It’s silly season for Italian taxes. In the last couple of weeks we’ve received the Rifiuti tax and the Passo Carrabile tax. I don’t know why paying for garbage removal is a tax and not a service fee, but that’s what it is. (There’s been a nice lawsuit on this subject; it has resulted in eligibility for an IVA refund for rifiuti tax payers. Read more about that here or in Elaborations on the right). The rifiuti tax costs about the same here as it used to cost us for a year of garbage pick-up at our home in Connecticut, roughly E350. The difference, of course, is that in Connecticut the garbage man came to us; here we walk to the Cassonetto di Spazzatura (which, by the way, the Captain thinks is the most sonorous of Italian phrases). This one we have no problem with because we are getting good service for our money (and yes, we do get good garbage pick-up service).
No, the one we have trouble with is the tax for our Passo Carrabile. It’s an Italian concept, handled as only the Italians would handle it. ‘Passo Carrabile’, according to the Oxford web translator means ‘driveway,’ but it actually means any alley, drive or portal that must left accessible for the owners. In other words, don’t park here, buster.
In the U.S. it seems common sense applies more often than not – if there’s a driveway, one knows not to park across its access to the road. If there’s a store that needs access to get goods in and out, a simple ‘No Parking’ sign, available for not much money at any hardware store will do the trick. Easy!
Well, you won’t be surprised to learn it’s a little more complicated here.
About three years ago we built, at no small expense, a small parcheggio on the side of the road above our house. It was a complex project involving many permits, an engineered plan, checks by various officials during construction, new walls, etc. In fact, the file I have for “Parcheggio” is three times thicker than the file called “House Reconstruction.” Why the added fuss? Because we were building something attached to a public road. In our innocence we thought that The State would be thrilled with one less car parked on a narrow, crowded road. And insofar as permits were forthcoming without much delay, evidently they were.
But, as the saying goes, No good deed goes unpunished; and we are punished every year for our parcheggio. Because it opens directly on the road we are obliged to post Passo Carribile signs so that no one will park in the middle of the road. Seems obvious to us that no one would, especially since cars park on the other side of the street, making it impossible for more than one vehicle to pass through at a time. A car parked adjacent to our parcheggio might completely block the road. However, we have access to the street, so we must pay the tax. Apparently it is based on how many feet of opening you have on the street. Because of the steep terrain here, our parcheggio runs horizontally along the road, not perpendicular to it. We have a lot of street frontage, and we pay accordingly. Last year the Captain went to the appropriate office and said, “We don’t want a Passo Carrabile,” but he was told that because we’re on a public way we are required to have one. And what does it cost, you may ask? About the same as it costs to have garbage service.
So every year we pay for making the street we live on incrementally safer and easier to transit. Oh well. Italy is a taxing kind of country, and this is the season of silly taxes; probably the tax collector is laughing all the way to the bank.


Passo Carrabile tax? What a pile of…nevermind. I’m just relieved that all I need to remember is the extra garbage tax, that is, having to buy 25€ worth of yellow comune trash bags every year. Which reminds me, this month makes a year since we last bought them.
They get us coming and going, that’s for sure. Now go buy those bags tomorrow…
This is not Farfalle but the Captain with an elaboration. After we built the parcheggio, posted the three signs (1 Passo Carrabile and 2 Proprieta’ Privata) and got the shade net up, we were in no hurry to get posts and chains installed. After all, who would ignore those obvious signs? Well, remember Mark Twain’s Innocents Abroad?
The first bad experience was once when we got home of an evening and found a Smart nosed in right in front of our car. I went over to Trattoria Rosa and convinced the driver to put it some place else. He thanked me by tearing a mirror off my scooter when he left latter.
Even better was the night we were seeing friends out after dinner and found a 300cc scooter parked right on the rear bumper of their original CinqueCento. They couldn’t even move their car 10 cm let alone get out. In a blind fury I was able break the steering lock while trying to throw it out onto the road. Coincidentally, a pair of Carabinieri were at Rosa’s and, my fury not quite spent, I marched over and fetched them along with the scooter owner. After being warned about the dangers of touching other people or others’ property, they took the owner aside for a chat. He left and I heard no more, though our visiting friends, one a true Rapallina, were shocked I didn’t get arrested. Oh, yes, at one heated moment I grabbed his arm and forced him to read the posted signs while questioning him as to whether or not he was illiterate.
We now have posts and chains.
Well yes, the Captain does have a temper. I’m so glad I didn’t have to visit you in prison, my dear Captain!
case in point.. I am no innocent bystander to this as I always had the philosophy of “When in Santa…” but I have to agree with the captain on his wanting to shove the sign up the guys nose so he could read it… I did once have “Falling Down” moment in Paraggi .. and for the record “Falling Down” is a movie with Michael Douglas where he goes berserk at one point and wants to shoot everything in sight
“Falling Down” is one way to put it I guess (must see that movie – I like Michael Douglas). Sometimes people just do things that make us crazy! But then, we’re the guests here…
Ciao Farfalle,
I found your driving lesson blog and my experience have been similar. It is really is ridiculous that we have to do it at all. If we were British or from Afghanistan we could just walk in and swap out licence over. I am doing mine in English as my Italian is not good enough, but the lessons have been in Italian and the book is full
of mistakes, translation and otherwise. I can’t believe it. They should be ashamed of themselves. My blog is called Debra and Liz’s Bagni di Lucca Blog. I have signed up for yours.
Thank you for your insights.
Debra
I found your blog, but wasn’t sure it was yours… will now go back and look in depth. The driving school here told me the English book was full of mistakes and not reliable so I went to weeks of classes and spent hours and hours on the practice tests in the back of the book. It was, looking back on it, a memorable experience. But not one I’d care to repeat. Good, good luck with the exam – in bocca da lupo!
I passed my theory test this morning!! Thank goodness. That is not something I wish to do again. There were several questions that could have gone either way, but I don’t care how many I got wrong. It is enough that I passed. We are going back to Australia next week and I won’t be able to do the practical until I return in September. At least I can actually enjoy the rest of my time here. I fail to see how an official book can contain so many, mostly simple, translation mistakes.
Debra
Yay! Complimenti. I’m so happy for you! Isn’t it amazing how such a simple little exam can plant such a big old cloud over your head?? Bah! Hope you have a fine summer/winter in Australia, and that you pass your practical in a thrice (I almost drove into a wall – didn’t think I’d pass… you will do better!. Buon viaggio.
I have got so much to look forward to! Loved this post…
Thanks!
That’s hilarious. And so tragically true…
I loved Marco’s comment.
Grazie! I like your restaurant review blog with the little forks!
The best of it all for me is that to most Italians the passo carrabile sign means absolutely nothing .. especially down the small roads in town where you live… I have often found myself trying to walk out of a portone di casa and having to climb over someones cinquecento … on a side note .. you have no idea how happy i am i found your blog … aside form making me really homesick, it gives me some great insight on how reasonable people perceive customs i grew up with and all in the beautiful land of focaccia, pesto and Salsa di noci
Thank you for you great comment, Marco. You’re right – you did grow up in a beautiful land, and we never stop appreciating all the good aspects to life here, three of which are the last three words of your comment! Are you living in the States now?
Si,
I am in beautiful, hot, sunny, seasonsneverchange, North Carolina… Been in the US for almost 20 years (jeez, cant believe it’s that long) NYC first and now NC come back every so often but not often enough … there’s a restaurant in Santa Margherita just above the Pescheria by the port.. owner’s name is Luciano at one point the best Salsa di Noci ever.. if you go there tell him Marco (who lives in the States – Barbara’s son) sent you .. wont get you much .. after all Genovesi are genovesi but may get you a better table
Thank you for the tip on the restaurant, Marco. We seldom eat out (the Cap’n is a superb cook), but if we do, we’ll certainly keep it in mind. If we go out to eat in Santa we tend to go to Da Baffo for a pizza, or to a newish trattoria way up at the end of Matteotti near the church. They do fish, too. Yum! But we must try dropping your name and see what happens. The Pirelli race was last weekend – lots of gorgeous boats, one of which SANK!!
Ciao,
I have just read your post. I found it in tag surfer. I love it!!! We have a house in Bagni di Lucca and have experienced many Italian strange ways. I am in the process of acquiring my Italian drivers’ licence – a hideous process! There will be a blog on that after Friday when I take my theory test. I love your blog.
Debra Kolkka
Hi! I’ll go hunt for your blog. Good luck with the driver’s license. I got mine last year – you can read about it in Driving School Diary in my Elaborations section if you’re interested – and it was one of the most stressful events of my life! Not so many years ago English speakers could take an oral exam, but not any more. Are you taking your written in English or Italian? I’ll think of you Friday…