughts and prayers are with the residents and rescue workers in and around L’Aquila. For more information on the quake and for ways in which we can all help, please visit this site.

Desert in Bloom

06 Monday Apr 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Arizona, Flowers, Hiking in Arizona, Photographs, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

cacti, cactus, desert in bloom

Watching the desert bloom is like reading a long book.  There’s a plot, but the action unfolds really slowly.  Desert plants are tenacious; they have to be to survive the extremes this climate throws at them.  And the flowers they produce seem to be pretty tough too.  They may look delicate, but they hang on, day after day, in temperatures that seem high to this sissy.

The story begins with the lupines, which are strong enough to break through the road pavement and flower on the highway’s verge.last-lupine

This was one of the last, but they bloomed in an understated carpet along Route 60 for most of February.  The cheerful yellow California poppies bloom in broad swaths at about the same time.

Chapter two is the ubiquitous brittle bush which has tons of small yellow flowers.  The creosote plant, which smells like its name when the air is humid, also puts out a small yellow flower.  It makes a very amusing seed that looks like something an elf might use for a powder puff.

creosote-flower-and-seed

Chapters three through ten are all the small little plants that bloom on the desert floor.  They are so small that it would be easy to miss them unless, like me, you are sure you’re going to trip and fall, so you always are looking down.

little-blue-flowers

small-flowers

The climax has to be the flowering of the various cacti.  The desert here boasts several varieties of cholla (pronounced choy-yah), hedgehog, pincushions, barrels, prickly pear, teddy bears, ocatillo, the enormous suguaro and others I don’t know or have forgotten.  A month ago the cacti had big fat buds, and waiting for them to open has been an exercise in patience.

desert-prickly-pear
Finally they have started and it has been worth the wait. The hedgehogs are the early show-offs.

hedgehog-with-bug-and-spider

There is a world of action in that flower.  Just before I took the photo a bee buried itself completely in the stamen, wiggled around for a few seconds, and then took off.  I think it was drunk. Meanwhile the little black and red beetle seems to be napping.  The white spider didn’t like the camera and scuttled away right after this shot.

It’s almost impossible to take a bad picture of these flowers; they make the most considerate subjects.  If you would like to see some more pictures of the desert in bloom, click here, or over on the right under Photographs (choose the slide show option).

The desert in bloom is not as wildly showy as, say, an English cottage garden at its peak.  And it’s different in another really important way.  Almost every plant in the desert will happily impale you with something sharp and unpleasant.  The dastardly cholla, whose segments stick like glue and work their way through hiking boots and jeans, the fishhook barrels with their barbed spikes, and all the others too, seem to be carrying some kind of huge grudge.  Even the century plant (agave), familiar to us in Italy, is a stinker.

img_9598

I foolishly wandered over to stroke its smooth asparagus-like stalk, and one of the spines which reside at the end of each leaf went right into my leg.

No matter where you go in the desert, and no matter how lovely the flowers are, you are always going to find yourself between a rock and a sharp place.

The Best Thing We Ate This Week – Smoked Salmon

02 Thursday Apr 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in American recipes, Hiking in Arizona, Uncategorized

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

Goldfield Mountains, hiking food, smoked salmon

img_9608

Sometimes it’s not the food – it’s where you are and the person you’re eating with that makes a meal special and memorable.  My hiking buddy and I had our last hike together for many months on Sunday.  We returned to the Goldfield Mountains to search for an elusive trail that will now have to wait til November to meet my boots.  In lieu of the missing trail we opted to scramble up several rocky hills.  Lest you think these were gentle little mounds, here is the view of our car from our picnic spot:

img_9592

Can you even see that little dot down there?

In any event, after our exertions we had a fancier than usual mountaintop meal.  HB (hiking buddy) brought smoked salmon, caviar and those wafer thin crackers that want to be Wasa bread but aren’t rough and tough enough.  I brought smoked gouda cheese (which come to think of it was a gift from HB), grapes and salted pecans.  Accustomed as we are to wolfing down sandwiches, this was a meal fit for royalty, and we enjoyed every bite.

The company was superlative, the views in all directions were breath-taking and the day was warm without being hot.  There is no accompanying recipe to this post; here’s what you do:  buy some great smoked salmon and a little jar of caviar, pack that with some crackers, fruit and nuts in your pack, remember to take plenty of water, and don’t forget a lemon (HB didn’t), find a high place, climb to the top with a good friend, and eat.  Buon Appetito!

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C. Elaborations

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D. Good Recipes - Best of the Week winners are starred

  • 'Mbriulata
  • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
  • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
  • *Crimson Pie*
  • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
  • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana*
  • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
  • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
  • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
  • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
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  • *Spezzatini di Vitello*
  • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
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  • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
  • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
  • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
  • *Three P's Pasta*
  • *Tzatziki*
  • 10th Tee Oatmeal Apricot Bars
  • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
  • Aspic
  • Bagna-calda
  • Best Brownies in the World
  • Clafoutis
  • Cold cucumber soup
  • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
  • Easy spring or summer pasta
  • Fish in the Ligurian Style
  • Hilary's Spicy Rain Forest Chop
  • Insalata Caprese
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  • Lemon Meringue Pie
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  • Louis’s apricot chutney
  • Mom's Sicilian Bruschetta
  • No-Knead (almost) Bread
  • Nonna Salamone's Christmas Cookies
  • Pan Fried Noodles with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
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  • Pickle Relish
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  • Recipes from Paradise by Fred Plotkin
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  • Spinach with Garlic, Pine Nuts and Raisins
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  • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
  • Tomato Aspic
  • Zucchini Raita

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  • La Avventura – La Mia Vita Sarda
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  • Rubber Slippers in Italy
  • Southern Fried French
  • Status Viatoris
  • Tour del Gelato
  • Weeds and Wisdom

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