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  • Recipes
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    • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
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    • *Crimson Pie*
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    • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
    • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
    • *Tzatziki*
    • 10th Tee Apricot Bars
    • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
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    • Best Brownies in the World
    • Clafoutis
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    • Easy spring or summer pasta
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    • Hilary’s Spicy Rain Forest Chop
    • Insalata Caprese
    • Kumquat and Cherry Upside Down Cake
    • Lasagna Al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
    • Lemon Meringue Pie
    • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
    • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
    • Louis’s Apricot Chutney
    • Mom’s Sicilian Bruschetta
    • No-Knead Bread (almost)
    • Nonna Salamone’s Famous Christmas Cookies
    • Pan-fried Noodles, with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
    • Pesto
    • Pesto
    • Pickle Relish
    • Poached Pears
    • Polenta Cuncia
    • Pumpkin Sformato with Fonduta and Frisee
    • Rustic Hearth Bread
    • Sicilian Salad
    • Soused Hog’s Face
    • Spotted Dick
    • Swedish Tea Wreaths
    • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
    • Tomato Aspic
    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
    • Winter Squash or Pumpkin Gratin
    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Monthly Archives: July 2011

My New Passion

27 Wednesday Jul 2011

Posted by farfalle1 in Flowers, Food, gardening, Italian flowers, Uncategorized

≈ 17 Comments

Tags

Passion Fruit, Passion Fruit Flowers

No, the Captain still has my heart.  But just recently the fruit of the Passion Fruit made my taste buds sit up and say Howdy.  How did I live this long without eating this delectable item?


Angela and I were exploring some of the back regions of Chiavari when we came upon the vine pictured above.  From a distance I thought it was a strange looking kumquat with particularly large fruit; but when we got closer and saw the flowers that were also on the vine I knew right away what it was, even though I’d never seen the fruit before.


There’s no confusing this flower with any other in the world!  It looks like a cross between a spaceship and a freshman beanie; why ever did it evolve in such a peculiar manner?  No doubt there are good reasons for all its elements, but if there ever were a committee-designed flower, this is it.  I can even imagine the committee.

Goddess 1, chair of the committee:  We need a new flower.
Goddess 2: Let’s keep it simple, just some nice creamy petals.
Goddess 1:  A good plan.
Goddess 3:  I’m from Hawaii, I’d like to give it a hint of grass skirt.
Goddess 1:  Well okay, we’ll put that on top of the petals.  A’ole pilikia!
Goddess 4: I’m completely crazy, I want to add some green whirly-gigs with yellow pads. Have I told you about the time aliens abducted me??  They told me to add the whirly-gigs so they can communicate with me.
Goddess 1, in an aside: Girls, she is totally nuts, we’d better humor her.  Aloud: of course we’ll add whirly-gigs.  Live long and prosper.
Goddess 1, again:  Uh oh. We’ve left out the most important part!  We’ve left off the anther.  How are we going to get bees without anthers?  We’ve got to have anthers.  We’ll put them on top of everything, that way our flower’s sure to be pollinated.

Well that’s one way it could’ve happened I suppose, though I’m not sure Mr. Darwin would approve.

I first met the flowers of the Passion Fruit about ten years ago, rampaging along the fence of the house we were renting at the time.  A gardening friend later told me, “Don’t plant that.”  Evidently it is one of the thugs of the plant world, cheerfully twining around, strangling and generally taking over anything in its path.  And for some reason I haven’t seen or thought of it from that day to the day Angela and I encountered the very healthy vine in Chiavari.

Had I eaten the fruit ten years ago I surely would have found a spot in our garden for this treasure to run amok.  What a treat! Sweet, succulent, juicy… why have I never seen it for sale in the markets?

Yes, it’s seedy – it’s pretty much nothing but seeds inside (guess those anthers really do the job well), but the seeds are a pleasure to eat.  They’re not particularly hard or crunchy or unpleasant, the way pomegranate seeds are.  They’re just delicious; it’s the only way I can think to describe them.

Passion Fruit is native to Brazil, where it grows in a purple-skinned variety.  There seems to be some question about where the orange/yellow variety originated.  It’s a much-used fruit in Australia, New Zealand and Hawaii, among other places, and is a good source of vitamins A and C, and, if you eat the seeds, an excellent source of dietary fiber.

Image courtesy of Passaia

The juice is frequently extracted and used to flavor other juices and sauces.  If you’ve drunk a soft-drink called Passaia in Switzerland, you’ve drunk Passion Fruit juice.  Unfortunately the flavor of the juice degrades with heating, though it keeps well in a frozen form.

About its thuggish character?  All too true!  It can grow fifteen to twenty feet in one year; though it is a short lived perennial (only five to seven years), it can cover quite a bit of territory in that time.  (Let’s see, 17 X 7 = 119 feet, that is a lot… maybe that’s why I don’t see much of it in Italian terrace gardens.)  You can learn more about Passion Fruit varieties, propagation and cultivation here if you’re inclined to try growing some yourself.  Me?  I think I’ll just go back to the vine in Chiavari when I get a hankering for that yummy taste – there was no shortage of fruit on those vines.

Fireworks Addendum

23 Saturday Jul 2011

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian festas, Rapallo, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Festa di Rapallo, fireworks, Gianni Pistori, Pyrotechnics

As luck would have it we made the acquaintance of Gianni Pistori last weekend.  A man of wide and varied interests (rally driving, stamp collecting) he is a pyrotechnic expert.  In fact this year it was he who lit the Castello in Rapallo on June 3.  He began his work at 3:30 a.m. and finished at 2 a.m. the next morning – long work day.

We also learned that one of the Sestieri wins the fireworks competition and one, San Michele this year, loses.  The judges are all the experts who organize and set off the endless fireworks displays.  I’m uncertain what, if anything other than honor, the winning team receives.  The losers are given a large plastic toad.  I’ve been unable to get a photograph of the toad yet, but if I can get one I’ll be sure to share it.  When last heard of, the toad had been carried (by Gianni, who else?) up to Montallegro where it will reside in amphibian splendor and solitude until next year.

Thank you Tay and Gianni for all this useful and amusing information!

Who Knew: Basil

16 Saturday Jul 2011

Posted by farfalle1 in gardening, Italian recipes, Liguria, Uncategorized

≈ 10 Comments

Tags

Basil, Growing Basil, Pesto


I always thought that basil wanted to grow in full, hot sun, and certainly we’ve always had good luck growing it that way.  But two unimpeachable sources (gnarled old Italian gardeners) have told us in the last week that full, hot sun is only for growing basil for minestra, the vegetable soup many still eat for supper here.  If you want to  make pesto with your basil, you must grow it in partial sun; it will be more tender and better suited to pesto (recipe here).  Who knew?

Football… finally

10 Sunday Jul 2011

Posted by farfalle1 in Construction, San Maurizio di Monti, Uncategorized

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

Football, Soccer

How do you get from this:


To this??

As it turns out, slowly!

Our first indication of what was in store for San Maurizio’s children came when these signs were posted above the site of the annual Sgabei Fest:

Construction Details

Artistic rendering of the new soccer field

As you can see, the work was due to begin on September 8, 2009, which (more or less) it did; it was due to be finished in April of 2010, which it wasn’t, not by a long stretch.  The Grand Opening was held on June 19, 2011, more than a year  late.

It was an ambitious project, and was often thwarted by bad weather.  There were also long periods when nothing whatever was done.  San Maurizio is on a steep hill, and no doubt there were complications constructing an area large enough to accommodate a soccer field on the side of the mountain.

Or part of a soccer field, anyway.  It’s not full-size (though to my surprise there is not one standard size for soccer fields, though there is a standard range within which the field must fit).  One of my friends said that the dimensions of our new field will permit play between two teams of five each – which is probably about right for a little town like ours.  What matters is not the size of the field, but the fact that our kids will be able to play the game, which is a national passion in Italy.

The first bit of work was to build a road to the site.


This was done in 2009, with the major part of the remaining construction done in 2010.  New walls had to be built, a foundation for the field itself prepared, and a small building built (I hope to house a kitchen for future sgabei fests).  You can see most of these projects in various stages of completion below.


Now that it’s finished, the long delay doesn’t seem so important.  What is important is that the children of San Maurizio have a place to play and to hone their football skills.  It turns out it was well worth the wait.

Fireworks (of course!) to celebrate the Grand Opening

Sindico Campodonico kicks a ceremonial first ball

You can see an album of photos of the progress of the construction here. We were out of town for long periods, so there are gaps in the coverage. But it will give you a good idea of what went into this civic project.

September 4, 2011, addendum:  New plantings and a new building have been added to the soccer facility over the past week!

We still haven’t seen any game playing, but maybe now that the weather has turned cooler the children will get out their soccer balls.  I hope.

Rapallo Castello Attacked and Burned!

04 Monday Jul 2011

Posted by farfalle1 in Holidays, Italian Churches, Italian festas, Italian holidays, Photographs, Uncategorized

≈ 12 Comments

Tags

fireworks, Madonna di Montallegro, Rapallo's Festa Patronale

Not really – it’s simply the culmination of three days of pyrotechnic excess at the hands of Rapallo’s Sestieri, all in honor of the Madonna of Montallegro, patron saint of our city.  (The ‘sestieri’ are the six districts of the town – they have no administrative function, but rather are historic and traditional divisions, and serve to provide lively rivalry in the fireworks arena.)

It began at 8 a.m. on Friday morning (July 1) with a half hour of ka-booms provided by all the Sestieri  in honor of the Madonna.  Subsequent fireworks took place at 10:15 p.m. with another Salute to the Madonna (these are a great many very loud explosions, without the fanciful colors and light of fireworks) and at 10:30 p.m. two separate fireworks displays, each provided by one of the Sestieri.

I never thought much of daytime firework shows, but we happened to be in town at mid-day on Saturday when there was a short ‘Sparata del Panegirico”, that is, ‘Praise with Noise.’  The show turned out to be rather pretty and amusing:


In addition to colorful smoke, the onshore breeze showered us all with bits of cardboard debris, flag-bearing soccer balls and parachutes delivering who-knows-what:


That evening there was another mortar Salute to the Madonna followed by another two fireworks shows, again each the work of two other of the sestieri.

Sunday, the final day of the Festa, gave us a Salute at 10 p.m. followed by the famous Procession of the crosses and the icon from Montallegro. Sadly we arrived too late to see the Procession this year, but here are a few photos from 2009:

Just a few of the many crosses on parade

A very strong man, one of the cross-bearers

The famous icon, barely visible amidst all the silver

Change of porter

The Archbishop

That year’s crop of confirmands

At 10:15 or thereabouts there was another Sparata and short fireworks with the annual Burning of the Castello which you’ve seen in the first photo above.  After an interminable wait there was a lengthy series of Saluti alla Madonna issuing from various public parks around the city, all very loud and exciting.  I have not a doubt in the world that the Madonna heard them and came to watch the last two of the annual fireworks shows that followed.


There are many other activities associated with the annual ‘Solenni Festeggiamenti in Onore di N.S. di Montallegro, Patrona di Rapallo e del Suo Antico Capitaneato,’ principally masses and musical offerings.  It’s a full three days – and it happens every year.  It’s proximity to the 4th of July is a happy coincidence for Americans like us… fireworks and the 4th go together like, well,  hotdogs and beer.  Happy Festa della Madonna!  Happy Fourth of July!

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