• Contact
  • Elaborations
    • A Policeman’s View
    • Driving School Diary
    • Great Danes
    • IVA charged on Tassa Rifiuti
    • Nana
    • Old trains and Old weekends
    • The peasant, the virgin, the spring and the ikon
    • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland??
  • Recipes
    • ‘Mbriulata
    • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
    • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
    • *Cherry Tart*
    • *Crimson Pie*
    • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
    • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana* – Eggplant Parmesan
    • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
    • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
    • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
    • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
    • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast* on the rotisserie
    • *Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup*
    • *Spezzatino di Vitello*
    • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
    • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
    • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
    • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
    • *Tzatziki*
    • 10th Tee Apricot Bars
    • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
    • Artichoke Parmigiano Dip
    • Best Brownies in the World
    • Clafoutis
    • Cod the Way Sniven Likes It
    • Cold Cucumber Soup
    • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
    • Easy spring or summer pasta
    • Fagioli all’ucelleto
    • Fish in the Ligurian Style
    • Hilary’s Spicy Rain Forest Chop
    • Insalata Caprese
    • Kumquat and Cherry Upside Down Cake
    • Lasagna Al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
    • Lemon Meringue Pie
    • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
    • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
    • Louis’s Apricot Chutney
    • Mom’s Sicilian Bruschetta
    • No-Knead Bread (almost)
    • Nonna Salamone’s Famous Christmas Cookies
    • Pan-fried Noodles, with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
    • Pesto
    • Pesto
    • Pickle Relish
    • Poached Pears
    • Polenta Cuncia
    • Pumpkin Sformato with Fonduta and Frisee
    • Rustic Hearth Bread
    • Sicilian Salad
    • Soused Hog’s Face
    • Spotted Dick
    • Swedish Tea Wreaths
    • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
    • Tomato Aspic
    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
    • Winter Squash or Pumpkin Gratin
    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Monthly Archives: July 2013

Construction on a Steep Slope

26 Friday Jul 2013

Posted by farfalle1 in Building, Construction, Liguria, San Maurizio di Monti, Uncategorized

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Construction using helicopters

The hills above Rapallo leap quickly to a height of about 600 meters (about 2,000 feet) at La Crocetta, the pass above Rapallo, this in the space of perhaps 2.5 miles as the crow flies (a lot longer as the car drives). In the olden days when there were no cars people navigated between points on ancient roads or paths that connected all the little towns. Many houses were built in what, after the birth of the auto, became completely remote and inaccessible locations. So, if you buy a rustico and want to restore it, how do you get your materials in place, given that you’re perched on a steep slope and there is no road to your rustico?

Easy!

construction helicopter

We were enjoying a calm breakfast when the peace was shattered by nearby rotors. They got very loud, then they got slightly softer, then they got very loud again. It turned out the helicopter was ferrying construction materials to a worksite on the hillside across from us.

construction helicopter-003

construction helicopter-004

It sounds like an expensive and impractical way to move material, but in about six trips over the course of half an hour the helicopter brought in mysterious supplies encased in large white plastic bags, as well as some steel. Someone will soon have a beautifully restored rustico. But will they need to use a helicopter to reach it??

Bird Man of Rapallo

18 Thursday Jul 2013

Posted by farfalle1 in Animals in Italy, Birds in Italy, Italian men, People, Portraits of people, Rapallo, Uncategorized

≈ 10 Comments

Tags

Bird man, Pappagallo

Strolling through town the other day (before it got so hot)  I was pleased to encounter this eccentric gent. He was happy to pose for me with his little bird. I wasn’t expecting the kissing event, but evidently it’s something they’re both accustomed to. I wonder if the bird thinks he has a very well-trained man?

bird man of rapallo-002

Sorry it’s out of focus, but it’s a nice shot of the tourist in the background. This is how they walk around together; every now and then the bird nibbles the man’s gold necklace.

bird man of Rapallo

After I asked if I could photograph him the man struck a pose. I particularly like the man’s costume with its northward nod to the Alps and its westward nod to France.

bird man of rapallo-001

Wasn’t expecting this, and I have to say it kind of grossed me out! The bird took little nips at the man’s tongue, which made me suspect that sometimes the man gives the bird treats in this unorthodox manner. When I asked what the bird’s name was the man replied, ‘pappagallo,’ which just means ‘parrot.’ I felt no wiser, but was somehow unable to continue the conversation.

The Best Thing We Ate This Week: Cherry Tart

12 Friday Jul 2013

Posted by farfalle1 in American recipes, Uncategorized

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

Cherries, Cherry tartlet

The cherries were very late this year and because of the cold rainy spring many of them matured and spoiled without getting sweet.  I would guess that about only a third of our cherries ripened to red juicy sweetness on the tree.  Most years we have cherries I make jam, but with the reduced quantity this year we simply ate most of them.  As our dwindling reserves began to go bad, I decided to make a pair of small cherry tarts for our tea-time, even though we’re both stouter than we want to be and are trying to ‘do something’ about it.

cherry tart-003

Was it good?

cherry tart half eaten

Yes it was! If you have a few cherries, not enough for a pie or jam, why not throw together a cherry tart? It takes very little time and is a true seasonal treat. You can read how I made mine here.

Men in White

07 Sunday Jul 2013

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian men, Uncategorized

≈ 12 Comments

Tags

Human statues, Street performers

man in white

Photo credit: Hilary Hatch

We see these men (and sometimes women) in white in all the tourist towns of Italy. I don’t recall ever seeing one in the U.S. – maybe in the larger cities? Anyone ever seen one in New York or San Francisco?

The best remain absolutely motionless until someone drops a coin in the bucket. Then they slowly move in some form of acknowledgment. This man, whom we found in Lucca, was a hand-kisser. Some merely bow or regally raise a hand to say ‘thanks.’ The amateurs among them will sometimes wear a white mask, presumably so they can make faces and move at least some part of their bodies. The other day in Rapallo I saw a boy in white who had simply given up and was striding down the street thrusting his cap at people to ask for money.

It’s hard to imagine who came up with the idea of being rewarded for standing still; but it must be a good idea because a lot of people do it, and if it didn’t pay at least something they wouldn’t. I wonder if anyone would pay if the person weren’t done up to look like a white statue? Evidently some people simply can’t resist touching the statues to see if they’re real. It doesn’t always work out well, as this video from Australia illustrates.

still man

Hilary gets a handshake

margaret gets a handshake

This ‘statue’  works in Lucca, although the box he’s standing on says SPQR, which is the motto of Rome. (Senatus Populusque Romanus – the senate and people of Rome.)  While it dates from ancient Rome, it is now seen everywhere in the modern city; Speedy remembers that all the man-hole covers bear this acronym.

This man was particularly fun as he had a very pleasant expression, even while he was simply standing and waiting. It’s not a job I’d want, though; I can’t imagine standing still for any length of time, or being covered in white paint.

Where there’s smoke

04 Thursday Jul 2013

Posted by farfalle1 in Holidays, Italian Churches, Italian habits and customs, Italian holidays, Italy, Rapallo, Uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Festa patronale di Rapallo

Rapallo just celebrated her Festa Patronale in honor of the Virgin Mary. It is three days of madness in town (you can see some photos of various elements of the celebration, including the parade of crucifixes here) beginning with a huge volley of mortar fire at 8 a.m. on July 1st. This is followed by fireworks presented by the Sestiere at mid-day and evening on the 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Why anyone wants to fire off huge noisy mortars first thing in the morning is beyond me (they do it to greet and salute the Virgin, to let her know the Festa has begun; it closes with another cannonade last thing on the 3rd). But fire them off they do. We were congratulating ourselves for living up above the chaos and thus missing most of the smoke:

fireworks smoke

We were smug too soon, as it turned out. Half an hour later most of the smoke had drifted up our way, but by then it was dissipated enough not to matter.

During the Festa the cathedral in town is brightly lit:

Rapallo cathedral alight

Here are a few shots of the fireworks from rather far away on the night of the 3rd (our house – I just didn’t have the om-pah-pah to join the fray this year) . I like to think of them as our own private 4th of July.

fireworks-004

fireworks-005

fireworks-006

fireworks-008

fireworks-010

If you’re interested in Rapallo’s long relationship with the Virgin you can read about it here.

Happy 4th of July, everyone!

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A. Useful Links

  • bab.la language dictionary
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  • Conversions
  • English-Italian, Italian-English Dictionary
  • Expats Moving and Relocation Guide
  • Ferry Schedule Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino, San Frutuoso
  • Italian Verbs Conjugated
  • Piazza Cavour
  • Rapallo's Home Page – With Link to the Month's Events
  • Slow Travel
  • The Informer – The Online Guide to Living in Italy
  • Transportation Planner for Liguria
  • Trenitalia – trains! Still the most fun way to travel.

C. Elaborations

  • A Policeman’s View
  • Driving School Diary
  • IVA refunds due for past Rifiuti tax payements
  • Nana
  • Old trains and old weekends
  • The peasant, the Virgin, the spring and the ikon
  • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland?

D. Good Recipes - Best of the Week winners are starred

  • 'Mbriulata
  • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
  • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
  • *Crimson Pie*
  • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
  • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana*
  • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
  • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
  • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
  • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
  • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast*
  • *Spezzatini di Vitello*
  • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
  • *Stuffed Peaches (Pesche Ripiene)*
  • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
  • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
  • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
  • *Three P's Pasta*
  • *Tzatziki*
  • 10th Tee Oatmeal Apricot Bars
  • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
  • Aspic
  • Bagna-calda
  • Best Brownies in the World
  • Clafoutis
  • Cold cucumber soup
  • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
  • Easy spring or summer pasta
  • Fish in the Ligurian Style
  • Hilary's Spicy Rain Forest Chop
  • Insalata Caprese
  • Lasagna al forno
  • Lasagna al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
  • Lemon Meringue Pie
  • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
  • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
  • Louis’s apricot chutney
  • Mom's Sicilian Bruschetta
  • No-Knead (almost) Bread
  • Nonna Salamone's Christmas Cookies
  • Pan Fried Noodles with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
  • Pesto, the classic and original method
  • Pesto, the modern, less authentic method
  • Pickle Relish
  • Poached pears
  • Poached Pears
  • Polenta Cuncia
  • Recipes from Paradise by Fred Plotkin
  • Rustic Hearth Bread
  • Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup
  • Sicilian salad
  • Slow Food Liguria
  • Slow Food Piemonte and Val d'Aosta
  • Spinach with Garlic, Pine Nuts and Raisins
  • Stuffed Eggs, Piemontese Style
  • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
  • Tomato Aspic
  • Zucchini Raita

E. Blogroll

  • 2 Baci in a Pinon Tree
  • Aglio, Olio & Peperoncino
  • An American in Rome
  • Bella Baita View
  • Debra & Liz's Bagni di Lucca Blog
  • Expat Blog
  • Food Lovers Odyssey
  • Italian Food Forever
  • L’Orto Orgolioso
  • La Avventura – La Mia Vita Sarda
  • La Cucina
  • La Tavola Marche
  • Rubber Slippers in Italy
  • Southern Fried French
  • Status Viatoris
  • Tour del Gelato
  • Weeds and Wisdom

Photographs

  • A Day on the Phoenix Light Rail Metro
  • Apache Trail in the Snow
  • Aquileia and Croatia
  • Birds on the Golf Course
  • Bridge Art
  • Canadair Fire Fighters
  • Cats of Italy
  • Cloudy day walk from Nozarego to Portofino
  • Fiera del Bestiame e Agricultura
  • Football Finds a Home in San Maurizio
  • Hiking Dogs
  • Mercatino dei Sapori – Food Fair!
  • Moto Models
  • Olive pressing
  • Rapallo Gardens
  • Rapallo's Festa Patronale
  • Ricaldone and the Rinaldi Winery
  • Rice Fields
  • Sardegna ~ Arbatax and Tortoli
  • Sardegna ~ San Pietro above Baunei
  • Sardegna ~ The Festa in Baunei
  • Scotland, including Isle of Skye
  • Slow Food 2008 Salone del Gusto
  • The Cat Show and the Light Rail Fair
  • The desert in bloom
  • Trip to Bavaria

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