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  • Recipes
    • ‘Mbriulata
    • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
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    • Tomato Aspic
    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
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    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Category Archives: Hiking in Arizona

Desert in Bloom

06 Monday Apr 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Arizona, Flowers, Hiking in Arizona, Photographs, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

cacti, cactus, desert in bloom

Watching the desert bloom is like reading a long book.  There’s a plot, but the action unfolds really slowly.  Desert plants are tenacious; they have to be to survive the extremes this climate throws at them.  And the flowers they produce seem to be pretty tough too.  They may look delicate, but they hang on, day after day, in temperatures that seem high to this sissy.

The story begins with the lupines, which are strong enough to break through the road pavement and flower on the highway’s verge.last-lupine

This was one of the last, but they bloomed in an understated carpet along Route 60 for most of February.  The cheerful yellow California poppies bloom in broad swaths at about the same time.

Chapter two is the ubiquitous brittle bush which has tons of small yellow flowers.  The creosote plant, which smells like its name when the air is humid, also puts out a small yellow flower.  It makes a very amusing seed that looks like something an elf might use for a powder puff.

creosote-flower-and-seed

Chapters three through ten are all the small little plants that bloom on the desert floor.  They are so small that it would be easy to miss them unless, like me, you are sure you’re going to trip and fall, so you always are looking down.

little-blue-flowers

small-flowers

The climax has to be the flowering of the various cacti.  The desert here boasts several varieties of cholla (pronounced choy-yah), hedgehog, pincushions, barrels, prickly pear, teddy bears, ocatillo, the enormous suguaro and others I don’t know or have forgotten.  A month ago the cacti had big fat buds, and waiting for them to open has been an exercise in patience.

desert-prickly-pear
Finally they have started and it has been worth the wait. The hedgehogs are the early show-offs.

hedgehog-with-bug-and-spider

There is a world of action in that flower.  Just before I took the photo a bee buried itself completely in the stamen, wiggled around for a few seconds, and then took off.  I think it was drunk. Meanwhile the little black and red beetle seems to be napping.  The white spider didn’t like the camera and scuttled away right after this shot.

It’s almost impossible to take a bad picture of these flowers; they make the most considerate subjects.  If you would like to see some more pictures of the desert in bloom, click here, or over on the right under Photographs (choose the slide show option).

The desert in bloom is not as wildly showy as, say, an English cottage garden at its peak.  And it’s different in another really important way.  Almost every plant in the desert will happily impale you with something sharp and unpleasant.  The dastardly cholla, whose segments stick like glue and work their way through hiking boots and jeans, the fishhook barrels with their barbed spikes, and all the others too, seem to be carrying some kind of huge grudge.  Even the century plant (agave), familiar to us in Italy, is a stinker.

img_9598

I foolishly wandered over to stroke its smooth asparagus-like stalk, and one of the spines which reside at the end of each leaf went right into my leg.

No matter where you go in the desert, and no matter how lovely the flowers are, you are always going to find yourself between a rock and a sharp place.

The Best Thing We Ate This Week – Smoked Salmon

02 Thursday Apr 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in American recipes, Hiking in Arizona, Uncategorized

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

Goldfield Mountains, hiking food, smoked salmon

img_9608

Sometimes it’s not the food – it’s where you are and the person you’re eating with that makes a meal special and memorable.  My hiking buddy and I had our last hike together for many months on Sunday.  We returned to the Goldfield Mountains to search for an elusive trail that will now have to wait til November to meet my boots.  In lieu of the missing trail we opted to scramble up several rocky hills.  Lest you think these were gentle little mounds, here is the view of our car from our picnic spot:

img_9592

Can you even see that little dot down there?

In any event, after our exertions we had a fancier than usual mountaintop meal.  HB (hiking buddy) brought smoked salmon, caviar and those wafer thin crackers that want to be Wasa bread but aren’t rough and tough enough.  I brought smoked gouda cheese (which come to think of it was a gift from HB), grapes and salted pecans.  Accustomed as we are to wolfing down sandwiches, this was a meal fit for royalty, and we enjoyed every bite.

The company was superlative, the views in all directions were breath-taking and the day was warm without being hot.  There is no accompanying recipe to this post; here’s what you do:  buy some great smoked salmon and a little jar of caviar, pack that with some crackers, fruit and nuts in your pack, remember to take plenty of water, and don’t forget a lemon (HB didn’t), find a high place, climb to the top with a good friend, and eat.  Buon Appetito!

Expatriate in a noisy place

24 Tuesday Mar 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Arizona, Hiking in Arizona, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

birds and bees, Lost Dutchman Trail, spring hike

The desert is a place of quiet cacophony in the spring.  I stopped on the Lost Dutchman Trail the other day to listen, and this is what I heard.

love

First ~ the bird song.  The birds (and the bees) are doing what they’re meant to do at this time of year, and they’re being none too quiet about it.  The cactus wren perched on the saguaro above has a hideous call for such a sweet bird.  It’s a grating electronic trill/buzz, as if the bird had had a laryngectomy and needs to use an electrolarynx.  Not pretty.  But judging from the dancing in the photo above, it is effective. Other bird songs I heard included a high trill, a pee-weep, a medium trill,  a chip-chip, and a whistle. The gila woodpecker thinks it’s all hilarious, and has a call that sounds like a chiding laugh. Every now and then a Gambel’s Quail took flight to the sound of beating wings.

aguila-orange-flower-bee

The insect world provided the basso continuo for all the bird chatter. With flowers just beginning to open and the temperature rising, the flies, bees and wasps are out in great numbers. The bee above is hard at work in a desert mallow. He buzzed off with yellow pantaloons shortly after this photo was taken.  The bees who aren’t working flowers at the moment make a lot more noise as they commute to their next job, a sort of en-yeow zooming sound, like a teeny race car going by on an oval track.  The flies content themselves with a higher-pitched steady whine; they are irritating as they like to land on people, probably only minutes after having landed on some animal’s poop.  Bah.

It was very breezy, and that added to the concert.  The palo verde  and mesquite trees are leafy, and the wind makes a lovely whispering sigh as it passes through them.

The last sounds are the chatter of other hikers.  It was spring break week, and there were lots of young people out, probably thinking about the birds and bees, though in a slightly different way than I was.  I overheard conversations on the economy (the end of capitalism as we know it!), weight loss (drink lots of water before eating!), and cookery (tomatoes!).  We courted a little differently in my day, but, as the cactus wren proves (in the words of the old Stones song), it’s the singer, not the song…

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