• Contact
  • Elaborations
    • A Policeman’s View
    • Driving School Diary
    • Great Danes
    • IVA charged on Tassa Rifiuti
    • Nana
    • Old trains and Old weekends
    • The peasant, the virgin, the spring and the ikon
    • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland??
  • Recipes
    • ‘Mbriulata
    • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
    • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
    • *Cherry Tart*
    • *Crimson Pie*
    • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
    • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana* – Eggplant Parmesan
    • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
    • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
    • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
    • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
    • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast* on the rotisserie
    • *Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup*
    • *Spezzatino di Vitello*
    • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
    • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
    • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
    • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
    • *Tzatziki*
    • 10th Tee Apricot Bars
    • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
    • Artichoke Parmigiano Dip
    • Best Brownies in the World
    • Clafoutis
    • Cod the Way Sniven Likes It
    • Cold Cucumber Soup
    • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
    • Easy spring or summer pasta
    • Fagioli all’ucelleto
    • Fish in the Ligurian Style
    • Hilary’s Spicy Rain Forest Chop
    • Insalata Caprese
    • Kumquat and Cherry Upside Down Cake
    • Lasagna Al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
    • Lemon Meringue Pie
    • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
    • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
    • Louis’s Apricot Chutney
    • Mom’s Sicilian Bruschetta
    • No-Knead Bread (almost)
    • Nonna Salamone’s Famous Christmas Cookies
    • Pan-fried Noodles, with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
    • Pesto
    • Pesto
    • Pickle Relish
    • Poached Pears
    • Polenta Cuncia
    • Pumpkin Sformato with Fonduta and Frisee
    • Rustic Hearth Bread
    • Sicilian Salad
    • Soused Hog’s Face
    • Spotted Dick
    • Swedish Tea Wreaths
    • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
    • Tomato Aspic
    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
    • Winter Squash or Pumpkin Gratin
    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Author Archives: farfalle1

A Superior Visit

20 Sunday Jul 2025

Posted by farfalle1 in Arizona, Art in Arizona, Boyce Thompson Arboretum, Murals, Public Art, Superior Arizona, Uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

art, Bella's Cafe, Superior Arizona

Not long ago Hiking Buddy and I returned to Boyce Thompson Arboretum and the little town of Superior. We got off to an early start because these days it gets very hot very fast. In spite of the climbing mercury, we enjoyed a very pleasant visit to BTA, walking the main loop (fear-o-snakes kept us off the more rugged paths) and visiting the Wallace Collection. This extraordinary collection of over 5,800 plants and trees, originally situated in Scottsdale, began its move to BTA in cars, trucks and semis in late 2015. It was a mammoth undertaking; many of the plants and trees were well established and old, which means moving them was risky and tricky. Well over 90% of the specimens survived the 75 mile journey, a remarkable achievement. Hiking Bud and I had visited the collection shortly after the new 13-acre garden was opened; it was… well, new-seeming. The plants had not yet settled, the shade was spotty. To be blunt it was underwhelming. What a change a few years has made. The new garden is a delight, tempting trails lead hither and yon, signage is okay, and the whole garden has a welcoming feel. The plants are well-established and have filled in the former gaps. The Wallace Collection trails are in blue on the lower left of this map of the entire Arboretum.

After the exertions of our walk, we headed into one of our favorite places, Superior. One of the delights of Superior is driving around and admiring the murals painted on the buildings. The last time we visited Superior we were there to take a hike, and didn’t spend much time downtown. The last time we really looked at the buildings together was 2016, when we took a Superior House Tour, so we were due for a good bounce and gawk.

The Tucson Mural Project visited Superior in 2020 so their photos are a bit out of date. The murals change from time to time – weather takes a terrific toll on paint in the desert, new folks come along with a need to express themselves. It means that a repeat visit to this little town will always have something new to offer.

The food bank is covered with cheerful veggies:
I particularly like this painting, which was new to me. A quote from Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings, it’s a great reminder for those of us on a Superior amble.
We’d not seen this very large mural, an homage to the famous Southwestern painter Frida Kahlo.
Hiking Buddy once considered buying a pied-a-terre in Superior. I don’t know if this is an ad for a realtor (there are many serving Superior) or if it’s something else. I’m guessing realtor. Sold! BANG!
This whimsical and faintly disturbing mural fascinates me because I have no idea what it’s about, other than that F=ma is Newton’s second law of motion (Force = mass X acceleration). I don’t know what the other formula is – if you do, can you tell me in comments?

Back in the day we used to enjoy stopping at the Sunflower Cafe, which closed sometime around Covid. We were so happy to see that a new, charming restaurant/bar/cafe has taken its place, Bella’s. Being Italian in decor and flavor, it spoke to me right away.

An appealing menu, clean decor, good food and a well-stocked bar – what’s not to like? (photo from Yelp)

Hiking Buddy had a minimal breakfast before our exertions, so she had a real breakfast. I had had a hearty breakfast, so opted for ‘only’ a crème brûlée, from which, I was assured, all the calories had been removed.

HB’s fresh spinach omelette (made from real eggs, if you please), some kind of potato fry and something else. She ate every last scrap, even the ketchup, and declared it all delicious.
This was the best crème brûlée I ever had in my whole life. The custard was cool and creamy with just the right amount of firmness, the sugar caramel crust was warm and beautifully brittle, and spoke words of love to the custard beneath. I’m so glad they took out the calories!

We had further adventures awaiting us on our jaunt (*antique malls*!) so it was time to toddle off. As we left, though, we paused to admire and take a photo of one of our very favorite Superior murals, painted by our dear buddy Anne Coe.

Anne is a quintessential Western painter (4-th generation Arizonian). Her work is both serious and whimsical. Take a look at her link to see more of her paintings.

Boyce Thompson Arboretum is well-known and much visited. Superior is arguably not as well known, but is more than worth the time, not only for the charming downtown and murals, but for the nearby hiking trails. Put it on your list of places to visit, you won’t regret it.

Fun at the Ranch Market

17 Tuesday Jun 2025

Posted by farfalle1 in Food, Mexican food, Uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Cardenas Ranch Market, Food, Los Altos Ranch Market, mexican, Mexican Markets, Mexican Restaurants, Tortilla making

It’s been many years since the Captain and I visited this terrific market on Southern and Stapley in Mesa, which specializes in Mexican foods and products. The original Los Altos market chain of seven markets was acquired by Cardenas in 2017, which I think must account for the lighter, brighter and yes, cleaner, store Demonstration Buddy and I found yesterday, and the fact that the sign no longer says Los Altos Ranch Market. We will always think of it as Los Altos, though.

We stopped by the market for a look-see and for a delicious taco lunch. It definitely all looked a lot fresher and tidier than the last time Cappy and I dropped by. It differs from our usual markets in oh so many ways. For instance, you want dried peppers? Take a look at this whole wall of different kinds of peppers!

You need some herbs and spices for taco night that you might not find in your regular grocery? Check out this wall:

Not only do you get a fair amount of what you’re buying, the prices are more reasonable than the McCormick bottles you’ll find in the big chain store.

Some of the items are things we know well with their names in Spanish – cinnamon sticks, little packets of tomato flavored pasta (?!), cardamom seeds; but some are things we don’t recognize, either by sight or name. Fun!

We enjoyed seeing meat that was displayed without being all packed up on plastic trays with plastic wrap. And where else are you going to find chicken feet (Patas de pollo)? (Well, probably at Lee Lee, but that’s for another post sometime.)

We were kind of amused by the fish display. Demo Buddy has eaten these upside down fish in Mexico and reports they are bony, oily, and are neither delicious nor much fun to eat. But someone sure must like them – or knows how to prepare them better than the person who cooked them for DB. Poor guys look like they’re trying to hide. Too late! Too late!

Please excuse the poor quality of this greatly enlarged photo below which I stole from the interwebs and which shows the cafeteria-style lunch counter at Los Altos. Here you can get fresh-made juices and all manner of Mexican prepared food. We opted for tacos, and were delighted to see our tortillas plucked off a board and cooked to order, then made with our requested filling (chicken, please, and for toppings: todo!). We couldn’t resist sides of refried beans (yum), fried bananas, and guac (note to chef: way too salty, have brought home to add more avocados and some sour cream). Sitting at the long picnic tables and dining with strangers is loads of fun, as is seeing what other people are eating – sometimes recognizable, sometimes not. It was the perfect luncheon for hot and weary ladies of a certain age.

We were able to resist the bakery section – seen below in a 2021 photo from Yelp (thank you, other photographer). We both have always found the colors and the amount of sugar in these baked goods a bit alarming. We are so boring.

There are all the usual supermarket items in the aisles, and loads of fresh fruits and veggies. You could certainly do all shopping here and be more than happy. I haven’t included photos of these aisles because, well, supermarket aisles. meh. The fruits and veggies are beautifully displayed; here’s a photo from the store’s website.

I’ve saved the most fun for last. Los Altos has what can only be described as a Rube Goldberg tortilla maker, that was feverishly pounding out corn tortillas as we watched. It goes so quickly it takes three people to handle the output. Just after making the video you can see here, one of the gents waved us over and gave us hot-off-the-press tortillas. Very delicious.

If you have a chance, check out the Cardenas/Los Altos Ranch Markets. There are nine locations, (only the one I’ve written about here is in the East Valley; the rest are to the West). You won’t be disappointed.

The MAC

22 Tuesday Apr 2025

Posted by farfalle1 in Art in Arizona, Arts and crafts, Uncategorized

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

art, exhibitions, Mesa Art Center

Every month or two a small group of friends meets to eat mid-day. Yes! We are the Ladies Who Lunch, and we offer no apologies.

Recently we have taken ourselves to the Mesa Arts Center for a look at the exhibits in the Mesa Contemporary Arts Museum (we prefer to think of it as ‘the MAC’ rather than the MCAM; our way rolls more happily off the tongue). As museums go it’s small, intimate even, with just a few exhibit rooms. The shows lean towards local and regional artists, though the Museum casts a wide net when seeking exhibitors. What amazes me every time I go is how many very talented artists there are, producing interesting and stimulating pieces, year in, year out.

A couple of weeks ago we caught the end of the 46th Annual Contemporary Craft exhibit. These are not crafts the way you see them at the local Craft Fair, these are more along the lines of the Arts part of Arts and Crafts. We did not see a single gourd bird-feeder or framed photo of the Superstitions (no shade on gourd art, that’s just not what the MAC exhibits). Instead we found glass, fabric and ceramic pieces that demanded attention and, if you’ll excuse some artsy-fartsy talk, dialog with the viewer. Here, in no particular order is some of what we saw. If I’ve erred on titles, I apologize in advance to the artists.

This piece cracked me up – at first I thought it was a bunch of bananas, but no. It is 81 porcelain cactuses, suspended from the ceiling over a representation of ground. Titled What Comes After, most of the cactuses are illuminated by LED lights. It was made by Tucson artist Joseph Sivilli in 2024.

Roisan Rubio’s Breaking the Social Contract, 2022 was another quite large installation:

The artist, in his statement, said, “This installation reflects on the broken social contract between society and its instututions, focusing on the often overlooked epidemic of violence within Black communities. Each ceramic bullet represents a life lost to violence in a single year in cities like Detroit, St. Louis or Baltimore.” This work made me feel sad and helpless.

Heidi Dauphin used paper lists, thread, watercolor and fabric in Circle Squares with Lists, 2023.

I make my lists on my phone now. How much more fun it would be to stitch up a quilt of lists before heading out to the grocery store! How envious the other shoppers would be.

Jim S. Smoote II from Chicago showed several works in quilted textiles. Damon portrays a ‘typical young man,’ through painting and traditional quilting techniques.

I wish I could quilt so well! The above is from another of his quilted and appliqued works:

Richard Ansaldi, from Tucson, used clay and horse hair rope to make Roping Skills and Pot Sherds Beneath the Fabled Red “Sipapu,” 2023. And no, I don’t understand the title fully. A sipapu is a small hole or indentation in the floor of a kiva. Pueblo mythology (Hopi, Zuni, Acuma) suggests that people first emerged onto earth from the sipapu.

John Randall Nelson had us all chuckling again with his Bellhop to Bishop, 2024:

What are these beings? The are, “manifestations of the Fool and Trickster figures of deep-rooted mythos.” As the artist statement and the printing on one of the figures suggests, “The artist sees himself in them and winces with recognition.” This piece won the 2025 Juror’s Award.

Two of the smaller pieces captured my heart the moment I saw them. Steve Hagan’s pithily titled Lime Wedge, 2024 is a glass creation that simultaneously made my mouth water and my gullet crave a margherita. How does a glassmaker achieve such detail??

I’ve saved my favorite of the exhibit for last. I can’t tell you exactly why I like it so much, perhaps because of its simplicity. It is made of handwoven linen, cochineal dye, cactus spikes and a found object. It is called 31 over 110, 2023, and refers to the summer of 2023 when those of us in the Valley survived 31 days with temperatures exceeding 110 F, a result of the climate change that is affecting the entire planet. As Ann Morton, the artist, cheerfully concludes, ” Our days are numbered.”

There were many, many more objects in this excellent juried exhibit; in fact, I have tons more photos on my phone of pieces that appealed to me, but I fear your patience may be wearing thin.

Yes, these pieces were made of materials that are frequently associated with the more homely ‘crafts,’ but they transcend merely pleasing objects. They invited us to engage with them, to think about what they represent, and to react, viscerally and intellectually. It was a delightful exhibit in the true sense of the word, and I came away invigorated and… delighted. Of course it didn’t hurt that I was with congenial friends and that lunch awaited, just around the corner.

Welcome Tai Chi

11 Friday Apr 2025

Posted by farfalle1 in Uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Amin Wu, tai chi

This post has a very specific audience – the members of my tai chi class.

Welcome, y’all. You will find a lot of broken links here – I’ve much tidying up to do on this long-neglected blog. But since you expressed interest in this, I’ll get cracking.

Meanwhile – let’s work on the 24 forms, and if you need some inspiration, here it is:

Bingo Fun for Ferals

25 Wednesday Sep 2024

Posted by farfalle1 in Cats, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

animal-welfare, Cats, feral-cats, TNR, Trap-Neuter-Release

Recently a couple of friends and I went to a fund-raiser for our friend Kathy Lynch’s project: Fearless Feral Feeders. The name tells part of the story, but it doesn’t say it all – in addition to feeding feral cats in the Mesa, Arizona, area, Kathy and her doughty volunteers operate a trap-neuter-release program. For those unfamiliar with this idea, trap–neuter–release is a method that attempts to manage populations of feral cats by live-trapping them, having them neutered, ear-tipped for identification, and, if possible, vaccinated, then releasing them back into the outdoors to live their lives as best and as long as they can without procreating and adding to the feral cat problem.

The fund-raiser was a big Bingo game, and it was loads of fun. Held in an enormous VFW hall, we were there with 130 others folks and a dozen or so volunteers.

As you might guess from the above photo, supper was served: pulled pork bbq sandwiches, loads of fresh fruit, several delicious salads and, my downfall, cakes (yes, plural, one in the shape of a cat).

Also included in the ticket price was a little brown bag with 10 bingo game sheets, a pen, three red tickets, a pen, 3 crayons and a drinks chit.

It was a bit complicated for those of us who had not participated in such an event previously. When we arrived we were given the opportunity to buy two kinds of tickets – white raffle tickets for tables with about 30 items on them (I bought 15 of these tickets). Raffle items were things like cat beds, cat food, cat games and many other general interest things, including a few items for dogs that snuck in when the cats were napping. Blue tickets for a 50-50 drawing were also on offer (50% of proceeds to the winner, 50% to Fearless; I bought 0 of these). The red tickets (see brown bag above) were for items on what Kathy called ‘garage sale items.’ Kathy interspersed drawings for the raffle items and the garage sale items between the bingo games; the 50-50 drawing was at the end of the event. In addition there was a table with a silent auction for more exciting items, including round trip air tickets on Southwest to anywhere in the U.S. Last but not least there were several tables of prizes for people who won the actual bingo games. If you understand all that you’ve picked it up quicker than I did the evening of the event.

Not long after we arrived bingo-caller extraordinaire Kathy got the games rolling.

She did a great job calling the numbers and her volunteers did a great job checking sheets and running prizes to winners; my friends and I did a less good job filling out our bingo sheets, though I must say we got better at it as the evening progressed. Kathy was quite funny as she called the numbers, making rhymes and mentioning people she recognized by name.

One of the people she paused to introduce to us all was Sterling Davis, otherwise known to many of the attendees as The Trap King. I’m sad that I’d never heard of him because he has a remarkable calling: he drives all around the country with his three cats in a van educating about and promoting TNR activities. You can see photos of some of his activities here. He clearly has a great time doing what he does, and he does so much good. I’ll be following his adventures from now on (and of course I think you should too).

Back to the game! The above shows the table of an inexperienced but well-organized bingo player – me. The water bottle pretty much says it all.

So, I hear you ask, did you clean up with prizes? Idid! Towards the end I won a bingo, and chose a cat scratching post from the appropriate table. A little later one of the numbers on my red tickets was called, and I chose two adorable leather-covered elephant figures from India (a bank and a candle-holder), so I left the event well-satisfied. My friends did not win anything, but like me they were satisfied with the evening because it was in support of something we all believe in.

Not everyone agrees with us, however. The American Bird Conservancy says this about TNR: “Not only is this systematic abandonment inhumane to the cats, it perpetuates numerous problems such as wildlife predation, transmission of disease, and property destruction.” I understand where they’re coming from – bird-watching is another of my favorite hobbies, and feral cats are a terrible problem for birds. But the cats have already been inhumanely abandoned, if not born to a feral, and if we don’t neuter the adults, the problem will continue to grow exponentially. The unfixed ferals will still be preyed upon and will still be prone to disease. But after TNR they won’t be reproducing. It is nigh on impossible to domesticate a young or adult feral cat, so trap-neuter-rehome is not an option; there’s a better chance of domesticating feral kittens. Every shelter in the country spends a fair amount of time and money doing just that. The average life expectancy for a feral cat, neutered or not, is about 5 years. A queen can have three or four litters a year with up to 5 or 6 kittens a litter. You do the math – even if only half the kittens survive, one queen will increase feral population by a lot.

The best solution would be no feral cats at all. But (to mix metaphors horribly) that horse has left the stable. The problem exists. TNR, while not a complete solution, helps way more than doing nothing.

I shall now leave my soapbox and show you the wonderful items I won at the Bingo fund-raiser:

I know you are consumed with envy, but perhaps there will be a bingo game near you soon, and you, too, can win valuable prizes.

Texas Falls – no, not that Texas…

03 Saturday Aug 2024

Posted by farfalle1 in Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Hiking

This Texas Falls is in the great state of Vermont, near the town of Hancock, a speck with a population of almost 350. To the great state of Texas, Hancock and its river and falls would be a mote of dust to be brushed off the panhandle. To a trio of intrepid ladies of a certain age, it was the scene of a splendid picnic and ‘easy’ hike through tree roots and mud.

Here’s some back ground on the area, which is part of the Green Mountain National Forest, for those of you who wish to know how the Falls were formed and what they are made of (besides water). It includes a map of the 1-mile trail we took which is variously described as ‘easy’ and ‘moderately challenging.’ The latter description was apt for us, what with the aforementioned tree roots and mud, and all our artificial bits and pieces.

Every good hike includes food, and we girded our loins for the test with a delightful picnic in the Forest Service-provided pavilion where we were joined by a bold little squirrel who, it turned out, was a fool for my stump-served bread crusts.

Time to head out! Ours was not a 30-minute hike; it was more like an hour and a half. Part of our slow time was due to everyone having to wait while I took a million photos. Coming from the part of the world where a forest looks like this:

Saguaro National Park: photo credit: National Geographic

the vivid green and the density of over- and undergrowth required many a stop to exclaim and to record. (Excuse odd typeface here, heh heh).

This trail is not the groomed path of more accessible parks.

Just look at all those roots waiting to trip the unwary! As well there was an elevation change of about 200′, and plenty of mud after some recent rains. Footing was sometimes a bit tricky.

In a woo-woo encounter we met a young woman who also graduated from our school, though many years after we did. She was accompanied by a very fine hiking dog.

Here are some of the photos I took, in no particular order:

Did woodpeckers do all this? It reminded me of the granary trees of acorn woodpeckers. Maybe this initially looked like a good storeroom, but the birds changed their minds.

Did I mention the roots? These hills are made of granite. In places the tree roots cannot go down, so they crawl along the surface of the ground.

Several times we came across mushrooms – some alarming orange ones, a stale shelf musroom, and one that appeared to have exploded.

We decided not to sample any of them.l

This being a loop trail one could start out walking along the stream taking the trail counterclockwise, or head northwest in a clockwise circuit. Had we gone along the stream we would have seen the falls almost immediately, might have said, ‘oh, that’s nice,’ might have said, ‘okay, let’s go home now.’ Had we done that we would have missed all the interest of the trail, and that would have been a pity. Tired as we were, though, it was not a disappointment to descend to the river bed and see, at last, the falls in all their Vermont-sized glory.

Looks like the original bridge and stairs leading up the hillside washed out at some point. That’s not a surprise. Though the falls may look modest, there’s a fair amount of water moving through the gorge, enough to have carved a gorge in the first place. Imagine what it would look like after a big storm! Sadly, Vermont has had too many big storms in recent years, this last weekend being only the most recent.

We were fortunate to have fine weather for out little mini-hike, and grateful to the Forest Service for maintaining this delightful trail.

A touch of Greece in Florence

15 Wednesday May 2024

Posted by farfalle1 in Churches, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

Florence Arizona, Greek Orthodox Church, St. Anthony's Greek Orthodox Church

No, we’re not in Italy again, sad to say. Instead Greece came to us in the form of St. Anthony’s Greek Orthodox Monastery, located in Florence, Arizona.

Friends had visited there a year or two earlier and thought we would enjoy seeing it, which we did. Disclaimer: I know pretty much nothing about the Greek Orthodox Church, other than having attended a Greek wedding once about 25 years ago, so if some of what I write sounds ignorant, well, it’s because I am! ( I don’t remember a lot about the wedding, but I remember a flowery bower and the bride and groom’s hands being lightly bound with ribbons several times. It was great.)

Six monks arrived in Florence, Arizona, in the summer of 1995. Florence is a town of some 25,000 people with a sweet downtown. The monastery, however, is nowhere near the downtown. It is in the back of beyond, popping out of the desert like a decoration on top of a flat cake. These first six arrivals began the work of building, which continues to this day. There are now over fifty monks and novices in residence. In addition to the main church, dedicated to St. Anthony and St. Nectarios the Wonderworker (one of your newer saints), there are chapels for Prophet Elijah, Saint John the Baptist, Saint Seraphim of Sarov, Saint Demetrios of Thessalonica, Saint George the Great Martyr, Saint Nicholas the Wonderworker and St. Panteleimon the Healer. Heaven knows we can use all the Wonderworkers we can get with the world in the state it’s in. There are eleven St. Anthonys, and I’m not sure which one is venerated in Florence, but St. Anthony of Padua seems to be most often referred to.

In addition to all the chapels, the monastery encompasses a vegetable garden, a small vinyard, citrus orchards and an olive grove. Highly designed gardens, pathways, gazebos and Spanish fountains lend a botanical garden air to the whole enterprise.

You want to visit this monastery if you are a fan of ornate decoration, woodworking, bright colors, mosaics and/or the Greek Orthodox Church.

The monastery sits on a flat plain:

This is the site of the olive orchard. We were not sure if it has been removed or just really pruned.

There is intricate woodwork throughout the chapels, both in the building itself and in the altars and furnishings:

Let nothing be unembellished!

Although outer altars were visible to visitors, the interior altars were all hidden behind purple cloth.

Every saint gets at least one portrait in mosaic.

The monks have truly made an oasis in the desert.

I’ve made an album with far too many photographs and a couple of short videos that you can look at here.

Our visit was interesting, though visually exhausting. Dress codes always annoy me, especially ones with an unspoken assumption of the devious and wicked nature of women, and the inability of men to resist us. We were required to wear long skirts, long-sleeved blouses and headscarves. On the other hand, all the monks were draped head to toe in heavy black fabric that looked exceedingly warm. Their house, their rules, so of course we willingly complied; and they are very generous to open their grounds and chapels to visitors, so I shouldn’t complain.

It all felt too bright and too new to me during our time there. Afterwards, though, I thought – maybe visitors in the year 2424 will find it all as charming as we find the chapels in the other Florence, the one in Italy. They were new and bright once upon a time.

You too can visit the monastery if you’re in the Phoenix/Tucson/Florence area. They welcome guests from 10:30 to 2:30 every day, though it’s best to check their website and make sure they are open.

A step back in time

22 Saturday Apr 2023

Posted by farfalle1 in Arizona, Hiking in Arizona, Uncategorized

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

Arizona Hikes, Claypool Tunnel, LOST trail

Hiking buddy and I went on an adventure in Superior a few weeks ago along a section of the LOST trail. That an acronym for Legends of Superior Trails, not a warning of what’s about to befall you once you set out. We hiked (walked, really) the Claypool Tunnel section, which runs from downtown Superior up a vertiginous road to the old tunnel.

This section of highway, an engineering marvel of its time, was constructed between 1919 and the highway’s opening in April of 1922. Its purpose was to cut down travel time between the Miami, Globe and Superior mining interests and the agricultural areas of the Salt and Gila valleys near Phoenix. One of the road’s nicknames is the ‘Convict Highway’ because convict labor was used to build a portion of it, including the Claypool Tunnel, our destination on this hike.

The path starts out easily enough, but about halfway along there are a series of switchbacks to accommodate the climb. The views are ever more spectacular as one gains altitude. The new highway, built in 1952 to replace the dangerous road which we were hiking, is never far from view. From our vantage the ‘new’ bridge leading to the ‘new’ tunnel was quite a stunning sight.

The higher we went the more the road disintegrated.

In this photo Hiking Buddy gives you an idea of the scale of the undertaking, as well as a good idea of the road’s condition. Falling boulders! Watch out!!

Every time we went around a corner we thought we’d see the tunnel, and at long last we did. It seemed a little underwhelming until we walked through it and realized how much work even such a short tunnel requires.

There’s an awful lot of graffiti – I guess all that rock is just too tempting a canvas. (He’s everywhere!!)

On the far side of the tunnel we found an aging memorial – why Jim Vaughn’s remembrance was there we do not know, but it was quite moving.

I like this picture:

Look carefully at this photo and you’ll see a young man preparing for some rock-climbing. The steep cliffs all had lots of pitons waiting.

The past winter was one of the wettest in quite some time, and the wildflowers have thanked us profusely for that. Along our way we saw mounds of brittlebush, interspersed by mallow, marching up the hillsides, as well as other beautiful small flowers I have yet to identify.

It was a splendid adventure, just shy of 5 miles round trip. We would do it again in a heartbeat.

Spring in the desert

29 Thursday Apr 2021

Posted by farfalle1 in Uncategorized

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Desert spring

A bee makes merry in a palo verde blossom

The palo verde are magnificent this week, great yellow clouds of bloom hanging over the desert. They remind me of the forsythia bloom that we awaited so impatiently when we lived in New England. But the palo verde are trees, and forsythia are shrubs – there is an appreciable difference.

A few showers overnight washed the desert; all the dust in the air was brought to earth, the mountains appeared with a clarity we have not seen for a couple of months. And the plants! They are all as happy as can be to have had a drink, spare as it might be. I took a walk in the unseasonably cool temperature to enjoy the cheery mayhem that is spring in the desert.

The saguaro are in bloom. The first years we were here I was disappointed that these enormous, heavy behemoths produce such small flowers. Now, though, they seem just right, a ring of posies around the heads of the aged parents.

Saguaro in bloom

The saguaro is important to the Sonora Desert ecology. It is home and food source to many inhabitants. Saguaros live a very long time, 150 years and more. The first arm, if the saguaro has one at all, will not appear until the plant is 50-75 years old. It starts as a little bump and then slowly, slowly turns into an appendage.

The saguaro can hold a lot of water, swelling and decreasing as the supply allows. It’s a heavy plant (a mature saguaro may weigh 2 tons plus); its roots spread out as wide as the plant is tall, at depths of 4-6 inches, and it has a tap root that runs 2 feet deep. The shallow roots collect what water they can during the brief rains that visit the desert and give the cactus a foundation to withstand desert winds.

Saguaros provide nesting spots for many birds – cactus wrens, gila woodpeckers, even owls and eagles nest in its arms. Today I watched a woodpecker feeding its young deep in a cactus hole. The woodpeckers peck out a hole in the tree, which then forms a scab inside and hardens, making a deep hidden nest. When the cactus dies the hardened bowl nests remain (as do the ribs); indigenous people have used them for storage for centuries.

Here’s a morsel for the babes
Fledgling or parent? Someone’s making an exit.

There were plenty of other birds out and about. The quail were everywhere, though their eggs seem not to have hatched yet. It’s always such fun to see the little quail babies, who look like small commas racing after their mothers as they all run across the road. The lovely cactus wrens were busy in the saguaro; they have a grating song, quite unexpected for such a pretty bird. A roadrunner had a successful hunt, bagging a delicious large lizzard:

Yum!

The desert is alive and vivid in springtime. When the heat of summer arrives everything will slow down. But for now we can enjoy the bird song and the beautiful cactus blooms.

cholla bloom
Ocotillo flowers looking like birds in flight

Blooming hedgehog cactus
Saguaro interior bouquet
Saguaro side bouquet

Fagioli all’uccelleto

11 Friday Sep 2020

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian food, Italian recipes, Uncategorized

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Bean dishes, Fagioli all'uccelleto, Italian comfort food, Pelegrino Artusi

FAGIOLI ALL'UCCELLETTO ricetta contorno facile saporito

Photo courtesy of Giallo Zafferano blog

When we were on the famous vacation in Maine we bought supplies for cooking at home. Amongst the dishes we wanted to prepare was Fagioli all’ucceletto, beans in the style of songbirds.

Before you get your feathers ruffled, I assure you there are no songbirds in this recipe; in fact it is completely meatless. So why do songbirds even appear in its name? To answer that we have to go all the way back to this bearded gent with the wonderful name of Pellegrino Artusi (‘pellegrino’ in Italian means ‘pilgrim.’)

Pellegrino Artusi, the man who revolutionized Italian cuisine - Hotel  Regency

Artusi was born in 1820 in Emilia-Romagna in northeastern Italy, one of eight children but the only son of a wealthy father. When he was in his early 30’s he moved to Tuscany. Although he spent his successful working life in finance, he had a life-long passion for literature and for cooking. He died in 1911 at the ripe old age of 90.

Not long after the unification of Italy Artusi wrote one of the earliest Italian cookbooks, ‘La Scienza in Cucina e l’ Arte di Mangiar Bene’ (The Science of Cooking and the Art of Eating Well). An enthusiast of the developing Scientific Method, Artusi subjected every recipe in his book to testing – something that seems obvious us to us now, but wasn’t then. His book, still available from Amazon, collects 790 recipes from all corners of the country and includes the author’s witty comments and recollections. Aside from its culinary merit, the book has a cultural significance in that it swept up the formerly disparate regional dishes of Italy into one Italian national cuisine.

We’ve flown far afield from our little songbirds, so let’s return to the recipe and the question of why it’s called after songbirds. No one is really certain, but Artusi opined it was because the flavorings – sage and garlic – were those traditionally used to cook songbirds. (I know, it’s sort of an anti-climax after the build-up, isn’t it?)

That seems a good enough reason to me. So without further ado, here’s the link to Speedy’s recipe for fagioli all’ucceletto, one of the most comfortable of comfort foods.

Amazon.com: La scienza in cucina e l'arte di mangiar bene: Manuale pratico  per le famiglie Compilato da PELLEGRINO ARTUSI (790 ricette) e in appendice  “La cucina per gli stomachi deboli” (Italian Edition)
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