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  • Recipes
    • ‘Mbriulata
    • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
    • *Captain’s Boston Baked Beans*
    • *Cherry Tart*
    • *Crimson Pie*
    • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
    • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana* – Eggplant Parmesan
    • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
    • *Pizzoccheri della Valtellina*
    • *Pumpkin Ice Cream*
    • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
    • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast* on the rotisserie
    • *Shrimp and Crayfish Tail Soup*
    • *Spezzatino di Vitello*
    • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
    • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
    • *Tagliarini with Porcini Mushrooms*
    • *Tagliatelli al Frutti di Mare*
    • *Tzatziki*
    • 10th Tee Apricot Bars
    • Adriana’s Fruit Torta
    • Artichoke Parmigiano Dip
    • Best Brownies in the World
    • Clafoutis
    • Cod the Way Sniven Likes It
    • Cold Cucumber Soup
    • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
    • Easy spring or summer pasta
    • Fagioli all’ucelleto
    • Fish in the Ligurian Style
    • Hilary’s Spicy Rain Forest Chop
    • Insalata Caprese
    • Kumquat and Cherry Upside Down Cake
    • Lasagna Al Forno con Sugo Rosato e Formaggi
    • Lemon Meringue Pie
    • Leo’s Bagna Cauda
    • Leo’s Mother’s Stuffed Eggs
    • Louis’s Apricot Chutney
    • Mom’s Sicilian Bruschetta
    • No-Knead Bread (almost)
    • Nonna Salamone’s Famous Christmas Cookies
    • Pan-fried Noodles, with Duck, Ginger, Garlic and Scallions
    • Pesto
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    • Pickle Relish
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    • Rustic Hearth Bread
    • Sicilian Salad
    • Soused Hog’s Face
    • Spotted Dick
    • Swedish Tea Wreaths
    • The Captain’s Salsa Cruda
    • Tomato Aspic
    • Vongerichten’s Spice-Rubbed Chicken with Kumquat-Lemongrass Dressing
    • Winter Squash or Pumpkin Gratin
    • Zucchini Raita

An Ex-Expatriate

~ and what she saw

An Ex-Expatriate

Category Archives: Uncategorized

The Best Thing I Ate Last Week

22 Thursday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in American recipes, Food, Uncategorized

≈ 1 Comment

Tags

eating lobster, how to kill a lobster, lobster

lobster-aftermath

Not much comment required here… the best place in the world to eat the best lobsters in the world is New England, preferably within 100 miles of the coast.  We bought these beauties live, from a tank; each one weighed about 1.5 pounds.

Now the awkward part – how to kill the little dears?  While plunging them headfirst into a large pot of boiling water is the time-honored way, some say that there is a more humane way to do it with a knife, which you can see here, complete with gruesome photos of lobster-cide.  A friend skilled in biology once told me that lobsters have such a basic nervous system there is some doubt about whether they actually feel pain, as we think of it.  Who knows?  Ask a lobster!

The advantage of the quick knife through the brain is, supposedly, instant and relatively painless death.  The benefit of the boiling water method accrues completely to the murderess – one can look the other way and scream while thrusting the beast into the pot.  That way you won’t hear it if it screams.  Surely death by boiling water is also quick?  I have never heard a lobster scream, but then, being a practitioner of the second method, I have a pretty well-developed scream of my own.

However you choose to do in your lobster, serve it with drawn butter and lemon, and put out a big bowl for shells and extra liquid, as well as plenty of napkins. If you’ve never eaten lobster and don’t know how to tackle it, you can find some excellent instruction here.

A note on what you might find within:  if you find some orange stuff you’ve got a female and those are her eggs – considered delicious by many.  The green stuff is the lobster’s liver; while it is yummy, it might not be such a good idea to eat it; the liver is where all the poisons and contaminants of the lobster’s body gather.  The lobster is a bottom-dwelling garbage eater, so what his body considers poison is probably pretty gross.

Is it worth traveling to New England to eat lobster.  Oh yes!  The ‘shedders’ (lobsters who have outgrown their old, hard carapace and are wearing a new one that is still soft) have less meat in relation to the shell size, but the shell is much softer, and some consider the meat sweeter.  Typically a lobster sheds in the summer, so if you want a crusty old fella bursting with meat, eat lobster  in the winter or spring.  Having said that, my two companions had hard-shell lobsters and mine was soft-shelled; you really just never know.

Buon Appetito!

Expatriate in a Cold Climate

20 Tuesday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Driving in the U.S., Travel, Uncategorized, Weather

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

cold weather, driving on icy roads, New England winter, New Hampshire, Vermont

cold-winter-sun

No, this is not a black and white photo… see that brush of brown on the shed, bottom right?  a hint of red in the barn?  This is New England winter, just as I remember it:  life lived many days in black, white and shades of gray.  That little faint ball in the sky?  Yeah, that’s the sun.  Sort of.

We lived in New England for decades and loved it, but having been away for several years it is a shock to place oneself in Vermont in January.  -20 F (-29 C) is very, very cold.  So cold that when you go out to feed the shivering birds your hands become numb almost immediately.  The good thing about -20 F is that it is accompanied by cloudless blue skies – the sort of frigid blue that makes the phrase ‘blue is a cool color’ seem completely inadequate.

Here are some of the superficial differences between winter life in New England and winter life in Rapallo or Arizona:  1) It takes 5-10 minutes to bundle up to go outside, even for a few minutes work or fun; another 5-10 to unbundle when back indoors.  2)  One’s appetite increases geometrically as the temperature plunges – the colder it is, the hungrier we are and the more we eat.  3) Exercise – you can take a crunchy walk in the snow on the verge of the road, but you won’t stay out long.  Or you can ski, skate, or winter hike, each of which may well involve a drive somewhere.  4) And if you decide to take that drive… well, I’ll let the photos below from our trip back to the airport tell the tale:

3-off-road2

and-another-accident

another-accident

In all we saw a total of 10 cars off the road on a 30-mile stretch of  Interstate 89 in New Hampshire.  Fortunately we did not suffer this fate and I reached my plane, thanks to daring driving by M.,  with 15 minutes to spare.

Stepping into the 70 F night air at Sky Harbor Airport was a  shock of another sort, as was smelling the perfume of the blooming  tree off the deck and standing outside, uncoated, to admire the wash of stars in the dark, moonless sky.

Would I go back to New England in the winter?  In a heartbeat.

Wanderers

12 Monday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in American habits and customs, Customs, Travel, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

restless gene, restlessness, Travel, urge to travel, wanderlust

Courtesy of touregypt.net

Courtesy of touregypt.net

A December “Briefly Noted” in the New Yorker about Edmund White’s new biography of Rimbaud struck a synchronous note with an essay by Bruce Chatwin entitled “It’s a nomad nomad world,”  which I happened to read a few days later.  Why?  Rimbaud and Chatwin were both inveterate wanderers (and I hope the similarities end there because Rimbaud sounds horrid and I like the restless Chatwin).

Why do we wander? Why would someone with a lovely place to live in Italy want to spend time elsewhere?  Why does anyone want to pick up stakes and move?  It’s not all economics or thinking that ‘the grass is greener over there’.  Chatwin, in his essay, posits that our genetic heritage makes us move: “All our activities are linked to the idea of journeys.  And I like to think that our brains have an information system giving us our orders for the road, and that here lie the mainsprings of our restlessness.”

Man has existed in more or less his present state for perhaps 200,000 years; civilization dates from at least 4,000 BC., or earlier.  Before that people wandered of necessity to find food and/or shelter.  Now, maybe, we wander because of the restless gene that pricks our curiosity and makes us want to see the geography of other parts of the world, hear strange languages and meet people with different frames of reference (and maybe eat some new and interesting food as well).  Maybe, as well, that urge for movement makes 1-hour commutes acceptable to vast numbers of people who are otherwise sane.

There are those who cheerfully wander in their imaginations, and sometimes I think they have the best trips of all.  At the very least they’re home in time for supper.  But others are afflicted with such wanderlust that a month at ‘home’ is painful.   Most of us, I suppose, fall somewhere in between, being happy by our own hearths most of the time, while enjoying an occasional safe journey.

But isn’t it nice when planning the madness of, say, airplane travel or a long stay in a strange place, to know that we really can’t help it?  It’s a biological imperative!

Yesterday I put my visiting sister and her friend on a plane for home and I’m going to leave sunny, warm Arizona to go to grey, wintery Vermont for about a week.  It’s something I just have to do…

Where are you going?  Do you travel frequently or are you a homebody?

Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans

07 Wednesday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in American recipes, Food, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Arizonican food, crispy tortillas, fried tortillas, tortillas

img_77191

While he was working on these tasty goodies I asked the Captain if he would call this Tex-Mex food.  He thought for a while and opined that no, these are Arizonican – so here you have it: the first entry in a whole new food category.

Its best to fry up the tortillas yourself, though you can buy them already crisped. After the frying you will put the toppings on and broil.  Garnish with salsa cruda and, if you like it, sour cream.  I’m of the school that believes there is little in the world that is not improved with the addition of sour cream, but there are those who don’t agree, strange as it may seem. The recipe for what you see above can be found here, or by clicking under recipes over on the right. The recipe for the salsa is here, and also on the right.

There are two great things about this dish: 1) It’s really fun to make and 2) It’s infinitely adaptable to what you have around and what you like to eat. It is only coincidental that these look like pizzas, it does not mean that we are pining for our adopted country.  Well, maybe a little…

2009 Doggerel

01 Thursday Jan 2009

Posted by farfalle1 in Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Put a lentil in your pot,

Make a wish for quite a lot,

Kick the old year out the door.

Let the New Year bring you more

of all you wish for and all you cravery

health and wisdom, joy and bravery.

To all who visit this blog o’ mine ~ I wish you the best possible in 2009. No doubt it will be quite a ride.

I am grateful that you read and comment.  Come back often.

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

The Best Thing We Ate – Pumpkin Ice Cream

28 Sunday Dec 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in American recipes, Food, Uncategorized

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

ice cream, pumpkin ice cream, Thanksgiving ice cream

It was a few weeks ago that we ate Sherri’s incomparable Pumpkin Ice Cream.  She has been kind enough to share the recipe, which you can find here.

img_7250

Don’t skimp on the trimmings!  You can see them above the bowl of ice cream: caramel sauce, candied pecans, and rum-soaked raisin.  All of them add immeasurably to the ice cream experience.  I especially like the pecans, but the others are awfully good too.  And as Sherri has pointed out, if all the raisins aren’t eaten with the ice cream they make a delightful little mid-afternoon nibble in the following days.

The final drop…

22 Monday Dec 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Italy, Liguria, Rapallo, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Acqua Potabile, water problem

photo-water-dropThe Water Problem, so movingly and eloquently described here, has been resolved.  I don’t imagine anyone’s particularly happy; we certainly aren’t.  But at least it’s over.

Our lawyer looked at all the documents and told us that we must pay the c. E 2,500 that Acqua Potabili demanded.  Our only remaining recourse is to go to the neighbors for help.

The Captain called A.P. and arranged to have all documents e-mailed to us here in the States.  There will be no second shoe dropping.  The bill we received here covered up to September, when we discovered and corrected the problem.  It began in excess of E 6,000, to which Mr. A.P. applied a bewildering series of reductions to arrive at the E 2,500 figure.

It all has a bit of good-cop bad-cop feel to it.  Bad Cop – “You owe us E 6,000!”  Good Cop – “But you only have to give us E 2,500!”  This, I guess, is meant to make us feel better, and to make up in some way for the appalling lapse of time between meter reads and bills.  But in fact, the bill is about 75 times larger than what we would reasonably expect, and somehow even though A.P. has made big concessions, it just doesn’t feel all that good.

Except for the fact that it’s over.  That part feels just fine.

Gee Whiz!

19 Friday Dec 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Photographs, Uncategorized

≈ 6 Comments

Tags

Mail, Post, U.S. Postal Service

Disclaimer – this is another postal post.  But I can’t resist writing it because I mail-truckam completely amazed.

Those of you living in the States full time are probably accustomed to such miraculous service, but I am left with my mouth agape, saying Gee Whiz over and over again.

I had five Christmas boxes to mail off, and dreaded going to the Post Office.  When I went to the USPO web site to research what it would cost to mail my packages I discovered that I wouldn’t have to go to the Post Office at all; the Post Office would come to me.

That’s not quite true; I had to go to the Post Office to pick up Priority Mail boxes in which to ship the goodies.  But they’re free – which means I didn’t have to stand in the long holiday line to pay for them.  I simply walked in, took what I needed and walked out. I have to admit, I expected bells to ring and policemen to run out to arrest me for stealing.  But no.

AND there is a flat rate for mailing these priority-rate boxes.  A large box costs $12.50 to mail to a US destination, and a smaller box $9.30.  It doesn’t matter how much it weighs, as long as it’s less than 70 pounds (you couldn’t get 70 pounds in those boxes unless you’re mailing gold, which I don’t recommend).

So I packed my boxes, went online, printed mailing labels and postage, paid online with a credit card, attached the labels to the boxes (I used plain paper and clear packing tape), made an online request for pick-up and that was that.  This morning I put the boxes by my front door and when I returned from errands they were gone.  In their place was a receipt from the mail carrier. They will be delivered from California to Vermont and points in between in 2-3 days.  And I can track them.

The only way they could improve the service, I think, would be to do the shopping for me and pay for the presents.  Maybe next year?

n.b. Reader Giovanni sent in a very useful comment which said, in part,

“Shall we tell to ours readers that in Italy we have a PostaCelere? You go to the Post Office buy your standard package and send it for a 10-30 euro. Your package will be delivered in 24-48 hrs in any civilized location worldwide.”

I didn’t want this very helpful information to be buried in comments.  I had no idea this service was available in Italy and am happy to know about it.

Mail Shock PS

16 Tuesday Dec 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Italian habits and customs, Italian men, Italy, Uncategorized

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

il postino, Italian mail, the mailman

postino1The captain was sad that in the earlier mail post I didn’t describe our postino, an unsmiling fellow who refuses to acknowledge us when we meet on the street.  He’s one of those scooter-riders who always has a burning cigarette dangling from the side of his mouth; maybe that’s why he doesn’t smile.

(Um, no.  This is not a photo of our postino. Darn.)

In any event, he, like the other postini, delivers the mail by scooter.  Where a passenger might sit he has a large plastic bin into which the post has been put in delivery order.  While it seems that he doesn’t make the trip all the way up to our house every day, he does come in all kinds of weather.  We’ve seen him picking his careful way along the road, hunkered down against a driving rain.  So if it’s ‘neither sleet nor rain…’ that keeps our postino from his appointed rounds, what is it?  Whim? Lack of mail? Post Office scheduling? A mystery!

The Best Thing We Ate This Week – Louise’s Birthday Cake

13 Saturday Dec 2008

Posted by farfalle1 in Food, Uncategorized

≈ 3 Comments

Tags

birthday cake, mocha cake

With luck we each have a birthday every year.  As it happened, this year mine was Major (or so it seemed to me) so the Captain pulled out all the stops on the birthday cake.

I love chocolate, although probably not quite as much as the next person. A chocolate bar in the fridge is likely to be nibbled to death over time, but it will not disappear suddenly. My idea of perfect chocolate is rich, but in small doses, and preferably with something other than chocolate as a foil. This elaborate cake is just right in all regards.

The picture makes it look a little gloppy, and I guess it is – but it’s gloppy in the best sense of the word. It fills your mouth with flavor and your heart with gladness. I didn’t get around to taking the photo until it had been nearly all eaten, so it is not a beautiful picture. But it was a magnificent cake.

img_7374

The neighbors were nice enough to come over for a couple of hours and help us out – this is definitely NOT a cake for two people to try to eat: too rich, too much of it. Most of us washed it down with Prosecco, Italy’s answer to champagne. It’s a sweet, but not too sweet, wine with bubbles that keep desserts from being cloying. A sweet dessert wine would not be good with this cake I think – too much sweetness.

It’s not the easiest cake in the world to make, but it’s not complicated. It just takes a while. And it is one of the best cakes you will ever eat. You can find the recipe here, or over on the right under good recipes.

Buon appetito!

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D. Good Recipes - Best of the Week winners are starred

  • 'Mbriulata
  • *Baked Barley and Mushroom Casserole*
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  • *Crimson Pie*
  • *Louise’s Birthday Cake*
  • *Melanzane alla Parmigiana*
  • *Penne with Cabbage and Cream
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  • *Risotto alla Bolognese*
  • *Rolled Stuffed Pork Roast*
  • *Spezzatini di Vitello*
  • *Stuffed Grape Leaves*
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  • *Swordfish with Salsa Cruda*
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  • Bagna-calda
  • Best Brownies in the World
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  • Cold cucumber soup
  • Crispy Tortillas with Pork and Beans
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