• Contact
  • Elaborations
    • A Policeman’s View
    • Driving School Diary
    • Great Danes
    • IVA charged on Tassa Rifiuti
    • Nana
    • Old trains and Old weekends
    • The peasant, the virgin, the spring and the ikon
    • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland??
  • Recipes
    • ‘Mbriulata
    • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
    • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
    • *Cherry Tart*
    • *Crimson Pie*
    • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
    • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana* – Eggplant Parmesan
    • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
    • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
    • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
    • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
    • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast* on the rotisserie
    • *Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup*
    • *Spezzatino di Vitello*
    • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
    • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
    • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
    • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
    • *Tzatziki*
    • 10th Tee Apricot Bars
    • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
    • Artichoke Parmigiano Dip
    • Best Brownies in the World
    • Clafoutis
    • Cod the Way Sniven Likes It
    • Cold Cucumber Soup
    • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
    • Easy spring or summer pasta
    • Fagioli all’ucelleto
    • Fish in the Ligurian Style
    • Hilary’s Spicy Rain Forest Chop
    • Insalata Caprese
    • Kumquat and Cherry Upside Down Cake
    • Lasagna Al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
    • Lemon Meringue Pie
    • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
    • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
    • Louis’s Apricot Chutney
    • Mom’s Sicilian Bruschetta
    • No-Knead Bread (almost)
    • Nonna Salamone’s Famous Christmas Cookies
    • Pan-fried Noodles, with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
    • Pesto
    • Pesto
    • Pickle Relish
    • Poached Pears
    • Polenta Cuncia
    • Pumpkin Sformato with Fonduta and Frisee
    • Rustic Hearth Bread
    • Sicilian Salad
    • Soused Hog’s Face
    • Spotted Dick
    • Swedish Tea Wreaths
    • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
    • Tomato Aspic
    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
    • Winter Squash or Pumpkin Gratin
    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Monthly Archives: August 2009

The Best Thing We Ate This Week – Melanzane alla Parmigiana

31 Monday Aug 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Food, Italian recipes, Uncategorized

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

antipasti, Eggplant alla Parmigiana, Eggplant Parmesan, Eggplant parmigiano, Eggplant recipes, Melanzane parmigiana, Melanzane ricette

antipasti

Our new friends G and G invited us to dinner the other night, along with a group of others from our palestra (gym).  What a meal we had!  Giorgio, it turns out, is a superb cook.  For antipasti (pictured above) he served grilled zucchini, onion focaccia, bagna cauda and melanzane alla parmigiana (front left in the photo).  I’ve never been a huge fan of what I think of as ‘eggplant parmesan,’ but Giorgio made his in the form of a light and delicate torta.  There was not an excess of heavily spiced sauce, or great long strings of melted mozzarella, both of which are great in the right places but better omitted here.  No, this was flavorful, but not at all heavy.  In fact, it was so good that it got the nod for The Best Thing We Ate This Week.  Giorgio has been kind enough to share the recipe, which you can find here, or over on the right under Good Recipes.

In the Old Way

27 Thursday Aug 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian habits and customs, Italian men, Italian women, People, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

cooking with wood, heating with wood, wood fuel

Our neighbors down the street still cook with wood, and, we suspect, heat their home with it as well. Their chimney tells the tale, no matter how warm the day.  Even this week, with temperatures at 37 C,  brushing 100 F, the mid-day smoke has appeared.

cooking with wood-1

We don’t know these neighbors, but every now and then we see them. She is elderly and plump and wears long skirts and a wary expression. He motors ever so slowly up and down the hill in his aged ape, frequently carrying  precariously balanced  fruit boxes with him, fuel for the stove. Where does he get them? I wish I could ask him, but they seem wary of strangers, and to them I suspect we are the strangest of the strange.

Other neighbors farther down the street seem to be laying in a good store of wood for the winter ahead. At least we are unable to think of any other reason for this massive collection of wooden pallets.

wood pallettes-2

I can’t imagine having to struggle up the narrow stone stairs on the left to carry fuel to my home (if, in fact, the collector lives up there). In fact, I can’t imagine cooking and heating using fruit boxes and wooden pallets for fuel. But our neighbors do it, and I admire them for it – no doubt it’s the way people cooked for years, using whatever fuel was readily at hand.  What a great way to recycle what otherwise might end up in the dump.

A Disturbing Sight

22 Saturday Aug 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Customs, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

arson, Burnt car, Matteo Vincenzo Vitale

There’s a big curve on our road where the pavement widens and there’s a pull-off. When we first moved here it was a favorite dumping spot for all manner of junk – construction detritus, old appliances, anything big, clunky and inconvenient. More recently, though, it has become a place where cars mysteriously appear, and then disappear. We’ve long thought that they were stolen cars that were left on the curve and which the police then hauled away.

Then this summer a blue Fiat wagon appeared regularly, most frequently on weekends  Why?  We surmised that someone who came and went from Rapallo felt he found a good temporary parking spot.  If so, he will have changed his mind.

burned car

This is what the car looks like now.  Someone, or more likely several someones, had a little fun with matches.  I find this terribly disturbing on two counts.  First, the wanton destruction of valuable property is so wasteful.  It is also a violent expression of… of what? of something very distressing.  Anger?  Antipathy? Boredom? Insanity?  Who knows?  I can’t imagine burning up a car for pleasure, for vendetta or for any other reason.  It has stood on the corner for about a month now, a mute testament to the destructive urges of some Rapallini.  Why it hasn’t yet been towed I can’t imagine.

burned car front seat

The second reason it is all so distressing is that this particular curve has become a memorial site.  About two years ago an 18 year old boy named Matteo Vincenzo Vitale had a bit too much to drink and drove his motorcycle smack into the stone wall at the side of the curve.  His friends and family have created, and still maintain, a little shrine to him there.

Teo's memorial

The paint is fading and his sports shirt is the worse from being out in the elements, but someone replaces the flowers regularly.  To see the burnt hulk of the Fiat adjacent to where Teo met his own violent end is just overwhelmingly sad.  It shows an ugly lack of respect, not only for the property destroyed, but for the meaning that the place has to others.  It’s just a pity.

L’ICI

17 Monday Aug 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian bureaucracy, Italy, Law and order, Rapallo, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Ici, Italian taxes, L'ici, taxes

So, what did you think when you read the title ‘L’ICI?  Lice?  Itch?  Well, in a way both are correct, since  L’ICI (pronounced leach’-eee) has been a pesky little problem that’s been driving us nuts.

Rapallo coat of arms

The ICI (eetchy!) is Italy’s real estate tax.  We’ve always been thrilled at how small it is compared to what we’re accustomed to paying in the U.S., where such taxes generally pay for public education.  I’m not sure what the ICI pays for here – it is a tax imposed by the commune (the town), and is used for ‘services.’  It seems to me that we are already taxed for just about every service we receive (garbage, TV, etc.), but I digress.

When we first bought our house we went to the Tribute Office where such things are paid, and asked how much we owed.  Perish the thought that a taxing body should actually prepare and send a bill!  No.  It is up to the tax-payer to a) know that there is a tax due, b) know how much it is and c) know where, when and how to pay it.  Okay.  We can and have learned this stuff, and keep a careful calendar so we won’t miss any payments.  The trick we never mastered was knowing how much to pay, so each year we went to the office and they were nice enough to tell us.  Sort of.

Last year we received a certified letter that we had to pick up an important document at the Tribute.  It turned out that since 2002 we had been paying an incorrect amount, on two counts.  First, we were paying as if our house were still a rustico instead of a restructured habitation (in spite of the fact that our geometra filed the correct forms informing the commune of the change) and second, only the Captain’s share of the tax had been paid, and that was only half of what was owed.  So we owed in excess of E 800.  They were nice enough to understand that these were honest mistakes (and not just ours), so the accrued penalties and interest were set aside.  Grudgingly we paid – yet another unexpected and large expense.  We still don’t understand why the office didn’t give us the correct amounts due each year when we trudged in to ask.

L’ICI for primary homes was abolished beginning last year (thank you, Mr. Berlusconi), which means we no longer pay.  Only businesses and those who own more than one home now have to pay.  But the ICI wasn’t finished with us, not yet.  We received a note this year telling us that we had not paid for 2002.  We hauled out the many forms and receipts left over from last year’s adventure and discovered that in fact we had nothing to show we’d paid more than the original incorrect amount in 2002.  So back the Captain went to the Tribute Office, gathered all the materials and, once again, we will be making an unexpected tax payment.

We shouldn’t complain, I suppose.  It is still way, way less than Americans pay annually in property taxes.  It’s just the inefficiency of it all that drives us crazy.  They probably never would have cottoned to the errors if the tax on primary residence hadn’t been abolished, but now I guess the workers in the Tribute office have time on their hands.

This should be the end of our ICI Adventure, but you just never know in Italy.  These things have a strange way of being resurrected at the most inopportune times.

Chivalry – still alive and well in Rapallo

13 Thursday Aug 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian men, Rapallo

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

Chivalry, Flavio

On Tuesday Flavio restored my flagging faith in mankind:

Flavio

I had just done a great big shopping at one of the local supermarkets.  It seemed like the day to buy everything heavy: 20 lbs of kitty litter, 6 liters of water, a dozen cans of beer, plus the usual foodstuffs.  Having gotten it all stowed in my trusty scooter, I started her up and motored about 50 feet.  Cough, cough, splutter, ominous silence.  Poor old scooter just flat out quit.  Flavio and one of his friends were across the street and watched as I fruitlessly tried to get the darn thing started again.  An old gent in a stylish fedora sporting bermuda shorts and an ace-bandaged ankle walked by and advised in passing, “spegna le luce, signora” – turn off the lights, which I did.

In frustration I parked the scoots and began weighing my options.  The Captain was engaged and I didn’t want to disrupt what he was doing.  It was, by this time, almost 1 p.m., and our scooter guy, Simone, would have gone home for lunch.  I was just about to head off to my friend Madelena’s paneficio to throw myself on her mercy when Flavio and his friend crossed the street and started tinkering.  They spent half an hour working on the scooter, to no avail.  They opined, and were later proved right, that I needed a new spark plug (‘candele’ in Italian – lovely word).

I was feverishly re-weighing options (by now Madelena would’ve gone home for mid-day) when Flavio asked where I lived.  I told him San Maurizio di Monti, and without a moment’s hesitation he offered to take me home.  “Oh no,” I replied, “It’s too far – 8 or 10 kilometers.”  He answered with a shrug and some words which I took to mean, “No problem.”

So he stowed all the groceries under his seat, and I hopped on the back of the big Burgman 400 and enjoyed a smooth and stately ride home.  It was such a nice thing to do!   How to say thanks?  I offered lunch at Rosa’s across the street, but he declined, got on his scooter and drove back down the mountain.

I don’t know anything about this man except that he’s one of Rapallo’s gentlemen, and he did me a truly nice turn that day.  I hope I can find him – we’ve got a bottle of wine with his name on it.  Thank you, Flavio!

Tom-Toms

09 Sunday Aug 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Food, Italian recipes, Uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Basil, Mozzarella, Pasta Recipes, Tomatoes

No, jungle drums aren’t talking – it’s the tomatoes out in the garden and they’re yelling to be picked.  The ripening started a few weeks ago, one here, one there, then a few more; now we have the full chorus, fortissimo, and we can barely keep up.  The Captain has already started canning what we can’t eat.

In addition to his delicious canned sauce, he makes a couple of things with fresh tomatoes that are quick, easy and a joy to eat: insalata caprese:

insalata caprese

and pasta with a fabulous fresh tomato and herb sauce, about which I wrote a year ago:

pasta fresh tom sauce

The Caprese makes great use of fresh basil, which has also been growing like mad in pots on the terrace (much happier in pots than in the garden).  Which brings to mind another of the Captain’s quick and easy summer treats: the bruschetta that he learned to make from his Sicilian mother:

bruchetti

Recipes for the three dishes above can be found here, here and here and over on the right under ‘Good Recipes’.

Here’s one of my very favorite summer treatments for tomatoes:  go out to the garden with a paring knife and a salt shaker.  Find the plumpest, ripest tomato you can and pick it.  Cut it in half, salt liberally, and eat it right there in the garden.  This is best done on a hot day when the tomato has been gently heated by the sun.  Yum.  Summer tomatoes and basil.  What could be more delicious?

Surf’s Up – Ligurian Style

04 Tuesday Aug 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Sports

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Paraggi, surfing, surfing in Italy

Surf's up Paraggi-1

Some stormy weather brushed past Liguria a few days ago giving us what passes for big surf here.  This pair of hearty souls got out the surfing kayak and rode the big ones.

In fairness I have to say that  in fine weather there are bigger waves in the open sea. The photo above was taken in the protected bay at Paraggi where of course the waves are smaller.  Here’s a photo that a man named Elio from near Torino took of a surfer down at Levanto:

levanto surfer (Elio from near Torino)

And when there’s a storm, watch out!  Camogli, on the other side of the peninsula from Paraggi, gets hit hard from time to time, as you can see in this photo by G. Ron:

Camogli storm by G Ron

So, laugh at the little waves in Paraggi if you must (I do)… but respect what they become when they’re all grown up and angry!

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A. Useful Links

  • bab.la language dictionary
  • Bus schedules for Tigullio
  • Conversions
  • English-Italian, Italian-English Dictionary
  • Expats Moving and Relocation Guide
  • Ferry Schedule Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino, San Frutuoso
  • Italian Verbs Conjugated
  • Piazza Cavour
  • Rapallo's Home Page – With Link to the Month's Events
  • Slow Travel
  • The Informer – The Online Guide to Living in Italy
  • Transportation Planner for Liguria
  • Trenitalia – trains! Still the most fun way to travel.

C. Elaborations

  • A Policeman’s View
  • Driving School Diary
  • IVA refunds due for past Rifiuti tax payements
  • Nana
  • Old trains and old weekends
  • The peasant, the Virgin, the spring and the ikon
  • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland?

D. Good Recipes - Best of the Week winners are starred

  • 'Mbriulata
  • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
  • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
  • *Crimson Pie*
  • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
  • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana*
  • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
  • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
  • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
  • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
  • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast*
  • *Spezzatini di Vitello*
  • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
  • *Stuffed Peaches (Pesche Ripiene)*
  • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
  • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
  • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
  • *Three P's Pasta*
  • *Tzatziki*
  • 10th Tee Oatmeal Apricot Bars
  • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
  • Aspic
  • Bagna-calda
  • Best Brownies in the World
  • Clafoutis
  • Cold cucumber soup
  • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
  • Easy spring or summer pasta
  • Fish in the Ligurian Style
  • Hilary's Spicy Rain Forest Chop
  • Insalata Caprese
  • Lasagna al forno
  • Lasagna al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
  • Lemon Meringue Pie
  • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
  • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
  • Louis’s apricot chutney
  • Mom's Sicilian Bruschetta
  • No-Knead (almost) Bread
  • Nonna Salamone's Christmas Cookies
  • Pan Fried Noodles with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
  • Pesto, the classic and original method
  • Pesto, the modern, less authentic method
  • Pickle Relish
  • Poached pears
  • Poached Pears
  • Polenta Cuncia
  • Recipes from Paradise by Fred Plotkin
  • Rustic Hearth Bread
  • Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup
  • Sicilian salad
  • Slow Food Liguria
  • Slow Food Piemonte and Val d'Aosta
  • Spinach with Garlic, Pine Nuts and Raisins
  • Stuffed Eggs, Piemontese Style
  • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
  • Tomato Aspic
  • Zucchini Raita

E. Blogroll

  • 2 Baci in a Pinon Tree
  • Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino
  • An American in Rome
  • Bella Baita View
  • Debra & Liz's Bagni di Lucca Blog
  • Expat Blog
  • Food Lovers Odyssey
  • Italian Food Forever
  • L’Orto Orgolioso
  • La Avventura – La Mia Vita Sarda
  • La Cucina
  • La Tavola Marche
  • Rubber Slippers in Italy
  • Southern Fried French
  • Status Viatoris
  • Tour del Gelato
  • Weeds and Wisdom

Photographs

  • A Day on the Phoenix Light Rail Metro
  • Apache Trail in the Snow
  • Aquileia and Croatia
  • Birds on the Golf Course
  • Bridge Art
  • Canadair Fire Fighters
  • Cats of Italy
  • Cloudy day walk from Nozarego to Portofino
  • Fiera del Bestiame e Agricultura
  • Football Finds a Home in San Maurizio
  • Hiking Dogs
  • Mercatino dei Sapori – Food Fair!
  • Moto Models
  • Olive pressing
  • Rapallo Gardens
  • Rapallo's Festa Patronale
  • Ricaldone and the Rinaldi Winery
  • Rice Fields
  • Sardegna ~ Arbatax and Tortoli
  • Sardegna ~ San Pietro above Baunei
  • Sardegna ~ The Festa in Baunei
  • Scotland, including Isle of Skye
  • Slow Food 2008 Salone del Gusto
  • The Cat Show and the Light Rail Fair
  • The desert in bloom
  • Trip to Bavaria

Pages

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Archives

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  • The MAC
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