• Contact
  • Elaborations
    • A Policeman’s View
    • Driving School Diary
    • Great Danes
    • IVA charged on Tassa Rifiuti
    • Nana
    • Old trains and Old weekends
    • The peasant, the virgin, the spring and the ikon
    • Will Someone Please, Please Take Me to Scotland??
  • Recipes
    • ‘Mbriulata
    • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
    • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
    • *Cherry Tart*
    • *Crimson Pie*
    • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
    • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana* – Eggplant Parmesan
    • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
    • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
    • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
    • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
    • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast* on the rotisserie
    • *Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup*
    • *Spezzatino di Vitello*
    • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
    • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
    • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
    • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
    • *Tzatziki*
    • 10th Tee Apricot Bars
    • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
    • Artichoke Parmigiano Dip
    • Best Brownies in the World
    • Clafoutis
    • Cod the Way Sniven Likes It
    • Cold Cucumber Soup
    • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
    • Easy spring or summer pasta
    • Fagioli all’ucelleto
    • Fish in the Ligurian Style
    • Hilary’s Spicy Rain Forest Chop
    • Insalata Caprese
    • Kumquat and Cherry Upside Down Cake
    • Lasagna Al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
    • Lemon Meringue Pie
    • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
    • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
    • Louis’s Apricot Chutney
    • Mom’s Sicilian Bruschetta
    • No-Knead Bread (almost)
    • Nonna Salamone’s Famous Christmas Cookies
    • Pan-fried Noodles, with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
    • Pesto
    • Pesto
    • Pickle Relish
    • Poached Pears
    • Polenta Cuncia
    • Pumpkin Sformato with Fonduta and Frisee
    • Rustic Hearth Bread
    • Sicilian Salad
    • Soused Hog’s Face
    • Spotted Dick
    • Swedish Tea Wreaths
    • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
    • Tomato Aspic
    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
    • Winter Squash or Pumpkin Gratin
    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Category Archives: Italy

Old Dogs, New Gardening Tricks

19 Saturday Jun 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in gardening, Italian habits and customs, Italy, Liguria, Rapallo, Uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Fascie gardening, Gardening in Narrow Strips

When in Rome, do as the Romans – how many zillions of times have we heard that expression?  Enough to be thoroughly sick of it, for sure.  Wouldn’t you think that after all the repetition the meaning of that irritating nostrum would’ve sunk in?  Well, in terms of the garden, this year it finally did for us… after a mere eight years.

We’ve served our time trying to pry vegetables from the rocky New England soil, and were more or less successful, depending upon how early in the season our enthusiasm flagged.  But New England has nothing on Italy when it comes to rocky soil.  Here it might be more appropriate to call it soily rocks, at least in our mountainous zone.  Doesn’t matter.  Make a cutting of something, anything, drop it in the ground here and it will probably grow very happily.

Which reminds me of a funny digression.  We lived for years in the Icebox of Connecticut, not far from the much larger Torrington, a manufacturing town with a large Italian population.  One day my husband brought a client from Torrington over to see our garden.  This gent, a gnarly, deeply tanned gardening pro took one look at our efforts and said, “You’ve got too many stones in your garden.”  “Well, how should we get them out,” my husband asked.  “That’s easy,” the old fellow replied.  “Every evening send your wife out and tell her to take all the stones out of one row.  Soon enough she will have done the whole garden. Then she can start over.”  I took a dim view of this plan, and it was never put into effect.

Anyway, it was not difficult to adjust to the soil conditions here, and we blithely chose our largest fascia (terrace) for our vegetable garden, and for eight years planted much as we were accustomed to in New England: in rows like this

(This is a photo Hatsy Taylor took of her veggie garden in East Canaan, Conn, which she has kindly allowed me to use.)

The problem was that our largest fascia is too shady. (We have six fascie, measuring anywhere from 3′ – 20′ in width; most are about 9′.)  For starters there is a large palm tree that takes a lot of the morning light.  Then we planted an orange tree right in the middle of the space because it is pretty there – more shade.  The house blocks the sun from mid-afternoon on, so all in all our poor veggie garden got about 3 hours of sun a day.  Nonetheless we were able to grow enough tomatoes to make all the sauce we need for a year, as well as a pumpkin or two, some cukes, beans,  lots of herbs, some roses and flowers for cutting.  We were never successful with zucchini, oddly – probably due to the amount of shade.

Our neighbors here on the steep slopes of Montallegro use their limited fascia space so intelligently.  They plant narrow strip gardens facing the sun, just in front of the stone wall that supports the fascia above, sometimes even under their olive trees, which make only dappled shade.  It makes so much sense!  The wall behind offers support and holds and reflects the sun’s warmth.  Weeding is ever so much easier (should one actually decide to do it) because every ‘garden’ is one, or at most two, rows deep.

This spring the Captain took a pickax to the land in front of our sunny walls, and we now have four new strip gardens.  On the top level we have two plots of tomatoes.

They are growing like crazy  – partly because of all the rain we’ve been getting, but also because they love the warm soil in front of the wall.

The next level down is not so satisfactory.  The ground was stonier than normal, so it was hard to make a good bean bed.  The ones that came up (both bush and pole) are doing fine, but probably only 30% germinated, in spite of a healthy dose of bagged manure. (moo pooh?)

The next level down is my favorite because it is so mixed.  In one spot are three leftover tomato plants.  Then there is a small strip with cucumbers climbing the trellis that used to keep Luciano from wandering off our terrace, with some bushy pumpkins in front.  Parsley flanks these climbers, with some giant sunflowers thrown in just for fun.

None of it looks like much now, but it’s all growing by leaps and bounds.  Already  teeny tomatoes and cucumbers have formed, and every day each plant looks about 6″ taller.

So, what’s happening with the old garden?  The Captain planted a lot of ground-cover, but the seeds all washed away in the two weeks of rain that followed; we’ll replant, probably in the fall.  He also has constructed an elegant new compost area, and has almost finished a new potting table.  It will be a cool and shady area in which to relax on all those hot summer days we’re waiting for.  Thyme, marjoram, mint, sage and rosemary are still happily ensconced there.  Dill, cilantro and basil like it hot, hot, hot, so they are growing in pots on the terrace.

By the way, there’s another family that’s doing some interesting gardening this summer, but I see that with their luxury of flat space they are using the more traditional layout:

I’m guessing Michelle and Barack have a bit more help with their garden than we do with ours.  Yes, our new garden strips are working really well, but yes, it’s a lot more work to get water to four places instead of just one.  But you know what they say… when in Rome…

Rice!

30 Sunday May 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Italy, Piemonte, Rice, Uncategorized

≈ 13 Comments

Tags

Riseria Tomasoni


You’ve got to love any food that can be served for every course of a meal.  Rice is just such a one.  You can have your cheese ‘befores’ on rice crackers, eat risotto for a first course, serve rice with the main course, and enjoy rice pudding for dessert.  And of course it is all washed down with delicious sake (rice wine).

Unless you live in a rice-growing region you may think, as I used to, that rice grows in grocery stores in bags labeled “Carolina”.  But of course it doesn’t; it grows in rice fields which, in this season in Italy, are exquisitely flooded with water.  Those of you who read this blog regularly know that I’m a huge fan of Piemonte, not least because the scenery around the rice fields is so exotic.

The land, flat as a rice cake, suddenly rears up into snow-capped Alps.  Add the acres of flooded fields reflecting the surrounding trees and mountains and, well, it’s just something that can’t be done justice with a photo.

Illustration courtesy of Botanical.com

But how does the rice get from lake to table?  Ha.  That’s where Tomasoni Brothers Riseria (and countless other small  processors) come in.  The rice, which is a tall slim grain, is harvested and when dried looks like the brown bouquet in the center of the photo at the top of this post.  The illustration on the left shows all the bits and pieces of the plant. The rice kernels are the seeds, which are produced at the top of the grassy stalks.

When ripe, the rice kernels are threshed from the chaff (and I’m not exactly sure where or how this happens) and the resulting ‘seeds’ are brought to Tomasoni to be turned into salable product.

Here are some of the machines that accomplish this miracle:

The rice is carried into the riseria in huge sacks – we’ve seen this happen in the late summer.  Then it is fed into the wonderful old  machine above from another room.

This is the inside of the machine – it engages in some kind of swishy motion evidently.  As you can see, the rice is still brown, that is, it still has its husk.  After it has been swished around a good bit, the kernels fly through some other machines and lose that husk, becoming the white rice we are accustomed to buying to make risotto.

This is the most amazing machine of all and, I suspect, one of the newest.  Each and every grain of rice is scanned by this gleaming device, and if a black speck is detected, that kernel is shot off to another place to become animal food.  Only the unblemished best for us humans!


Then all that remains is to package and label the rice. That happens in another room, seen above.  I have no idea where the fabric for the bags comes from, but it is all cheerful and silly.


After all the cleaning and packaging is done, one needs only customers to buy the rice.  As is so often and so charmingly the case in Italy, selling has more to do with socializing than with actually taking money and handing over goods in exchange.

And finally, here are the cheerful and helpful brothers Tomasoni, Virgilio and Luigi.  They are always willing to discuss rice, to tell you which is the best variety for Risotto (Carnaroli) or to find a particularly happy print bag of whatever it is you want.  You can find them at their Riseria, which is in Rovasenda, just past Arborio.

Unexpected Animal Sightings in Portofino!

17 Monday May 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian men, Italy, Uncategorized

≈ 18 Comments

There’s nothing like having a guest to get you out and about. Portofino is generally not on our list of go-to places (think Disneyland Makes an Italian Fishing Village), but it is on the list of pretty much everyone who comes to visit. And in fact, it is well worth visiting because, touristy as it is, it still looks like a charming little fishing village.

Guest and I wanted particularly to take the ferry from Rapallo to Portofino, because it is such a pretty way to see that stretch of coast. But the weather has been cruel the past two weeks; as soon as the rain stops, which has been infrequently, the wind picks up and the ferry suspends operations. Finally, in desperation, we gave up the ferry notion and just drove the scooters out – which is also a pleasure because the coast road is deliciously windy, and is one of the most famous short stretches of road in Italy. And we learned something worth knowing.  The reason it always looks like Portofino is sunnier and warmer than our hillside home is because it is!

If you haven’t been to Portofino in as a long a time as it’s been for me, you too might be surprised to see the several amusing additions to the sculpture garden above the port. I’m not quite sure what they mean, but they are very funny.

Why a rhino? Beats me. And why is he hanging from straps? Maybe he just dropped in? Or… well, I was going to suggest something slightly off-color, so excuse me if I don’t finish that sentence.

Meerkats. Not only is this mob much larger than life, they are also, obviously, much pinker, and very, very far from their usual home.

Having pooh-poohed Portofino for years as nothing more than a tourist trap I got my comeuppance on this recent visit.  Turns out it still is a quaint little fishing village.  We saw a group of four men working with ropes (couldn’t resist skipping over them, men not amused) as well as this fisherman mending his nets.  He resignedly agreed to my request to take his picture and admitted that yes, it’s a request he receives pretty often.  But he couldn’t have been nicer about it.  He uses his mouth to stiffen the string which runs along a sort of large wooden needle.  Looks like very fussy work to me, but he made nice even stitches.  He said he was a native of Portofino, born and raised.  When he was a lad the town had a full time population of about 1,200.  Now it is somewhere between 300-500, the rest of the property having been purchased by ‘Milanese’ (which is northern Italian for anyone from outside who comes to your town to buy property.  It is most usually used with the adjective ‘ricco.’)

I guess it’s good to get your assumptions shaken up a bit now and then…  guess I’ll have to visit Portofino more often.  I got to see animals way out of context, and I learned that sometimes things are what they seem.

Such a good idea…

13 Thursday May 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian habits and customs, Italy, Uncategorized

≈ 16 Comments

Tags

Cleaning products, Clothes washing soap, Dish washing soap, Neutral, Packaging, Plastic recycling

Do you cringe every time you toss a huge plastic soap container into the trash or the recycle bin? I do, a bit, because I think how much plastic is discarded every day and what a problem it is to dispose of it all, even with good recycling in place. (According to the Clean Air Council, 2.5 million plastic bottles are thrown away every hour… just in America! One-third of American waste is packaging.)

What a pleasure it was to walk into the local IperSoap store (where you can find the elusive dusting wands I crave) and see a new display for something called Neutral:

What a great idea! You buy the plastic bottle one time, and then take it back to the store to be refilled with your cleaning product. I bought the hand dish-washing soap, and while it’s not the best I ever used, it’s better than the inexpensive stuff I usually settle for. So far they seem to sell just dish and clothes washing products, but that’s a great start, since those products usually come in really big plastic bottles.  As you can see, the product itself is not very expensive.

I hope there will be more of this in the future. There are so many things that could be sold without fresh packaging every time.  Here in Italy we use about a thousand different cleaning products (and spend a lot of time cleaning)… so it would be great to see more products sold this way.  We’d be doing old Mother Earth a great big favor.

Passo Carrabile

05 Wednesday May 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian bureaucracy, Italian habits and customs, Italy, Uncategorized

≈ 20 Comments

Tags

Garbage tax, Italian taxes, IVA on Rifiuti, Passo Carrabile, Rifiuti tax, taxes, Taxes in Italy

photo courtesy of areablog.net

It’s silly season for Italian taxes.  In the last couple of weeks we’ve received the Rifiuti tax and the Passo Carrabile tax.  I don’t know why paying for garbage removal is a tax and not a service fee, but that’s what it is. (There’s been a nice lawsuit on this subject; it has resulted in eligibility for an IVA refund for rifiuti tax payers.  Read more about that here or in Elaborations on the right). The rifiuti tax costs about the same here as it used to cost us for a year of garbage pick-up at our home in Connecticut, roughly E350.  The difference, of course, is that in Connecticut the garbage man came to us; here we walk to the Cassonetto di Spazzatura (which, by the way, the Captain thinks is the most sonorous of Italian phrases).  This one we have no problem with because we are getting good service for our money (and yes, we do get good garbage pick-up service).

No, the one we have trouble with is the tax for our Passo Carrabile. It’s an Italian concept, handled as only the Italians would handle it.  ‘Passo Carrabile’, according to the Oxford web translator means ‘driveway,’ but it actually means any alley, drive or portal that must left accessible for the owners.  In other words, don’t park here, buster.

In the U.S. it seems common sense applies more often than not – if there’s a driveway, one knows not to park across its access to the road.  If there’s a store that needs access to get goods in and out, a simple ‘No Parking’ sign, available for not much money at any hardware store will do the trick.  Easy!

Well, you won’t be surprised to learn it’s a little more complicated here.

About three years ago we built, at no small expense, a small parcheggio on the side of the road above our house.  It was a complex project involving many permits, an engineered plan, checks by various officials during construction, new walls, etc.  In fact, the file I have for “Parcheggio” is three times thicker than the file called “House Reconstruction.”  Why the added fuss?  Because we were building something attached to a public road.  In our innocence we thought that The State would be thrilled with one less car parked on a narrow, crowded road.  And insofar as permits were forthcoming without much delay, evidently they were.

But, as the saying goes, No good deed goes unpunished; and we are punished every year for our parcheggio.  Because it opens directly on the road we are obliged to post Passo Carribile signs so that no one will park in the middle of the road.  Seems obvious to us that no one would, especially since cars park on the other side of the street, making it impossible for more than one vehicle to pass through at a time.  A car parked adjacent to our parcheggio might completely block the road.  However, we have access to the street, so we must pay the tax.  Apparently it is based on how many feet of opening you have on the street.  Because of the steep terrain here, our parcheggio runs horizontally along the road, not perpendicular to it.  We have a lot of street frontage, and we pay accordingly.  Last year the Captain went to the appropriate office and said, “We don’t want a Passo Carrabile,” but he was told that because we’re on a public way we are required to have one.  And what does it cost, you may ask?  About the same as it costs to have garbage service.

So every year we pay for making the street we live on incrementally safer and easier to transit.  Oh well.  Italy is a taxing kind of country, and this is the season of silly taxes; probably the tax collector is laughing all the way to the bank.

Rapallo Ha Ha

22 Thursday Apr 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Driving in Italy, Italian festas, Italian holidays, Italy, Pulcinella Awards, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

If you wanted to know where the 14th annual  Cartoons on the Bay Festival in Rapallo was last weekend, all you had to do was follow the sea of yellow balloons that bobbed along the Lungomare, firmly held by young hands.  When I hear the word ‘cartoon’ I think of newspapers, The New Yorker and Gary Larson.  But of course I live in the papery past.  Nowadays cartoons are all about TV shows, videos and animated films.  The Festival’s subtitle should have made it obvious: International Festival of Televised and Cross-Media Animation.

The festival is, perhaps, the Academy Awards of animated television here in Italy, with Pulcinella Awards given in various categories, including TV Series for Preschool, for Kids, for the Tween generation and Young Adults; Educational and Social Products; TV Series Pilot; and Interactive Animation.  To my absolute delight, though, the shows the children evidently found most appealing were the ones that featured real, living people, albeit some of them disguised as giant mice.

or Star Wars Characters

or chickens

or one of my favorites, Batman!

I want the job where you get to dress up in a silly outfit and play with children!

One end of the Lungomare was given over to the Cartoon Village, a series of cheerful white temporary buildings that housed various displays, including several by sponsors.  (RAI, the state-run television, was the main sponsor of the event.  Other sponsors included Kinder Sorpresa (my favorite because they were the only ones to give me something – a white chocolate egg with a prize inside) and Monwatch, a clever and inexpensive water-proof item that can be slipped in and out of plastic watchbands of many colors.)  Here’s a photo of a display of Kinder Sorpresa prizes from the 1970’s.

The largest tent held several hundred people, most of whom happened  to be screaming youngsters at the time I dropped in.  They were excited about the stars of a famous TV show:

The din was extraordinary.  And though I really enjoyed watching the dancing, the crush of people and the decibels chased me out after about five minutes.

After Music Gate, a visit with the Police, who were present in great numbers, was positively calming.  Behind the young lad trying out a fast cycle below is the large bus which is used for education – it houses a bunch of computers that teach highway safety.  In addition, in a neighboring kiosk a policeman was giving a PowerPoint display on safety to a rapt group of older people – probably the grandparents of all the kids screaming in the tent.

Without a doubt, though, my favorite part of the Cartoon festival had nothing to do with cartoons and everything to do with fast cars.  I have never seen a cruiser like this in the U.S. (or such a spiffy police uniform, for that matter).


It’s a Lamborghini Gallardo capable of speeds up to over 200 mph. It lives in Rome and is driven by either the handsome gent standing next to it, or his partner, who was nearby. They sometimes use it to apprehend speeders on the Autostrada, but frequently it is put to a far better use: transporting transplant organs – hearts, kidneys, corneas and so forth. I asked how much of that went on and the policeman said sometimes they do as many as four in a day, sometimes none.

It was a grand festival, and it tied Rapallo up in knots for days.  There was a big bike race on the Saturday, called Cartoons on the Bike.  My sources tell me that some of the most important ciclisti of Italy participated.  In the weeks leading up to the race some of the main streets around Rapallo were re-surfaced, which led to horrible traffic snags.  But as our friend G said, the race is over, but we get to keep the improved roads. The link above to the bike race includes a great many fun pictures of the event, which included children as well as adults and took place between Rapallo and Portofino, on one of the loveliest and most famous stretches of road in the country.

Now… can you guess which person in the photo below is me??!

Dinner at Eight

17 Sunday Jan 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in American habits and customs, Customs, Italian habits and customs, Italy, Uncategorized

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

American dinner hour, Eating in Italy, Italian dinner hour

There are some differences in living habits between the US and Italy that are just plain hard to get used to. For us, coming back to the States for a while, it is very hard to get used to the fact that most people eat dinner at 6 o’clock, or earlier. There’s a restaurant down the street from us here, and when I drove by at 4:45 yesterday evening the parking lot was jammed with cars. Everyone was there for a 5 o’clock dinner (All You Can Eat Fish Fry on Wednesdays and Fridays – another concept that would be foreign and bizarre to an Italian restaurateur).

For us, 5 o’clock is the Hour of Tea, 6 o’clock is the Hour of Drink-n-Snack, 7 o’clock is the Hour of Dinner Preparation and 8 o’clock is the Dinner Hour. We’ve just gotten used to it that way, because that’s the dinner hour in Italy. In fact, away from the main tourist cities you would be hard pressed to find a restaurant that opens its doors before 8 p.m., or perhaps 7:30.

This eating schedule has a ripple effect. Last weekend my friend Margaret and I went to a play at the ASU Gammage Hall – the ‘darkly comic’ ‘August: Osage County‘ by Tracy Letts (it was great – we laughed and groaned). What time did it start? 7 p.m.! The week before the Captain and I went to a delightful John O’Conor piano recital down the street (glorious); it started at 7:30. That would never happen in Italy! When would one eat??!  Typically in Italy the cultural events are before dinner, starting at 4, 5, or even 6 p.m., or after dinner, starting at 9 or 9:30 p.m.

Why the difference?  I think (and this is pure conjecture on my part) that the early eating habits in Arizona are due to the fact that there are so many mid-western transplants here.  On a big mid-western farm you might get up with the sun and have a cup of coffee and a snack.  Then you might work for a few hours and stop mid-morning for an enormous breakfast.  Then you would work again until the sun got low (5 o’clock?) when it would be time for a hearty dinner.  Even though fewer and fewer people work on farms, I think the early eating habit has persisted.

In Italy the large meal was typically eaten mid-day with an hour or two of rest following.  Then work continued until the evening, when a much smaller meal (minestrone?) was eaten.  That is changing somewhat, especially in the large cities, as Italy becomes more an Office Culture.  But most stores and businesses are still closed mid-day and then are open again from 3:30 or 4 until 7:30 or 8, at which point it is time for dinner.

I don’t much care for the late night events any more, but it is delightful to go to a wonderful concert at 5 p.m., come out at 6:30 or 7, take a stroll through the town, find a good restaurant and sit down for a fine meal at 8 or so, a pleasure we miss when we’re in the U.S.

So, why the Dinner at Eight video above?  Well, the title is appropriate, and as a librarian I just couldn’t resist sharing Jean Harlow’s book review.  I bet everyone would like to be a member of her book club!

Let’s Buy a Car!!

14 Monday Dec 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Driving in Italy, Italian habits and customs, Italy

≈ 8 Comments

Tags

Buying a Car in Italy, Nissan Micra, Shopping for a Car in Italy, Test-driving a New Car in Italy

Photo from NissanBlog - thanks!

A few years ago the Captain and I were shopping for an automobile in Italy.  We had bought an aged Peugeout 106 when we first immigrated, and had pretty well beaten it up. We were aching for something that seemed a little more stylish and had a lot more speed.  The Captain has always driven a sports car; it’s one of his Rules.  Being a tall person, I’ve never been in love with squat little two-seaters.  I find them hard to get in and out of, and once in, it’s not always easy to see what’s going on outside your cozy little cockpit.

We looked at every dealer we could find in Chiavari; we looked at Fiats, we looked at Peugeouts, you name it, we looked at it.  Finally we looked at the Nissan Micra and I lost my heart.  This lovely car has the rounded shape I have always defined as ‘cute,’  perhaps even ‘darling,’ certainly ‘irresistable.’  In addition it had some nifty features – a front passenger seat that lifted up for sneaky hidden storage, a key that magically opened the door without having to be inserted in the lock.  It was a dream.  AND, the Captain was willing to compromise on the usual sports car because we sometimes have guests in Italy, and without an unsightly roof rack there is no way to transport either guests or their luggage in a two-seater.

When I say we ‘saw’ all these cars, I am really attacking the issue at its heart.  We saw them; we did not drive them.  We were not invited to drive them.  The Peugeot dealer took us out for a spin, but he insisted on driving.  This concept of look-but-don’t-test-drive was quite foreign to us.  On the other hand, we could see the logic of it given the narrowness of the roads and the nuttiness of some of the people who are navigating them. Still, it left us feeling a bit as if we were buying a pig in a poke.

Nonetheless, a Micra it was to be.  Only problem was, we wanted one right away as we had an actual guest arriving, and there was a road-trip planned, and the old Peugeot 106 was behaving erratically. The Chiavari dealer could not oblige.  The Captain called a dealer he knew in Piemonte who said he could have one for us the next day and the deal was struck over the phone.

Photo courtesy of channel4.com

Ten minutes after he hung up the phone a friend called to inform us that after making us wait for acouple of years, he had decided that yes, he wanted to sell us hisMini Cooper S.  Synchronicity at its worst!

My dream car went the way of all dreams, evaporating in the mist. The Piemonte dealer was gracious and understanding (who would want a Micra if he could have a Mini? that was his reasoning), and the road trip was made in the almost-new Mini.  Getting the darn thing registered in Italy was an amazing and complicated feat, involving a trip to Monaco which had issued the plates (which weren’t really plates, but stickers)… but that’s a story for another day.

Also for another day is the comparison of our car-buying experience with the experience I shared with my friend M several weeks ago as she shopped for a new car in the U.S…. stay tuned.

Bersalgieri Visit Rapallo

23 Friday Oct 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian men, Italy, Law and order, Photographs, Rapallo, Uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Bersaglieri, Bersaglieri parade, Italian Army, Italian Military

For a couple of weeks the main streets of Rapallo have been criss-crossed with hundreds of little Italian flags.  Why? we wondered.  This weekend we found out: the Bersaglieri visted Rapallo and some neighboring towns for a gathering of the Corps from central and northern Italy.  There were many events around their visit, including a concert on Saturday evening and a parade on Sunday morning.  We were able to go to the parade for a few hours, which made us  swell with pride, if not for being Italian, at least for living here.

pre-parade (10)

There’s something about a uniform – or at least there always has been for me – and the signature feathers of the Bersaglieri hat are so over the top (oh excuse the pun) that they are divine.  Where did that idea ever come from?  Was it a type of ill-thought-out camouflage?  Perhaps it was to suggest the speed of flight (though wood grouse, the source of the feathers, have never been noted for speed)?  Me?  I think it was simply a Style Statement, and a very fine one, too.

The Bersaglieri were founded in 1836 to serve as high-speed infantry in the Piemontese Army (this was before Italy was unified). Piemonte could not afford a large, expensive horse-mounted cavalry, so instead developed a superb corps of sharp-shooters that featured quick movement, either on foot or bicycles, and later on motorcycles.  The Bersaglieri never walk – they run everywhere, whether in training, in the field, or in a parade. Their demanding physical training made them useful as mountain troops, too; the Alpini, the elite mountain troops, were founded in 1872, and there is still a friendly rivalry between the two groups (there were several groups of Alpini in the parade and some proud veterans watching).  While there have been as many as 12 regiments of Bersaglieri in the past, today there are six, and they are all now mechanized.

pre-parade (15)

In addition to unique headgear and running everywhere, the Bersaglieri are famous for their fanfara, the brass bands that accompany every regiment.  The musicians must be adept not only at playing, but at playing as they run, because they, too, are obliged to run everywhere they go.  The Fanfara from northern and central Italy formed the major part of Sunday’s parade, and they certainly impressed with their musical skill and physical stamina!

parade (18)

During World War II there were both bicycle and motorized troops:

parade (41)

parade (59)-1

There was a huge ovation for the oldest gent on a bicycle – 92 years old and still going strong:

parade (40)-1

And how about the fellow who has to ride a bike AND play the trumpet??

parade (55)-1

I find it very moving to see old Vets watching a parade, and Sunday was no exception.  There were scores of former Bersaglieri watching the parade; it wasn’t always easy to read their expressions.

veteran

veteran (2)

veteran (3)a

veteran (5)

And of course there was a viewing stand full of dignitaries:

dignitaries (2)b

A parade is always fun, and a military parade particularly stirring.  But only in Italy, I think, will you find a military parade that showcases such stamina, showmanship and style in one package: The Bersaglieri.

If you’re interested in some more photos of the parade, you may see them at a web album here.  I recommend a slide show, F11 for full screen.

Stop, look and listen

10 Saturday Oct 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Driving in Italy, Italy, Law and order, Piemonte, Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Tags

crosswalks, Pedestrian safety, zebra stripes

We are very dull here in Rapallo, I am beginning to think.  Granted, there’s lots of traffic and hubbub downtown, scooters darting in and out of traffic, pedestrians crossing outside the zebra stripes.  But it is the stripes themselves that makes me think we are dull.  Our stripes are the plain old white stripes depicted in the driving manual.  Here’s an example:

rapallo beauty nice ass

(This is an old photo so it shows more of the crosser and less of the crosswalk, but you get the idea…)

This past week we were, once again, in Piemonte (about which you’ll hear more in an upcoming post).  Now there’s a region that knows how to make its crosswalks attractive  and eye-catching.  How about this snappy blue?

crosswalk blue

Red has ever been the color of caution, and this red crosswalk would make any pedestrian feel safe.

crosswalk red-2

But my very favorite is, granted, a variation on the white theme, but done with such artistry.  Nothing says class, whether it’s in the foyer, the bath, or inlaid in the street, more than marble.

crosswalk white

Say… isn’t that the captain crossing outside the stripes?  I bet he didn’t stay in the lines when he colored as a kid, either.

In the spirit of fairness I have to say that just in the last year Rapallo has added some very sparkly little lights that blink feverishly at night along the boundaries of some of the zebra crossings.  But only some of them, which makes me wonder if the others aren’t more easily overlooked by speeding motorists expecting the twinkling visual cue?  In any event, they look quite modern and marvelous… when it’s dark outside.

I’m feeling pretty good about Obama winning the Nobel Peace Prize, so I’ve come up with my own design for a crosswalk, using all the others for inspiration:

flag of crosswalksb

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