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Our cousins invited us to help out at their Vendemia in Piemonte this past weekend, an invitation we eagerly await every year. The vendemia is the annual grape harvest, and from all reports this is one of the best years ever, in terms of both quantity and quality. There was lots of rain early in the season, and then it was dry for a couple of weeks, which made the fruit very sweet.
It’s a family affair in a big way. Our cousins’ extended family includes three generations ranging in age from 17 months to I’m-not-telling (but I would guess early 80’s), probably about 35 people including the children who are too young to pick.
All the grapes are cut from the vine by hand. Fortunately the vines are well managed, and most of the grapes seem to grow between knee and shoulder height.


We put the bunches of grapes in plastic buckets which are then emptied into the bucket loader of a small tractor.

This in turn is dumped into the trailer. With so many willing workers, their vineyard is harvested in about a day and a half. Usually, one of the uncles told me, they collect two medium trailers full of grapes. This year there was a small load, a medium load, and a huge load:

Later in the afternoon the vineyard manager, who takes care of several vineyards in the area, appears with his big tractor and hauls the grapes to the place where they are pressed (in this case Cascina Orsola, some 38 km distant).

It’s a LOT of work (my estimate is about 250 person-hours) and while everyone loves doing it, they are also very happy when it’s finished for another year.

Then comes one of the highlights of the weekend: the communal meal! The older generation used to have a fish restaurant in Genova, so the cooking is outstanding. This year they served us the world’s most delicate and light lasagna, roast beef with drippings, french fries, eggplant that was lemony and garlicky, fruit, cheese and home-baked cake.

There are small and medium-sized family owned vineyards all through this part of Piemonte. I imagine the scenes above are repeated a hundred-fold at this season, each with a different cast of characters and a slightly different view. This must have been what farming was like back in the days before agri-business took over, both in the US and here. It’s refreshing that it still exists.
If what ‘they’ say is true, there will be some superb wines coming from this years’ grapes. So Salute! Cincin! Bottoms up!
How fun! I’ve always wanted to help with something like this … maybe next year!
Bet there are plenty of people who would welcome some help. And it’s fun work!
A friend and I were very lucky to help with Vendemia in Cinque Terre on Sept. 15th. It was a smaller operation, no tractors and it was on terraced land with 5 or 6 pickers and the rest of the help hauling and pressing in the cantina. The grapes (white) were amazing. We picked enough for maybe 500 bottles this year. Like you said, the communal meal afterwards was the best. It included red and white wine from last year and Sciacchetro’ for dessert. It was the best experience of our 15 day trip.
What a wonderful experience you’ve had. It’s a lot of work, but fun when done with a big group, and the results are so rewarding… I’m so glad you got to enjoy a vendemia, especially as it’s such a good year.
I just visited Piemonte for the first time last month. I stayed at Diana Baur’s B&B.
That area is incredible and I really enjoyed our visit to a family owned vineyard.
I agree with you that it’s refreshing this kind of farming still exists.
Didn’t you LOVE Piemonte??! I follow Diana’s blog and admire all their hard work so much. It really is an under-celebrated part of Italy… which is part of the reason it’s so nice, I think.
Sounds like a great event with lots of sweat and festivities, not to mention good food!
The best part is being counted as part of the family!
Just wanted to say I found your blog this morning and really am enjoying reading it.
We have a small backyard vineyard which will take two people a few hours to harvest, so it was interesting for me to see a much larger production.
Welcome and thanks for finding me! A backyard vineyard sounds perfect – are you in Italy? Do you make your own wine, what kind, how much? Am I being too nosy?
“from all reports this is one of the best years ever”
…so they are saying down here in the South, too! Our harvest isn’t for a little bit more, though.
As for the entire process, it’s amazing to watch – and take part – but the communal meal is by far the best!! 🙂
I just found some pics from 2003 vendemia – the processing at the cooperativa – so organized and efficient! Hope your vendemia goes well…
So very beautiful…and what I’d like to see now is an old-fashioned pigiatura…starring you!
That Would be fun… alas, it wasn’t part of the program. Maybe next year? (I’ll be sure to wash my feet!)