Desert Camo

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Desert walks and hikes are always a joy, but I’ve always been surprised by how few animals we see when we’re out in the wild. For sure we can count on the gila woodpeckers and the cactus wren, but what about the larger and more exotic animals?

I have yet to see a bobcat, though I know they’re all over. The only javelina I’ve seen have been at a golf course, of all places. I would think I was in heaven if I caught a glimpse of a mountain lion, but as they can want as much as 200 square miles of territory, that’s unlikely to happen. Even the ubiquitous coyotes are far more visible in our neighborhood than out in the desert.

Why? Today the answer suddenly occurred to me – it’s not that the animals aren’t there, probably; it’s that we just don’t see them. They are masters of camouflage. What brought this to my attention was watching a roadrunner approach our house today. Here’s what he looks like:

Can’t see him? Don’t feel bad, I couldn’t either when I first looked at the picture. Maybe this will help:

It’s still hard to make out what this jokester looks like. Here’s another shot of him taken when he crossed the road. (Why did he cross the road, you ask? But you already know the answer!)

Amusing as they are in appearance, roadrunners are actually not very nice birds. They’re carnivores, and are quick enough to eat rattlesnakes (I’d love to see that show – but then, I’m still waiting to see a rattle snake in the desert, or a roadrunner in the desert, for that matter). What they do to their unwanted runt hatchlings is not a fit topic for a general interest blog.

So maybe it’s not that the animals aren’t there – it’s just that I’m not clever enough to see them.  For me it’s too bad they wear cloaks of invisibility; but for them it’s probably for the best.

Big America

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You’re probably sick and tired of hearing me talk about how big everything is in the U.S. compared to Italy. Well, it’s not just houses, cars and people. Meet George, a four-year old blue Great Dane with aspirations to become the Guinness Book of World Records title holder for World’s Tallest Dog. I think he’s got a good chance.  He’s even from Arizona!

Photo Courtesy Mail Online

George and Diane Nasser from Tucson knew that their 7-week-old Great Dane puppy would grow up to be a big dog, but according to news sources, they had No Idea just how big he would become. Here are a few of his stats: 7’3″ long from nose to tail tip; 42.625″ tall at the shoulder; weight 245 pounds. That’s a lotta pooch, with an appetite to match. George eats 110 pounds of dog food every month. You can learn more about this enormous canine here.

Photo Courtesy Daily Mail

The U.S.A.: Home of the Brave? Maybe – I hope so! – but definitely Home of the Big.

Dinner at Eight

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There are some differences in living habits between the US and Italy that are just plain hard to get used to. For us, coming back to the States for a while, it is very hard to get used to the fact that most people eat dinner at 6 o’clock, or earlier. There’s a restaurant down the street from us here, and when I drove by at 4:45 yesterday evening the parking lot was jammed with cars. Everyone was there for a 5 o’clock dinner (All You Can Eat Fish Fry on Wednesdays and Fridays – another concept that would be foreign and bizarre to an Italian restaurateur).

For us, 5 o’clock is the Hour of Tea, 6 o’clock is the Hour of Drink-n-Snack, 7 o’clock is the Hour of Dinner Preparation and 8 o’clock is the Dinner Hour. We’ve just gotten used to it that way, because that’s the dinner hour in Italy. In fact, away from the main tourist cities you would be hard pressed to find a restaurant that opens its doors before 8 p.m., or perhaps 7:30.

This eating schedule has a ripple effect. Last weekend my friend Margaret and I went to a play at the ASU Gammage Hall – the ‘darkly comic’ ‘August: Osage County‘ by Tracy Letts (it was great – we laughed and groaned). What time did it start? 7 p.m.! The week before the Captain and I went to a delightful John O’Conor piano recital down the street (glorious); it started at 7:30. That would never happen in Italy! When would one eat??!  Typically in Italy the cultural events are before dinner, starting at 4, 5, or even 6 p.m., or after dinner, starting at 9 or 9:30 p.m.

Why the difference?  I think (and this is pure conjecture on my part) that the early eating habits in Arizona are due to the fact that there are so many mid-western transplants here.  On a big mid-western farm you might get up with the sun and have a cup of coffee and a snack.  Then you might work for a few hours and stop mid-morning for an enormous breakfast.  Then you would work again until the sun got low (5 o’clock?) when it would be time for a hearty dinner.  Even though fewer and fewer people work on farms, I think the early eating habit has persisted.

In Italy the large meal was typically eaten mid-day with an hour or two of rest following.  Then work continued until the evening, when a much smaller meal (minestrone?) was eaten.  That is changing somewhat, especially in the large cities, as Italy becomes more an Office Culture.  But most stores and businesses are still closed mid-day and then are open again from 3:30 or 4 until 7:30 or 8, at which point it is time for dinner.

I don’t much care for the late night events any more, but it is delightful to go to a wonderful concert at 5 p.m., come out at 6:30 or 7, take a stroll through the town, find a good restaurant and sit down for a fine meal at 8 or so, a pleasure we miss when we’re in the U.S.

So, why the Dinner at Eight video above?  Well, the title is appropriate, and as a librarian I just couldn’t resist sharing Jean Harlow’s book review.  I bet everyone would like to be a member of her book club!

Bird Watching

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One of the great pleasures of being here in Arizona is putting up a bird feeder and watching the wild birds who come to visit.  This is not something we have seen done in Italy, and it seems a pity, because it is both interesting and amusing. Not that Italians aren’t bird fanciers (leaving out for the time being all the recipes for songbirds) – we have seen homing pigeons flying near our house, and many houses have a cages with parakeets, canaries, and others of that exotic ilk. In fact there is a pet store right in the center of the Rapallo; every fine day they put out cages of little birds which twitter and sing like mad, poor things. But the coaxing to the home of wild birds does not seem to have yet appealed to the Italian householder, at least not in Rapallo.

Of course this being America, bird-watching has become big business.  There are whole stores dedicated to the feeding and watching of birds (Wild Birds Unlimited, Bird Watcher Supply Company, Duncraft, and a zillion local stores).  In a similar, but less commercial vein, the National Audubon Society is dedicated to the preservation of wild birds and, by extension, their habitat. We buy bird seed in 50-pound sacks, usually black oil sunflower seed, because it appeals to so many different kinds of birds.

We have hung one small feeder from an ironwood tree off our deck, and have a small ‘bath’ from which the birds can drink.  The house finches, our most frequent guests, arrive in the greatest numbers, and they are terribly piggy.  We limit the birds to one feeder-full of seed a day, and it has usually been consumed within an hour of our putting it out, most all of it by the finches.

Second in number are the raucous gila woodpeckers.  They announce their arrival with a piercing call that is something between a caw and a woody-woodpecker laugh, accompanied by a great deal of head-bobbing.  After all that effort they extract one seed from the feeder and fly off to peck it open.  They are also extremely partial to the one other feeder we have installed: a hummingbird feeder, which is filled with sugar water (1 to 4 dilution).

Other birds we see frequently at the feeder include the curved bill thrasher, a lovely, shyer bird; and the cactus wren, which is Arizona’s state bird.

Eighteen species of hummingbirds call Arizona home, and happily some of them visit our nectar feeder every day.  They are a lot feistier than their diminutive size would suggest. They offer amazing exhibitions of aggressive battle flights as they try to lay claim to the big red ‘flower’ that never quits.

Because they are so greedy, the finches tend to be careless in their eating habits – they spray seed all over the place, most of which ends up on the ground under the feeder.  This is good news for the doves and Gambel’s quail who scrabble around in the dirt and eat all the spillage.

It’s hard to understand how there can be a Gambel’s quail left in the world – though it doesn’t show in the photo above, the male has a bullseye on his chest.  They all have a very funny little plume that jerks up and down as they run (they never walk).

Every now and then inviting birds to share your space can lead to unintended consequences.  The first year we came here we put up a Christmas tree, and, because it was very warm, we left the door open.  The result was festive, though not exactly what we had in mind.

Then there are the less cheerful consequences.  Italians aren’t the only ones who enjoy dining on songbirds.  Now and then an unwanted guest comes to our feeder.

Hawks come by regularly and scare off all the little birds.  They scatter in a great clatter of wings and every now and then one will fly into a window and hurt himself.  If a bird is just stunned, you can pick it up and hold it close in your hands, keeping it warm until it comes out of shock, as the Captain illustrates below.

This little fellow made a quick recovery, and with joy we took him outside and set him free.  He flew about twenty feet and then the hawk swooped down and plucked him out of the air and flew off with him.

It’s enough to make you believe in fate.

‘Mbriulata

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The holiday decorations have been put away for another year, the leftovers have been eaten (including ALL the cookies); now is the season of remorse.  But before embarking on the inevitable diet, let’s revisit one of the greatest holiday treats of all – ‘mbriulate (pronounced um-bree-you-lah’-tay), a cross between pastry and bread, laced with bits of pork, sea salt and heavily peppered.  It is one of those things of which you say to yourself, ‘Oh, I’ll just try one little bite,’ and half an hour later realize that you’ve eaten a whole turban.  It’s impossible to stop!

The Captain’s family is Sicilian, and he learned to make this dish from his mother many years ago.  It is a dish which is found in the Sicilian province of Agrigento and has, most probably, Roman origins. The only other people we know personally who make it are his cousins, who have an interesting variation I’ll tell you about later.  What does ‘mbriulata mean?  We don’t really know, although the cousins surmise it may come from the word ‘miscuglio’ – a mix, a confusion of things, or perhaps from the Italian word ‘imbrogliata,’ a muddle.

Be warned: you will not find this in the AMA guide to heart-healthy eating. But for a special occasion you can not do better than start the meal with ‘mbriulate, either with your drinks beforehand or after you’ve moved to table – and you always want it in the plural. One ‘mbriulata might satisfy a lonely solo reveler, but no more than that.

The Captain’s recipe is simplicity itself, calling only for a filling of pork, Crisco, salt and pepper.  The cousin’s recipe eschews the Crisco (which doesn’t exist in Italy) and adds onions, pitted black olives and bits of cheese.

You can find the recipe for both variations here.

Olive Oil

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Olive Oyl/King Features

We didn’t have a TV when I was growing up (I know! but it’s true!!).  But my best friend Taffy had one, as did other friends, so somehow stray bits and pieces of TV-lands-and-people crept into my brain.  One of these was Popeye and his interestingly shaped girlfriend Olive Oyl.

In fact, I knew this crowd pretty well from the daily comic strip in the North Adams Transcript (Popeye first appeared way back in 1929, and King Features still presents the strip, the creation of Elzie Crisler Segar. Interestingly, Robin Williams’ first movie role was in the 1980 film adaptation (Jules Feiffer, Robert Altman) of the cartoon). I never cared much for Popeye.  Unable to see the kind, generous and lovable character behind his ‘coarse’ speech and fightin’ ways, I avoided him and his cronies (Wimpy, arch-rival Bluto, etc.) for the more mundane Peanuts and Archie.  Talk about Wimpy!

As far as I knew back in those days, olive oil was a misspelled character; we didn’t know anything about olive oil in the mid- to late-20th century New England kitchen, and we certainly didn’t have any in the cupboard.  That all changed sometime in the latter part of the century as Mediterranean cuisine became popular in the States, both for its deliciousness and for its health benefits.  In fact, worldwide consumption of olive oil grew substantially, from 1,779,000 MT in 1990 to 2,553,000 in 2005. Suddenly restaurants were offering little saucers of oil for dipping bread, and connoisseurs were comparing flavors and production methodologies.  Olive oil became a low-key cooking and eating craze. (If you’d like to read an account of our own olive harvest, click here and here.)

Hirts Gardens photo

Italians have been cooking with and consuming olive oil from the year dot. Perhaps it is just their good fortune that natural circumstances gave them a fat product from a tree rather than from a cow. 1 tablespoon of butter contains 12 grams of fat, 8 of which are saturated (bad!) and it has 33 mg of cholesterol; 1 tablespoon of olive oil contains 14 grams of fat, only 2 of which are saturated, and it has no cholesterol at all.  In addition, olive oil contains antioxidenats, beta-caratene and vitamin E.  AND it tastes great and makes everything else taste great too.

Imagine our surprise when we received the wonderful Puritan’s Pride catalog the other day, and discovered that you can now buy olive oil in softgels.  Why on earth would you want to when you can buy a lot of olive oil in a bottle and have the pleasure of consuming it on salads and in sauces?  Pills??  Only, I think, in America! Then consider the economics of the thing.  You can get 300 60-mg softgels of olive oil (just writing it makes me shake my head) for $21.98.  That’s 10 ounces of olive oil for $21.98 – kind of pricey, if you ask me.  In fairness, the same catalog offers a 16 ounce bottle of cold-pressed organic extra-virgin olive oil for $9.63, as well as an olive leaf complex.

photo from China Suppliers.com

It makes me think of all the Futurama stuff we read about when we were kids watching Popeye – we would all zip around with personal jet-packs, and we wouldn’t have to eat food anymore because we’d be getting all our nutrients from pills. What a horrid thought that is! My advice? When in Rome, or anywhere else for that matter, do as the Romans – use lots of olive oil, but use it from a bottle, not from a softgel!

(More info on olive growing and harvesting here and here, and a photo album of the harvest and pressing here.)

Merry Christmas from Arizona

I love driving around and looking at people’s Christmas decorations.  Being far too lazy to do much myself, I am in awe of the amount of work and the imagination that some people confer on their houses at this season. After having seen djmick’s photos of 112 over-the-top houses, Apache Junction seems pretty tame, but here is my tribute to local lights (which are difficult to photograph).  My very favorite decoration is the last one in the series below, executed by our neighbors from New Hampshire, but it is not effective at night.

If you live in the Phoenix area and you love lights, too, you might enjoy a trip to the Zoo for the annual Zoo Lights show… or take a virtual tour by clicking the link.

Expatriate wishes you all a Jolly Holiday Season and a Happy New Year..

Trees on the median strip in a development

Angels at the gate

Christmas tree with presents and deer

Creche scene in an entryway

Porpoises swim at the far left!

Star/cross with angels or shepards or kings

Ocotillo and Santa

This really is someone's enormous house!

I bet they did this veeerrrrry carefully...

Security Level: Orange!

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The Scream by Edvard Munch

Last week I visited a large department store in nearby Mesa, Arizona.  I strolled through the gentleman’s department, hoping to find a Christmas present for my brother-in-law, but I had no luck.  There were plenty of gifts for men, but they all seemed to be packaged in leather boxes and to cost a trillion dollars – just not appropriate for giver or givee.

One of the gift items was what I imagine was called an Executive Tool Kit.  It was a large leather case containing a wide assortment of shiny new tools: wrenches, screw drivers, sockets, and so forth.  A young couple was examining it in passing, and the young man picked up the largest wrench from the case and said, “I can’t believe they just leave this stuff out like this.”  I thought to myself, ‘neither can I; someone might steal it.’  But that wasn’t his point.  He continued, “A terrorist might come along and take this, and then what might happen?.”

Huh?  A terrorist in Dillards in downtown Mesa?  And then what?  Take a salesclerk hostage?  Well, I suppose it could happen, and I certainly can’t make light of potential terrorist threats to the U.S.  But isn’t it sad that an able-bodied young man would look at a set of tools that he should covet, and instead worry about terrorists?  I sense a general low-level fear here in the States – fear of the future, fear for the economy, fear of terrorists, fear of strangers.  It is disquieting and disheartening and more than a little disturbing…

Take My Car – Please! or… Let’s Buy a Car, Part 2

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M needed a new car, and she needed one soon.  An unfortunate woman suffering from a diabetic induced moment of attention deficit had run into the side of M’s car, totaling it.  The woman had driven on, oblivious to the accident and the damage she had caused.  It sounds impossible, but that’s what happened.  Lucikily neither M nor the woman was hurt, and within an hour the police had found the ill woman and gotten her off the highway, but it was too late for M, or, more specifically, it was too late for M’s 15-year old Toyota.  The old girl was dead.

M depends upon an auto for her work; fortunately her insurance company paid for a rental car.  But they were growing restive; it had been a week or two… when was M going to buy a new car?  In a sort of twisted, modern Catch-22 M was too busy working to go car-shopping, but had to go car shopping if she wished to continue working.  What to do?

As it happened she was visiting another friend in Vermont for a rare mid-week holiday, and so was I.  The Vermont friend, H, and her husband had just bought a new Honda, the 4th or 5th they’d purchased from the same dealer, whom they hold in extremely high regard.  Nothing would do but that M should look for a new car at that dealer.

So she did.  The Honda dealer was a nice young chap, and he had a car that would suit M, and he was willing to deal.  He’d met his match in M, I think.

They wheeled and dealed (oh ha ha); M had the high ground because she has always driven Toyotas and was perfectly willing to go back where she lives and buy a Toyota there.  Poor Dealer!  He could see his sale slipping away, in spite of the fact that M had enjoyed her test drive (yes, she got to have a test drive, in the actual car and on real roads.  Lucky M).

“Take the car home for the rest of the day and tonight,” he said.  I couldn’t believe my ears.  What??  Take the car home??!  But that is what he really said.  This was on a Thursday. “Well, alright,” replied M, “but you understand, if I buy this car I have to be able to drive it out of here tomorrow all registered, insured and with a loan in place, a favorable loan.”  “No problem, no problem,” Dealer answered.

So she did.  She took the car and she and I drove the 15 or 20 miles back to H’s house.  M had said she’d return it the next morning, but we slept late and got busy doing other things.  Did the police come looking for us?  They did not.  Instead we were warmly welcomed when we returned to Dealer in the early afternoon (there was, perhaps, just a touch of relief in his eyes when he saw us stroll in).

The end of the story is that M drove away a few hours later in what was now her car, Dealer having also arranged for the return of her rental car at a nearby branch of the rental agency.  Well, okay, it turned out there were a few snags in the weeks that followed, having to do with buying a car in one state and living in another, but Dealer did what he had to do to fix them.

Maybe it has something to do with the economy, but it’s more than that: American car dealers seem much more eager to sell cars than their Italian counterparts, and will do, it would seem, just about anything to succeed.  Including letting someone test-borrow the car for 24 hours.  I just can’t imagine that happening in Liguria, where, if you are very good the dealer will do you an enormous favor and sell you a car.

Let’s Buy a Car!!

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Photo from NissanBlog - thanks!

A few years ago the Captain and I were shopping for an automobile in Italy.  We had bought an aged Peugeout 106 when we first immigrated, and had pretty well beaten it up. We were aching for something that seemed a little more stylish and had a lot more speed.  The Captain has always driven a sports car; it’s one of his Rules.  Being a tall person, I’ve never been in love with squat little two-seaters.  I find them hard to get in and out of, and once in, it’s not always easy to see what’s going on outside your cozy little cockpit.

We looked at every dealer we could find in Chiavari; we looked at Fiats, we looked at Peugeouts, you name it, we looked at it.  Finally we looked at the Nissan Micra and I lost my heart.  This lovely car has the rounded shape I have always defined as ‘cute,’  perhaps even ‘darling,’ certainly ‘irresistable.’  In addition it had some nifty features – a front passenger seat that lifted up for sneaky hidden storage, a key that magically opened the door without having to be inserted in the lock.  It was a dream.  AND, the Captain was willing to compromise on the usual sports car because we sometimes have guests in Italy, and without an unsightly roof rack there is no way to transport either guests or their luggage in a two-seater.

When I say we ‘saw’ all these cars, I am really attacking the issue at its heart.  We saw them; we did not drive them.  We were not invited to drive them.  The Peugeot dealer took us out for a spin, but he insisted on driving.  This concept of look-but-don’t-test-drive was quite foreign to us.  On the other hand, we could see the logic of it given the narrowness of the roads and the nuttiness of some of the people who are navigating them. Still, it left us feeling a bit as if we were buying a pig in a poke.

Nonetheless, a Micra it was to be.  Only problem was, we wanted one right away as we had an actual guest arriving, and there was a road-trip planned, and the old Peugeot 106 was behaving erratically. The Chiavari dealer could not oblige.  The Captain called a dealer he knew in Piemonte who said he could have one for us the next day and the deal was struck over the phone.

Photo courtesy of channel4.com

Ten minutes after he hung up the phone a friend called to inform us that after making us wait for acouple of years, he had decided that yes, he wanted to sell us hisMini Cooper S.  Synchronicity at its worst!

My dream car went the way of all dreams, evaporating in the mist. The Piemonte dealer was gracious and understanding (who would want a Micra if he could have a Mini? that was his reasoning), and the road trip was made in the almost-new Mini.  Getting the darn thing registered in Italy was an amazing and complicated feat, involving a trip to Monaco which had issued the plates (which weren’t really plates, but stickers)… but that’s a story for another day.

Also for another day is the comparison of our car-buying experience with the experience I shared with my friend M several weeks ago as she shopped for a new car in the U.S…. stay tuned.