• Contact
  • Elaborations
    • A Policeman’s View
    • Driving School Diary
    • Great Danes
    • IVA charged on Tassa Rifiuti
    • Nana
    • Old trains and Old weekends
    • The peasant, the virgin, the spring and the ikon
    • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland??
  • Recipes
    • ‘Mbriulata
    • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
    • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
    • *Cherry Tart*
    • *Crimson Pie*
    • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
    • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana* – Eggplant Parmesan
    • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
    • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
    • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
    • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
    • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast* on the rotisserie
    • *Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup*
    • *Spezzatino di Vitello*
    • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
    • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
    • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
    • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
    • *Tzatziki*
    • 10th Tee Apricot Bars
    • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
    • Artichoke Parmigiano Dip
    • Best Brownies in the World
    • Clafoutis
    • Cod the Way Sniven Likes It
    • Cold Cucumber Soup
    • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
    • Easy spring or summer pasta
    • Fagioli all’ucelleto
    • Fish in the Ligurian Style
    • Hilary’s Spicy Rain Forest Chop
    • Insalata Caprese
    • Kumquat and Cherry Upside Down Cake
    • Lasagna Al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
    • Lemon Meringue Pie
    • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
    • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
    • Louis’s Apricot Chutney
    • Mom’s Sicilian Bruschetta
    • No-Knead Bread (almost)
    • Nonna Salamone’s Famous Christmas Cookies
    • Pan-fried Noodles, with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
    • Pesto
    • Pesto
    • Pickle Relish
    • Poached Pears
    • Polenta Cuncia
    • Pumpkin Sformato with Fonduta and Frisee
    • Rustic Hearth Bread
    • Sicilian Salad
    • Soused Hog’s Face
    • Spotted Dick
    • Swedish Tea Wreaths
    • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
    • Tomato Aspic
    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
    • Winter Squash or Pumpkin Gratin
    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Monthly Archives: October 2010

Fabulous Italian Footwear

31 Sunday Oct 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian men, Italian style, Italian women

≈ 10 Comments

Tags

High tops, Portofino, Portofino wedding, Shoes, Wedding attire, Wedding shoes

Recently we took a friend over to see Portofino, and were well rewarded for the effort when we came upon a young bride and groom having a photo-shoot at Chiesa San Giorgio, above the port.

Aren’t they adorable?  That’s Castello Brown in the background.  And no, we have no idea who this happy couple is.  At first we just thought, ‘aw shucks, how sweet…’  Then we got a closer look at the groom and noticed his unusual footwear:

Hey!  Those are blue high tops!  What an improvement over tight shiny leather when you have to be on your feet and feeling your best for the afternoon and evening.  But best of all was when we realized that the bride went to the same shoemaker:

I don’t know which I like better, the blue or the yellow.  I think maybe the yellow.  The bigger question, though, is this: is this the new Wedding Style for the year ahead?  Will all brides and grooms be cantering down the aisle in athletic footwear?  Not a bad idea, now that I think of it, very handy when they try to escape from all those people who are throwing things at them after the ceremony.  And oh!  how comfortable!

Stuffed Eggs Piemontese Style

28 Thursday Oct 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Food, Italian recipes, Piemonte, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Deviled Eggs, Egg recipes, stuffed eggs

A stuffed egg is a wonderful thing. Eggs in general have suffered a lot of bad press from the cholesterol police, but for some of us they remain irresistible. I’ve always been a passionate enjoyer of stuffed eggs. My recipe is simple – it calls for the boiled eggs, mayo, a bit of mustard, and a parsley sprig on top for decoration.

On a recent visit to Piemonte our friend Leo taught me his recipe for stuffed eggs. It is a different animal altogether, not nearly as cloying as my recipe; no doubt it is healthier.

Here’s what you’ll need:

Eggs, as many as you want
A big handful of fresh Italian (flat) parsley, leaves only
2 or 3 anchovies
a piece of bread, broken into pieces and soaked in milk
olive oil
vinegar

The first step is to hard-boil the eggs, of course, then peel them, slice in half and remove the yolks.  Put half the yolks in a bowl, and save the other half for some other use (or salt and pepper them and eat them in the kitchen when no one is looking).

Next finely chop the parsley together with the anchovies and the bread, from which you’ve squeezed the excess milk.  Your mixture will look something like this:
Note the mezaluna – if you haven’t got one in your kitchen you may want to consider getting one and learning how to use it – it can really cut down chopping time.  Plus it’s loads of fun to use.

Smush the egg yolks with a fork and add to them the parsley mixture.

Mix in enough oil to make a nice clumpy filling for the eggs, and add just a dash of vinegar to brighten the flavor.  Nibble a bit and add salt and pepper to taste.

The rest you know.  Fill the eggs, arrange on a plate and serve.  My plate above was rather plain; Leo later decorated it with sage leaves and it looked a lot prettier.

Like all ‘deviled’ eggs these have mysterious evaporative properties; just look away for a moment and you’ll discover half of them are gone!

A Slice of Humble Pie

24 Sunday Oct 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Golf, Italy, Rapallo, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Comitato Italiano Paralimpico, golf carts, Golf in Italy, Handicapped golf in Italy, Italian golf, Sports for the handicapped

Every golfer begins each round with a handicap, but some golfers wake up every morning with a handicap.  Recently at Rapallo we were privileged to watch a tournament for people who may not be able to jump out of bed and walk down to breakfast, but are still motivated to get out and play golf.

The Comitato Italiano Paralimpico sponsored a two-day golf tournament at the Rapallo Golf and Tennis Club, and they had a full roster of entrants. (If you’re handicapped and want to participate in a sport, take a look at the Paralimpico website – you will be amazed, I think, at the scope of activities available.)

The Captain and I visited briefly on the first afternoon, and were truly humbled by the spirit – and skill! – of the golfers we watched.  We weren’t there long enough to get too many photos, but this Italian man was kind enough to allow me to take his picture.

His shot?  It was was straight and true, and went about half the distance to the little flag you can barely see at the end of the fairway.


Isn’t that an amazing vehicle? It’s the Parabasetec by Paragolfer.  If you want to see it in action, click here for a Youtube demo.  A similar vehicle is made by Powergolfer; we saw a number of those on the course.

Paraplegics were not the only golfers present.  Some people were missing a leg or two and played with prostheses; others had muscular dystrophy.  Several, like this man, were blind.  I know!  But you should have seen his shot – it was excellent.

Of course many of these sportspeople (yes, there were some women playing too) needed some assistance to play.  For instance, in the case of the man above the volunteer placed the ball on the tee, and held the head of the driver on the ball so the player could position himself appropriately.  A legion of wonderful volunteers from the Golf Club gave their time to make the event a great success, and happily the weather co-operated as well.  Golfers came from all over Europe as well as the United States.

There was a gala dinner at the end of the second day of the competition.  Rapallo’s Sindaco (the mayor), Avvocato  Campodonico, was present, as were a number of gents in very impressive uniforms.

So… if either one of us ever feels cast down because we didn’t hit the ball well, all we have to do is remember the golfers we met on a late October day in Rapallo.  We truly were humbled by the spirit, sense of fun, good sportsmanship and excellent play that we witnessed that day.

GONE GOLFIN'

 

A Visit to the Bank – Part 2 of Daring Exposé of Italian Banking Practices

19 Tuesday Oct 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian banks, Italian bureaucracy, Italian habits and customs, Uncategorized

≈ 10 Comments

Going to the bank in Italy is never a casual affair.  For starters, you have to remember when your branch is open, and try to get there early so the line will not be too long.  Typically the banks are open most of the morning and an hour or two in the afternoon.  Drive through banking?

Not for you in Italy, and certainly not for your dog.

Though come to think of it, there is an element of drive-through banking that exists here.  You know those plastic tubes that you put your transaction in if you’re at a drive-through bank bay away from the teller’s window?  There’s some sort of pneumatic whoosh and the plastic tube is whisked away to the desk of the person who can take care of your business.  A minute or two later it arrives back with another whoosh, containing your receipt.  Well, when you want to enter many banks here you step into something that looks like a person-sized version of that plastic tube.  One side of the tube slides open, you step into the tube, the open side closes, you stand there trying not to panic, and then, finally, the bank side of the tube opens and you are in the lobby.  Phew!  At least you don’t have to do the whooshing bits.

Once safely inside you take a number and wait your turn.  With luck your wait will not be more than 5 or 10 minutes.  You can do all the usual things at an Italian bank, it just takes longer.  People don’t use checks in Italy as much as in the U.S.  Frequently if you have a bill to pay you will go to the bank and pay what you owe directly into the other person’s account.  Which of course means that if I owe you money, you will give me your account number.  Why thank you!  Many times bills come with a payment/deposit form (called a ‘bollo’) attached, which has the payee’s bank info and the amount owed already printed on it.  Here’s what a blank one looks like (click on the image to see it in a more legible form):

You or the bank employee fill in the right side, which includes payee’s bank account #, amount to be paid, reason for payment (!), name and address of payee.  The part on the left is your receipt and proof of payment.

I watched a bank employee (let’s call him Carlo) dealing with a check the man in front of me had evidently deposited.  First Carlo stamped the check.  Then he ran it through some kind of scanning machine.  Then he took his scissors and nipped one corner off the check.  Then he paper-clipped it to a large form, signed the form and stamped it,  and put it on top of his to-do pile.  I was there to make a deposit in the checking account which is, mysteriously, in only my husband’s name.  It led to this very amusing exchange:

Me: “I’d like to make a versamento (deposit) and this is my account number.”

Carlo: “Is your account in this bank?”

Me: “No, it’s in the Zoagli branch.”

Carlo.  “Ah.  Zoagli.”  big sigh.

Me:  “Is there a problem?”

Carlo, haltingly: “No, no…” followed by much tapping at his keyboard.  A long pause.  “Captain Captain is the name on the account?”

Me, delighted: “Yes!  That’s the account.”

very long pause

Carlo: “The address is That Wee Village Road, #27?”

Me:  “That’s right.”    longer pause, worried (both of us).

Carlo: “This account has a masculine name; you are a woman.”

Me: seeing the light (and rather glad he noticed): “Ah yes… that is my husband’s account.”

Carlo, in great relief: “Good, good, alright then. Your husband.  You are the wife.”  Paper in machine, tap-tap-tap, paper out, my signature, his signature, stamp, stamp.

Success!

Here are some of the quirky (to us) things about Italian banks.  1) Various branches of the same bank are not necessarily connected to each other electronically.  They are always happier if you do your banking in your particular branch.  2) Should you write a check to someone, it is not returned to you canceled after it has been cashed.  Nor is it returned to your bank.  It stays in whichever bank your payee deposited it.  Which means if you need to capture proof that you’ve paid someone, you need to know where he stashed the loot.  3) A mortgage is readily available, especially if you can prove that you already have the money to pay it all back.  4) The Post Office is also a bank, and judging from what we see in the lobby, it does more business with banking than with mail.  But you can’t buy a stamp at your bank.  5) Sometimes other agencies serve as banks – for instance, we pay our vehicle insurance and tax bills at the Automobile Club of Italy.  6) Sometimes one bank will be an agent for a particular vender, so you can pay your bill at that bank for no charge or a small charge, whereas paying it at a different bank will carry a larger charge.

But for all their quirks, and for all the waiting and complications and charges, we have always found the people who work in the banks to be invariably patient and helpful.  We are not always good at explaining what we want, and we frequently don’t know the correct words, but the bank employees work with us for as long as it takes to make us satisfied customers.  And not just for us foreigners; they are courteous and helpful to everyone.  I expect that is part of what makes for the long waits…

Why I was late in arriving…

15 Friday Oct 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Driving in Italy

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Man pushing boat

Traffic was slow that day.

There must be a better way…

Hidden Charges – Part 1 of Daring Exposé of Italian Banking Practices

09 Saturday Oct 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian banks, Italian bureaucracy, Italian habits and customs, Uncategorized

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

Bank charges in Italy

We have gotten so accustomed in the U.S. to banks being very open about the charges they make – not because they necessarily want to be, but because they are obliged to by law.  We’re spoiled in the U.S.!  We get free checking accounts, free credit cards, and if we go on the right day, free donuts and coffee.

It’s not as simple here (and I don’t mean just the donuts and coffee, which I have never, ever seen in an Italian bank lobby, never mind finding a bank branch in a super market or even a donut shop as you can in the U.S.). Every service the bank provides carries a charge.  It’s not that they’re hidden, exactly; we do receive a long list annually of bank services and their attendant fees.  It’s just that they are so unexpected.  We see them on the quarterly statement (quarterly!) that the bank provides… for a fee of E 5.70 every two months (actually, this fee is for the stamp that attests that the account is… what?  is something!  Correct? Still there?).

There’s a mysterious fee on each statement which is called ‘interessi e competenze’, usually about E5 or 6.  I can’t figure out exactly what it’s for; as it’s levied only once a quarter, perhaps this is the fee for the statement.  Anyway.  To my mind ‘interest’ is something the bank pays us for being kind enough to let them use our money.  To the Italian banker’s mind, ‘interest’ is something to be charged on a checking account.

One gets Telepass, the Italian equivalent of E-Z Pass  for automated payment of highway tolls, at the bank (I know!  Why??!) and it’s easy to arrange to have your tolls deducted right from your account.  Back when we first started with Telepass we had to pay a monthly fee for that convenience.  Fortunately in the last few years that fee has been dropped.  However, the bank gets a commission on your Telepass charges; not a lot (about 1.50 on our last statement), but still.

My favorite charge is the one we pay every month for the privilege of accessing our account online.  That’s E2.  Each month.  However, if we make two bill payments in one month  through online banking, the fee is waived for that month.  We’re not always able to do that, as not many places are set up for automated payment in this manner.  Recharging the cell phone credit is one good way to accomplish this mission, though.

Things are better than they were.  Of the 61 activities listed for a checking account for which the bank could charge, the 2007  list of applicable charges      reports 30 have been repealed and another 13 are listed with a charge of 0.  That leaves a mere 18 activities which carry charges.  It just happens that they are the very things many people do on a regular basis – use Telepass, access the bank online, carry a debit card.  To give them credit though (ha ha), they do not charge a per-use for the debit card.

I guess we shouldn’t complain.  The banks are open Monday-Friday from 8:30 to 12:15 and again from 3:45-4:30 – that’s real convenience!  The ATM’s, which we use to transfer US money to Italy (the easiest way to do it, and what we recommend to all traveling friends), frequently work, which is handy. That’s an improvement from ‘sometimes,’ which was the best they could do a few years ago.  In fact, I’ll give a little free advertising here to Deutsche Bank – their ATM’s always work (well, almost always), even when every other bank in town is spitting our card back with a suggestion to call our bank.

Bottom line?  Banks do very well in Italy.  You might want to invest in one!

Rapallo’s Pyramid

04 Monday Oct 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Rapallo, Uncategorized

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

Rapallo Lungomare

I.M. Pei has probably never visited Rapallo, but that hasn’t kept us from having our very own pyramid, which is quite reminiscent of the glass pyramid Pei designed for the Louvre Museum in Paris. Well, no, ours isn’t quite as large, but it does make its own quiet statement in the square on the Lungomare that holds the newly renovated bandstand.

In fact the whole of the piazza has been renovated over the last year or so, and that is why we have the pyramid in the first place.  It used to be that delivery trucks and cars could drive and park around the band shell; the road surface was removed and the piazza has been turned into a quite lovely pedestrian zone. While they were excavating the old road they came upon some stonework from the port, back when the sea came up almost to the buildings.  In the intervening years the Lungomare road and its neighboring broad seaside passagiata were built, evidently right on top of what was there before. Here’s what you see if you peer into our pyramid:

That’s a nice bit of stonework, isn’t it?  I would imagine the rusty hardware is an old mooring ring.  I think it’s great they took the trouble to preserve and show all of us a bit of maritime history. It would’ve been easier simply to cover it all up again.

Well, maybe it’s not quite as exciting as the Louvre.  But whenever I’m revisited by my lifelong and thus far unrealized wish to visit Egypt, I just go down to the Lungomare and gaze at the pyramid.

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A. Useful Links

  • bab.la language dictionary
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  • Conversions
  • English-Italian, Italian-English Dictionary
  • Expats Moving and Relocation Guide
  • Ferry Schedule Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino, San Frutuoso
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  • Rapallo's Home Page – With Link to the Month's Events
  • Slow Travel
  • The Informer – The Online Guide to Living in Italy
  • Transportation Planner for Liguria
  • Trenitalia – trains! Still the most fun way to travel.

C. Elaborations

  • A Policeman’s View
  • Driving School Diary
  • IVA refunds due for past Rifiuti tax payements
  • Nana
  • Old trains and old weekends
  • The peasant, the Virgin, the spring and the ikon
  • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland?

D. Good Recipes - Best of the Week winners are starred

  • 'Mbriulata
  • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
  • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
  • *Crimson Pie*
  • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
  • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana*
  • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
  • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
  • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
  • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
  • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast*
  • *Spezzatini di Vitello*
  • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
  • *Stuffed Peaches (Pesche Ripiene)*
  • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
  • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
  • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
  • *Three P's Pasta*
  • *Tzatziki*
  • 10th Tee Oatmeal Apricot Bars
  • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
  • Aspic
  • Bagna-calda
  • Best Brownies in the World
  • Clafoutis
  • Cold cucumber soup
  • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
  • Easy spring or summer pasta
  • Fish in the Ligurian Style
  • Hilary's Spicy Rain Forest Chop
  • Insalata Caprese
  • Lasagna al forno
  • Lasagna al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
  • Lemon Meringue Pie
  • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
  • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
  • Louis’s apricot chutney
  • Mom's Sicilian Bruschetta
  • No-Knead (almost) Bread
  • Nonna Salamone's Christmas Cookies
  • Pan Fried Noodles with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
  • Pesto, the classic and original method
  • Pesto, the modern, less authentic method
  • Pickle Relish
  • Poached pears
  • Poached Pears
  • Polenta Cuncia
  • Recipes from Paradise by Fred Plotkin
  • Rustic Hearth Bread
  • Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup
  • Sicilian salad
  • Slow Food Liguria
  • Slow Food Piemonte and Val d'Aosta
  • Spinach with Garlic, Pine Nuts and Raisins
  • Stuffed Eggs, Piemontese Style
  • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
  • Tomato Aspic
  • Zucchini Raita

E. Blogroll

  • 2 Baci in a Pinon Tree
  • Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino
  • An American in Rome
  • Bella Baita View
  • Debra & Liz's Bagni di Lucca Blog
  • Expat Blog
  • Food Lovers Odyssey
  • Italian Food Forever
  • L’Orto Orgolioso
  • La Avventura – La Mia Vita Sarda
  • La Cucina
  • La Tavola Marche
  • Rubber Slippers in Italy
  • Southern Fried French
  • Status Viatoris
  • Tour del Gelato
  • Weeds and Wisdom

Photographs

  • A Day on the Phoenix Light Rail Metro
  • Apache Trail in the Snow
  • Aquileia and Croatia
  • Birds on the Golf Course
  • Bridge Art
  • Canadair Fire Fighters
  • Cats of Italy
  • Cloudy day walk from Nozarego to Portofino
  • Fiera del Bestiame e Agricultura
  • Football Finds a Home in San Maurizio
  • Hiking Dogs
  • Mercatino dei Sapori – Food Fair!
  • Moto Models
  • Olive pressing
  • Rapallo Gardens
  • Rapallo's Festa Patronale
  • Ricaldone and the Rinaldi Winery
  • Rice Fields
  • Sardegna ~ Arbatax and Tortoli
  • Sardegna ~ San Pietro above Baunei
  • Sardegna ~ The Festa in Baunei
  • Scotland, including Isle of Skye
  • Slow Food 2008 Salone del Gusto
  • The Cat Show and the Light Rail Fair
  • The desert in bloom
  • Trip to Bavaria

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