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    • Lemon Meringue Pie
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    • Louis’s Apricot Chutney
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    • Pesto
    • Pesto
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    • Polenta Cuncia
    • Pumpkin Sformato with Fonduta and Frisee
    • Rustic Hearth Bread
    • Sicilian Salad
    • Soused Hog’s Face
    • Spotted Dick
    • Swedish Tea Wreaths
    • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
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    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
    • Winter Squash or Pumpkin Gratin
    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Category Archives: Uncategorized

Marcus of Umbria

26 Thursday Aug 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Animals in Italy, Dogs, Italian men, Italian women, Italy, Uncategorized

≈ 15 Comments

Tags

Books, Books about Italy, Collelungo, Dogs, Justine van der Leun, Marcus of Umbria

Book Jacket by Andre Mora

Seldom do I receive an offer to review a book; this was certainly a title I couldn’t resist accepting.  If you love Italy, dogs or both, you won’t want to resist reading it yourself.

Justine van der Leun is a young woman who knows what she wants, whether it’s walking on two feet or four.  Sometimes when she gets what she wants it turns out that she doesn’t want it after all (handsome Italian lover, horse), but sometimes when she gets what she wants it turns out to be life-altering (Marcus).

Justine moves to Italy to live with a man she’s known all of three weeks in the small Umbrian town of Collelungo, population hovering around 200.  There she quickly learns that she has not taken on just the man, but his entire family as well, and they have taken her on, too.  Without a strong extended family background of her own, the realities of an Italian family are a shock to our heroine, and one to which she can never entirely adapt. (There’s a lot here about the strength of the matriarch in the Italian family.)  Also shocking is for Justine to see Italy as it really is, not as we imagine it from movies and other move-to-Italian-paradise books.  Justine may have come to Italy, but it was no paradise.

She remains in Collelungo a year, during which time she adopts a darling but challenging canine whom she christens Marcus. (You’ll learn quite a bit about the rather unfortunate circumstances of Italy’s hunting dogs.)  Despite the doggy title, Justine ends up learning a terrific amount, not just about love but about life, from the family and from the town.  Even more, she learns to know herself a lot better.  That journey is the heart of book, and it is a delight.  Strong-willed, intelligent and, perhaps, a bit privileged and naive, Justine is thrown into a situation where people still kill their own food, where self-sufficiency is a way of life and a point of honor.  She has the grit , humor and humility to absorb the lessons that are offered by the experience.  She’s a modern, witty young woman, and she’s a terrific writer.

What I enjoyed most about the book is that it shows Italy as it truly is in a great many places.  She lived in the ‘real’ Italy, not the Italy of the touristic centers of  Venice, Rome, Florence, not the Italy of ‘Chiantishire’ in Tuscany, or the sun-drenched Riviera.  People in Collelungo are patient, they are sometimes slow, they work incredibly hard, they probably know how to hold a grudge.  Because they live in a town of only 200,  there is nothing they do not know about their neighbors, whom they are very likely to accept just as they are, and they have no secrets of their own. They are not sophisticated, traveled, particularly well-schooled (though some of the young now are); they remember what it was like to be impoverished.  But they know how to laugh, cook, eat, fight, and laugh some more.  As Justine says, they have tailored their expectations to what they have; they are happy.

Photo by ?

And what about Marcus?  She (yes, she) is the agent of Justine’s greatest lesson: responsibility for our actions.  As she herself says, “I had willfully shifted another being’s course, and that meant that I was technically morally bounded to ensure her well-being for a lifetime”.  That doesn’t stop her from making a few more blunders, but one of the most refreshing aspects of this book is the humor with which Justine is able to admit her own shortcomings.

No, she’s not perfect; and neither is Italy or Umbria or her boyfriend and his family, or Marcus (bit of a chicken issue there).  But they all have something wonderful to offer and Justine is smart enough to take it all in.  Her boyfriend’s family, the Crucianis, are as warmly and honestly drawn as is Italy.   And always there’s the sense of humor.

There’s nothing pretentious about Justine van der Leun or her book.  I don’t know her, but having read the book I feel like she’s a friend.  I think you’ll like her too.

No Bad Dogs

22 Sunday Aug 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Animals in Italy, Dogs, Italian festas, Italy, Liguria, Photographs, Uncategorized

≈ 16 Comments

Photo taken by by Pier Luigi Baglioni

San Rocco di Camogli is a lovely frazione high on the hill overlooking its mother town.  The Saint for whom it is named is, rather alarmingly, the patron saint of contagious diseases.  He lived in the 1300’s and helped plague victims during his travels from his native France through Italy.  At one time he himself contracted the plague, and was saved in part by a dear dog who brought him crusts of bread in a cave where he’d taken shelter.

San Rocco’s day is August 16, and for 49 years now the eponymous town has given prizes to reward acts of bravery and courage by our four-footed friends, and to bless the species.As you can see from the photo above, it is exhausting!  But if you are a dog-lover it is a wonderful event to attend.  This year the weather smiled on the many dogs and even more people who came to meet the prize-winners and receive a blessing for the year ahead.  Sonia Gentoso was an excellent Mistress of Ceremonies; without leaving out any important information she managed to keep things moving in as orderly a fashion as possible, given the number of dogs present.  There were a number of important people on the dais for the ceremony, one in an impressive uniform and one with a very handsome ribbon across his chest (probably the sindaco – mayor – but I’m not sure).

The prize-winners were:

Antares.  Antares was not present to receive her prize, although one of the women in her story was there to accept it for her.  Antares usually spends her mornings with her ‘Nona’ while her mistress is at work.  She goes to the second floor and barks outside Nona’s door until she is let in.  One day a neighbor, familiar with this practice, heard Antares barking in the middle of the morning.  Strange, she thought – why is the dog barking now?  So she called the Nona and found that she was very ill from a hemorrhage.  The neighbor called the ambulance, and thanks to the early notice of trouble from Antares, the Nona did not suffer long-term consequences.

Bimba

Bimba saved her family in Genova from a fire.  Awakened in the garage where she sleeps by the smell of smoke, she made her way to the upstairs of the house and barked and scratched on the door until her master awoke and was able to get his wife and 4-year old daughter safely out of the house. But poor Bimba!  She was pregnant at the time, and because of the stress she gave birth later that night to a dead puppy.  The vet was able to safely deliver her of two healthy pups soon afterwards though, so the story has a happy ending for all.

Cody

Cody works with the Scuola Provinciale Cani da Ricerca di Trento and is an ace at finding people who have gone missing.  She did some very unhappy work in Abruzzo after the terrible earthquake.  She won her prize for an event with a happier outcome: an old gent wandered off from the rest home where he lives and was missing overnight.  Cody found him in the woods the next day.  Thanks to her, he did not come to any great harm.

Fado

Clever Fado works with the Polizia di Stato in Genova as a drug-sniffer.  He recently found 5 kilograms of cocaine.

Ioda

You’ll have to look hard to find Ioda, but she’s there.  She won her prize for dragging her master away from the path where they were walking in Monza moments before a huge plane tree fell right where he had been standing.  Because of her, he suffered only some minor cuts instead of being completely crushed.

Lily.  Alas, my photo of Lily did not come out, a pity.  Lily is a 2-year old border collie from Belluno.  Lily works with her master, a volunteer of Soccorso Alpino di Agordo.  A Polish skier was caught in an avalanche and buried under a half-meter of snow for 35 minutes.  Lily found the skier and he was rescued, not long before his supply of air would have run out.

Rocky

Rocky made an incredible journey.  He was abducted from the beach while his master was bathing near Carrara three years ago.  Eventually he ended up in Salerno where he was abandoned by the nomads who had stolen him, and adopted by a kind family there.  But he kept running away, always heading north.  Eventually he left them a final time and made his way to Pisa, where a woman found him.  His collar gave the number of the family in Salerno and she called them.  They said, he is a lovely dog and we love him but he has never adapted to living with us, you keep him.  So she took him to a vet, who found the tattoo identifying his original owner.  They were reunited after 3 years.  It took Rocky 2 months to travel the 625 kilometers from Salerno to Pisa.

Talon

Talon works with the Guardia di Finanza in Genova and is another drug-sniffer.  He recently discovered 7 kilograms of marajuana and 3.5 kilograms of cocaine.

Zoe

Zoe, a 7 year-old Newfoundland, saved three swimmers near Pisa.  Two women were swimming with the 11-month old child of one of them when they were carried away by the swift current.  They shouted for help, and were some 80 meters from the shore when the life-savers and Zoe reached them and brought them to safety.

First Prize winner was Pongo

Pongo was walking with her master near their home in Settimo Milanese when they heard the cries of a 67-year old man who had slipped on the edge of a canal and fallen several meters into the water and mud below.  Though the water was not deep (40 cm – a bit more than 3 feet) the man was too stunned to extricate himself from the mud, and could only moan for help as he commenced drowning.  Pongo’s insistance on dragging his master to the edge of the canal undoubtedly saved the life of the poor man below.

There was the 4th Annual edition of an art contest for young people in conjunction with the event.  This year’s theme was -Un Cane per un Amico – a dog for a friend.  The art was charming, of course.

If you’d like to see some more photos of the event, click here for a web album.  As usual I recommend a slide show.

A dog’s life in Italy can be pretty comfortable; Italians dote on and respect their dogs, although they do not always train them well, and they almost never castrate or neuter them.  In America if you are a mixed breed dog, you are a mutt; in Italy, you are a ‘fantasia.’ I know which one I’d rather be!

Mobster Caught by a Plate of Spaghetti

18 Wednesday Aug 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Crime, Customs, Italian men, Italian women, Uncategorized

≈ 14 Comments

Mobster undone by love of mamma’s cooking

Fugitive Camorra clan suspect captured while tucking in

17 August, 17:10

Mobster undone by love of mamma's cooking

(ANSA) – Naples, August 17 – A suspected member of the Neapolitan mafia, the Camorra, has been arrested by Italian police after being unable to resist his mother’s culinary delights.

Rosario Scognamillo, a 39-year-old suspected of being a high-ranking member of the Grimaldi Camorra clan, was captured by agents Monday while having lunch at his mother’s home.The man, who is accused of criminal association related to drugs trafficking, had been on the run since May. He may have thought his return home would not be noticed with many Italians relaxing on their summer holidays at the moment.

The above was in the English section of the morning’s ANSA web-site. Could there be anything that speaks more clearly of the Italian male’s love of his mother and her cooking?  I imagine she was doing his laundry while he ate, before heading over to the hideout to give it a good clean.

We have frequently been struck by the way Italian parents serve their children.  It is sweet and loving, but we’re not sure it’s doing Italian boys any favors.  According to an NBC report, more than half of Italian men between 25 and 35 years old still live with their parents.  The young women I know tell me they do not want Italian husbands – they are too spoiled.  I wonder if the same thing is going on in the US?

In any case, it certainly makes the job easier for the police, doesn’t it?

Tile Town

15 Sunday Aug 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian Churches, Italy, Photographs, Uncategorized

≈ 9 Comments

Tags

mosaics, Ravenna, Theodoric

Nothing gets us stirring and away from our hillside like the arrival of curious company.  My sister, planning her visit, had requested a trip to Ravenna to see the incomparable mosaics there.  Fresh from a visit to Turkey she was eager to compare Italian Gothic and Byzantine art to that of the Ottoman Empire.  The Captain and I visited Ravenna a few years ago and enjoyed it immensely, so it took no arm-twisting at all to get me tapping away for reservations on Venere.

Although the city is across the boot, just a few miles from the Adriatic, it is a pretty and easy drive of only about 3.5 hours to get there from Rapallo.  In fact, years ago Ravenna was on the Adriatic.  Silt buildup since the year dot has now stranded the town some four miles from the sea.

We spent two nights in a lovely hotel, the Palazzo Galletti Abbiosi, which is centrally located, comfortable and has a terrific staff.  It was simplicity itself to walk from our digs to all the major sights in the city.

Ravenna offers tourists free bicycles!  We didn’t stumble on this great opportunity ’til our last day, but it is definitely the best way to get around this flat town.  Leave some identification and fill out a form at the Information Bureau and you will be given the key to your very own bike.

Happy sister with free bicycle

Ravenna is most famous for her mosaics, some of which date from  the early 5th century CE.  Theodoric,  leading an army of Ostrogoths, conquered the city in 493, beginning an enlightened and wise 33-year reign which saw extensive land reclamation and an enormous amount of construction.  Amongst his projects was his residence, The Palatium (now gone, but we know what it looks like from a mosaic):

(Interesting fact: after the death of Theodoric and a 9-year reign by his daughter, the Byzantines under Belasarius wrested control of the city from the Ostrogoths.  They removed what they could of Gothic images from the mosaics; in the photo above, for instance, figures have been replaced by curtains.)

Others of Theodoric’s grand buildings include the Anastasis Gothorum, now the Church of Spirito Santo; and the incredible Basilica Sant’Apollinare Nuovo. (Theodoric was an Arian, that is he followed the teaching of Arius which had been condemned by the Council of Nicea in 325).

Ravenna’s concentration of Gothic and Byzantine mosaics is astonishing – and breath-taking.  There are several different ways to make mosaics; the ones in Ravenna are done in the most difficult way: the stones are placed directly into the wet cement on the wall or floor.  A special fast-drying cement was used,  so only a small section could be tiled at one time.  It’s hard (impossible?) to imagine how the artists could get such subtle variation in color tones, express such personality, and make such complicated geometric patterns when they could do only a little bit at a time and were using only small chips of colored stone, glass or gems for their medium.  I suppose they laid everything out ahead of time, but still…  it is all amazing and very beautiful.

Baptism of Christ, Arian Baptistry

Perhaps altered and renamed portrait of Theodoric, photo by Pidge Cash

Galla Placidia, photo by P. Cash

Other mosaic methods include sticking paper to the right side of the tiles with a soluble glue, mounting the tiles bottom side in the cement and then soaking off the paper and glue when the cement has dried; or sticking the tiles right-side up into wax and applying the cement afterwards, then mounting the whole on the wall or floor.  This very kind woman explained it all to us as she worked away on her own replica of an ancient mosaic:

The thing that is so difficult to fathom is the teeny size of the tiles used in the mosaics, and the snugness with which they fit together.  It’s enough to make one blind just watching a demonstration like the one above, never mind trying to make a mosaic oneself.

There is so much to see in Ravenna, and we saw almost all of it.  At the bottom of this post there is a list of monuments (eight in Ravenna are World Heritage Sites) with links for history and photographs.  Here is a link to my own web album from our trip.

But traveling in Italy is not just about seeing the beautiful art and learning some of the long and varied history of the country.  There is always Food (and it does have a capital ‘F’ in this country).  And there are always, and for me most interestingly, the people.  We had an experience in Ravenna which I’ve had once or twice before in Italy, but never in the US.

Our map-reading skills are not especially stellar, and at one point we found ourselves – or rather we lost ourselves – not knowing exactly where we were or how to get to the church we wanted to visit.  We were next to a shady park where two elderly gents were having a natter under the trees.  I brazenly interrupted them to ask directions; there ensued a long conversation between them about the best way to direct us, having quite a bit to do with a fruit store.  Finally they bid each other farewell, and one of them said, “Come with me.”  He then walked with us for ten minutes, depositing us on the threshold of our destination.  Evidently that was a lot simpler, or perhaps  more interesting, than just giving directions.  What a doll.

Salvatore and dog Willy, photo by P. Cash

Here is a linked list of the principal sites in Ravenna:

Mauseleum of Galla Placidia**
San Vitale**
Church of the Spirito Santo and the Arian Baptistry**
San Giovanni Evangelista
Sant’Apollinare Nuovo**
Sant’Apollinare in Classe *    **
Cathedral
San Francesco
Neonian Baptistry**
Archepiscoal Chapel**
Mauseleum of Theodoric**

* This beautiful Sant’Apollinare is in the town of Classe (which was a port city), located about 5 km from Ravenna proper.

** World Heritage Sites, built in 5th and 6th centuries

And finally – one of my favorite mosaics:

Hellfire in the Mausaleum of Galla Placidia

PS – Pat Smith has written here, in the Italian Notebook, about Orsoni, the company that makes the glass tiles that are used by many mosaicists.

PPS – Debra and Liz of the blog Debra and Liz’s Bagni di Lucca visited Ravenna in April. You can read their account and see their photos here, here, here, here, here and here.

Gara di Pesto

08 Sunday Aug 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Food, Italian recipes, Liguria, Rapallo, Uncategorized

≈ 13 Comments

Tags

Fred Plotkin, Giancarlo Dughera, Latte Tigullio, Marcello Ghizzo, Pesto, RapalloExpo, Recipes from Paradise, Roberto Ciccarelli

6 contestants, each with mortar and pestle; 7 ingredients; 20 minutes; and 2 judges:  that’s all that was required for the 3rd annual Gara di Pesto al Mortaio which took place Saturday afternoon as part of RapalloExpo 2010.

This four-day event featured a street market with more stalls than usual, conferences on various aspects of food production (bees and honey!), entertainment, and my favorite: the pesto cook-off.  It’s not really a cook-off, of course, because pesto isn’t cooked; so perhaps ‘competition’ would be a better word, though that hardly conveys the sense of excitement as a small crowed watched the very physical preparation of Liguria’s signature sauce.

Fred Plotkin, in his wonderful book Recipes from Paradise (Little, Brown and Company, 1997) gives 16  pesto recipes, including one for tourists, and one for people who are physically impaired and must use a food processor.  (Impairment is the only excuse for using a processor, according to Mr. Plotkin, because the delicate perfumes and flavors of the ingredients will be compromised by the harsh treatment of the metal blades.)

No, mortar and pestle is the only way to make pesto.  And there are only 7 ingredients in the classic Ligurian pesto (since Liguria is the home of pesto, it goes without saying that Ligurian pesto is the only one worthy of consideration).    The 7 ingredients needed are coarse sea salt, basil leaves (preferably small), garlic, pinoli, Pecorino Romano cheese, Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and olive oil.  (Mr. Plotkin’s rendition of the classic dish can be found here.)

Chef Mario (pictured below), president of the Association of Chefs for the Genova region and Chef of Ristorante Da Mario in Rapallo was joined in the judging duties by a gentleman from Genova who is, if I understood correctly, somehow involved in the oversight of Pesto making in the region.

Pesto is made by putting a little bit of sea salt in the mortar, and carefully but enthusiastically adding the other ingredients and grinding it all into a thick paste.  The finished product looks like this:

The contestants made only a small amount of pesto, enough for the judges to taste to reach their decision.

The first to finish was this lady, though sadly she did not win first place:

So who did win?  Well, third place went to Marcello Ghizzo, center below:

and the second prize was awarded to Giancarlo Dughera:

The grand 1st place finisher was Roberto Ciccarelli:

What were the prizes?  There was something that looked like a large gym bag, an apron, and various condiments from Latte Tugullio, the local company that generously sponsors many civic events.  Oddly, included in the prizes were jars of… pesto!

The carton pictured above is a milk product called  Prescinsêua (pronounced pray-zhun-sieu), also called Quagliata Genovese.  It is a basic Ligurian ingredient made of fermented milk, not too different from clabbered cream or, perhaps, sour cream.  Some people use Prescinsêua in their pesto-making.

It was a lovely event.  Everyone from participants to audience to judges were good-humored.  Finally, here are a couple of pictures of the audience, because what’s a Gara without a crowd?

Expatriate on the move

20 Tuesday Jul 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Uncategorized

≈ 4 Comments

Expatriate is going on a little toot – will return the middle of August.  Meanwhile the blog is having a holiday, too.  Hope to see you all in a few weeks… meanwhile, here are some teasers for what what’s coming when I get back:

I Am…

15 Thursday Jul 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Photographs, Uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Death head

So here’s what happened. I was sitting at the very same desk where I’ve sat for over eight years now (not all day, mind you), and I gazed out the window for inspiration (I was thinking about this blog…). When suddenly it hit me.

There’s a death head in our studio!  Someone’s been doing voodoo with our window trim! It really startled me, because I had simply never noticed it before. Pat, and Gil, you’re correct, it is the bit of hardware through which a meal rod moves to lock the window.  Bagnidilucca, you’re close with the door hinge, but not quite (there are some great old hinges in this country, though).  Kudos to Kate for seeing the skull.  Jennifer and Judy – a tin or bottle opener. hmmmmm. Now I’m going to have to gaze at the picture to try to see what you see!   Nope, all I can see is the skull, the terrible skull – ahhhhhhhhh!  Hilary – an Eskimo chastity belt? I think this gets the award for most imaginative interpretation of the photo. Or perhaps that should go to you, StatusV. It’s not every day I can contribute to someone’s identity crisis!

Here’s how innocuous this looks on the window as a whole.

But I have to tell you, every time I look at it now all I can see is a skull, and frankly it’s a little bit creepy.

Punta Chiappa

02 Friday Jul 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Cats, Hiking in Italy, Italian Churches, Uncategorized

≈ 14 Comments

Tags

Punta Chiappa, San Nicolo di Capodimonte

How many steps from San Rocco to Punta Chiappa? I meant to count, but of course lost track somewhere along the way. I can tell you this: the change in elevation is from sea level to 210 meters above sea level; and the last little staircase on the return back up to San Rocco has 206 steps.

But I’m getting ahead of myself…

Punta Chiappa is the rocky tip of one side of the Portofino Peninsula. Like San Fruttuoso, which is not far distant, you can get there only by boat or on foot. The difference is that to reach San Fruttuoso by foot takes several hours from either Camogli or Portofino. You can reach Punta Chiappa in about half an hour from San Rocco, the lovely community above Camogli on a delicious woodsy path that has long paved sections and, by someone else’s estimate, 900 steps.

From Punta Chiappa there is a fine view back towards Camogli and the big hills behind it; down the coast to Genova and perhaps, on a clear day, the French Riviera; and to the southeast the continuation of the Portofino peninsula.

The point itself is made of rock, and plenty of it, although some brave plants have found a foothold there.

All the beaches on the peninsula feature these beautiful gray rocks with white lines in them.

The day we walked down was hot and steamy, but in the early afternoon the clouds rolled in and thunder began sounding its alarm over the mountains.  Nonetheless we set out on our adventure.  In fact the storms never materialized, but the cloud cover made the hike down and the looong hike back much more bearable.

There is not a lot of commercial activity at Punta Chiappa.  Once upon a time a lot of ship related iron work was done there, but no more.  You can still see the small cranes that moved heavy anchors and so forth, mounted on the side of the path.  There are several great looking restaurants there.  I’ve never eaten at one, but it’s now on my list of things to do.  There is also, a bit further on, a restaurant for cats.

The door is well locked, but the kitties can come and go through the mouse hole below.  Inside are several trays full of kuckies – which is what we call cat kibble, because when the cats chew it it sounds like kuckie kuckie kuckie.  We saw one of the generous women who keep the restaurant stocked, as well as several satisfied customers who were just leaving.

(By the way, if you like pictures of cats, check out the web album Cats of Italy; click the button for a slideshow.)

Cats of Italy

It felt a bit like stepping into a child’s story book when we arrived.  There were not many people and there was a magical haze over the sea; boats drifted in and out of visibility, and it was not hard to imagine there were some great pirate adventures happening out there (if you squint you will see a 4-masted sailing ship in the photo below).

We swam a little, and read our books as the ferry and fishing boats trolled back and forth.  A sudden movement caught our eyes: a school of sardines skimming across the top of the sea, with a dark shadow not quite breaking the surface behind.  A second school appeared and skimmed, followed immediately by the graceful black arc of the back of a dolphin in search of supper.  It all happened so fast we weren’t sure we had actually seen it.  But we had, and it was wonderful.

Wonderful too was the walk back up to San Rocco.  We took a much steeper, but shorter path which brought us in no time to San Nicolo’ di Capodimonte.  I know!  another San Nicolo’.  Am I fated ever to find San Nicolo’ when I am with this particular friend?  Evidently so!

This church, however, is in much better condition than its namesake near Genova. And there is another restoration underway. We saved our visit to the interior for the walk back, and were rewarded with a cool and peaceful respite. This church also is very simple inside, though it boasts a particularly beautiful rose window.

San Nicolo’ di Capodimonte is reputed to have been consecrated in 345 CE, although of course there are no written records to confirm this.  The present Romanesque church is supposed to have been built around the year 1000.  Like its poor brother church, this San Nicolo’ too passed into private hands in 1860 during the suppression of the churches, which accounts for its lack of interior decoration.  In 1865 Cav. Andrea Bozzo bought the church, restored it and built the neighboring residential houses.  The church reopened for worship in 1870.  After the death of Cav. Bozzo’s son in 1910 the church again became ecclesiastical property.

I can tell you two more items of interest.  Although the church is called ‘Capodimonte’ it is nowhere near the top – more like halfway down.  The second thing is this, heed my hard-earned advice: if you take this hike, and I hope some day you will, don’t wear sandals!

A Modest Festa

28 Monday Jun 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian festas, San Maurizio di Monti, Uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Not all Festas in Italy are grand affairs with costumes, regional dances, unusual local food and hoards of people.  Some, like the Lions Club Pancake Breakfasts I remember in the States, are simply a modest offering of food and some paid-for entertainment as a means of raising funds.

San Maurizio’s Fireworks committee had just such a festa a week ago.

Under ordinary circumstances I’m sure the dining tables would’ve been set up outside under a leafy tree.  But we had not been living with ordinary circumstances; we had been living with rain, rain, and more rain.  Sensibly the organizers decided to move the festa indoors.  But where?  Fortunately a property-owner nearby has an apartment that is only partway through restoration, and he was willing to rent it for the festa.  It made for one of the more unusual venues I’ve ever seen for such an event.

A house in the midst of restoration is not necessarily the most festive sight, but the organizers the Fireworks Festa did their best with happy face plastic streamers to dress up the entry.

The offerings were uncharacteristically simple as well: ravioli al ragu or trofie al pesto; spiedini (meat cubes grilled on a stick), sausage or matama’ (thin-sliced meat) with gravy; french fries; simple tossed salad; beer, wine, water.  The prices were very reasonable (E 5 for the trofie al pesto; E 3 for the sausage), and the plates were assembled in the ground floor kitchen by the cheerful ladies (no, those are not hardhats).

Once we left our order with Giuseppe at the Cassa we were instructed to go upstairs and find a table.  We were early so finding a seat was not a problem, but it was the oddest arrangement I’ve ever seen.  It being an apartment, and a Ligurian one at that, the upstairs was divided into three quite small rooms with a long hall and what I imagine will someday be a bathroom.

Evidently the children helped with the decorations which can be reused, in a pinch, at Christmas time next year.  Each small bedroom held two tables and bench seating – all new, from the looks of it, and quite comfortable.

The Captain had sausage and French fries (we were too early, the oil wasn’t up to temperature yet so they were, alas, a big soggy).  I had the trofie al pesto, which is one of the best things in the world to eat.  This bowl was superb.

We didn’t have dessert, which is a pity (but a person can only do so much – do you see how much trofie there is in that bowl??).  The desserts were all home made: a couple of lovely tortas and some cupcake-sized custard, or perhaps pana cotta, in both vanilla and chocolate.

It was small in scale, and the surroundings were certainly modest.  But for all of that, it was a festa, and there was a holiday air about the whole proceeding.  Outside on the terrace one of the men was dancing with a broom between bouts of sweeping. The sun was shining for the first time in days, and everyone’s spirits were high.

Other men were setting up the sound system for the afternoon and evening entertainment.  All afternoon we  listed to karaoke, which is quite amusing. It’s especially endearing to hear the high croakings of the kids, shouting out the words in a sort of tuneless unison.  It was tempting to go back and belt out a few oldies in English, but I resisted.  In the evenings  there was live entertainment – Carmen!  No, not the opera, the woman.

She came on Sunday; Ely was there Saturday night with her orchestra.  We were all buttoned up in the house because of inclement weather, and never heard a peep – perhaps the performers were indoors as well.

It amazes me that a town of only about 500 people can organize a two-day event like this, at least twice a year, and everything goes without a hitch (well, everything except the weather). It’s a real community effort.   Giuseppe said that, given the weather, the event had been a success and some money had been raised for the fireworks.    Cross your fingers for a fine evening on San Maurizio Day September 22; the Comitato Fuochi deserve it.

Meanwhile, Rapallo is gearing up for the Really Big Festa – 3 days (July 1, 2 and 3) in honor of our patron the Madonna of Montallegro.

Sad Day for Some

25 Friday Jun 2010

Posted by farfalle1 in Italy, Sports, Uncategorized

≈ 7 Comments

Tags

Italian Football, Italian Soccer, World Cup

Rapallo, and all of Italy for that matter,  is draped in crepe after Italy’s upset loss to Slovakia in yesterday’s World Cup game.  Well actually, Rapallo is draped in sun and beach towels, but there is an air of resigned sadness amongst soccer fans of all stripes.

Here’s what’s really good about an Italy World Cup game – you can drive through Rapallo and the streets are eerily deserted and navigation is a snap. We visited a car mechanic’s shop and had to tear him away from his buzzing, humming radio – the radio was fine, it was those plastic horns the fans blow, the vuvuzelas.  Then I stopped with the Captain at his golf course, also deserted.  Inside the club house, though, we saw no fewer than 4 big-screen TV’s, each with a crowd of men (only men!) watching and offering unsolicited and unheard advice to the players and coaches.  Then I went to the local AgriTech to buy some plant food – the radio was on very, very loudly – more swarms of bees.

It seemed there would be no one at exercise class, either – I arrived about 10 minutes before it was due to start.  2 minutes later the game ended and 5 minutes after that about 15 other exercisers streamed in.

Following football is a national pastime in both the U.S. and Italy, though the games followed are completely different.  Here’s another difference between the two countries.  We were in Arizona when the Phoenix Cardinals won a berth in the Super Bowl XLIII (2009).  It was absolutely quiet all around the town immediately after the game.  Here, if Italy so much as scores a goal in a world cup match the town erupts in noise – shouts, car horns, cheers.  The enthusiasm is infectious and very, very loud.  Kind of like vuvuzelas but without the plastic.

So now we will all be sad for a few days because we’re out of the Cup race; then we can begin watching and waiting for 2014, when surely Italy will once again be a contender.

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